lumberjack
Young man on the go
(Referencing the top left picture)
It looks like there's water around it? Is clean up an issue or can you dump the trees (looks like 2) the tree will hit as it first starts going right?
Assuming the other two trees can be felled I'd set a sturdy rope on the twisted tree setting up to pull to the right somewhere around the 2 trees that it's propped against.
Then face the 2 prop trees to to the right along the arc the twisted tree will follow to the ground and pretension the rope to as much as it's set up to handle.
Then I'd start at the back left helix of the twisted tree and start nipping it towards the right. Assuming all is going well as it went further and further to the right, I'd make a top cut that intersected the first kerf keeping the saw from getting pinched. I'd keep going right until I got to my "corner" if I was cutting a notch to follow the other 2 trees arc. Then come back and start nipping the front left headed right until it goes over, cutting for clearance as needed. I'd use a 36" bar on a 440/460 to keep me as far back as reasonable.
That's my 2 cents. I've never had to fell a twisted tree like that, but I've used this method on similarly splinted/shook and sized oaks that always seem to be loaded heavily due to lean or part of the canopy breaking off.
It looks like there's water around it? Is clean up an issue or can you dump the trees (looks like 2) the tree will hit as it first starts going right?
Assuming the other two trees can be felled I'd set a sturdy rope on the twisted tree setting up to pull to the right somewhere around the 2 trees that it's propped against.
Then face the 2 prop trees to to the right along the arc the twisted tree will follow to the ground and pretension the rope to as much as it's set up to handle.
Then I'd start at the back left helix of the twisted tree and start nipping it towards the right. Assuming all is going well as it went further and further to the right, I'd make a top cut that intersected the first kerf keeping the saw from getting pinched. I'd keep going right until I got to my "corner" if I was cutting a notch to follow the other 2 trees arc. Then come back and start nipping the front left headed right until it goes over, cutting for clearance as needed. I'd use a 36" bar on a 440/460 to keep me as far back as reasonable.
That's my 2 cents. I've never had to fell a twisted tree like that, but I've used this method on similarly splinted/shook and sized oaks that always seem to be loaded heavily due to lean or part of the canopy breaking off.