SRT techniques for beginners

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Ryan,
The Hitchhiker II with holster style HUT, including a new accessory ‘biner, two new hitch cords, and a new buff is packaged and ready to go out in the mail tomorrow. I cut a length of old climb line and assembled the HH II on it using a Michoacán hitch.
Low and slow till you dial it in. Be safe up there.
Very nice, except for the friction hitch suggestion. A true Michoacán has the legs coming out the sides, and they shift to the back when tied on the dog bone. This pulls the dogbone more straight up, instead of into the rope, with the carabiner making more of the friction.
 
Had a much anticipated package arrive today. Excellent! Thanks again to Pat for being so generous. It's frigging cold here, but if I get cabin fever I'll get outside to try it out. Although the picture is deceiving, the yellow cord is a smaller diameter than I've ever had or seen. Is there anything to consider if I were to climb on it with the RW or DRT? I'm going to stick with what @pigwot preloaded with the HH and see how it gets along with my current lifeline.
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Had a much anticipated package arrive today. Excellent! Thanks again to Pat for being so generous. It's frigging cold here, but if I get cabin fever I'll get outside to try it out. Although the picture is deceiving, the yellow cord is a smaller diameter than I've ever had or seen. Is there anything to consider if I were to climb on it with the RW or DRT? I'm going to stick with what @pigwot preloaded with the HH and see how it gets along with my current lifeline.
View attachment 135242

The yellow cord is likely a Sterling RIT 8mm (versus RIT Resonse in 9mm).
 
No real concerns regarding the cord. It's just a matter of whether it'll work well for you or not. It could bind up too tight if your carrier rope is on the thick side. A starting point is keeping your prusik 80% the size of the climbline. You can adjust from there if it doesn't do quite what you want. RIT's pretty good cord.

edit:
Here's a link to the HitchHikerXF manual...


It's a different device, but the core principles are the same. You might find it useful.
 
I didn't recognize the stopper knots Pat tied but through John's Pdf user manual, I learned it's a Stevedore stopper knot. Learning new things!
The Stevedore is much secure than the double overhand/double Fisherman because it doesn't pull out as easily. With the latter, you can force it to collapse by just pulling on the knot. The Stevedore is resistant to collapse because of how it bights around the tail perpendicularly to the wraps.
 
The yellow and black cord you got is described in the climbing innovations website:

MARLOW BOA CORD​

  • 9 mm Marlow Boa has a hard wearing 16 plait Polyester cover with a braided Polyester core.
  • CE approved
  • Prussik
  • Good strength Balances economy and performance Good abrasion resistance Flexible & easily handled Easy knotability
  • Not for high temperature or rapid descents.
  • Breaking Load 21 kN
 
It's pretty good cord. I downgraded mine for rigging, cause I needed a quick prusik once, that was easily at hand. It's also on the thick side, and isn't ideal for the skinny rope I've been using. It's on the 'acceptable' list though if I'm shopping for thicker cord.
 
Hard to see in the pic, but it doesn't look terrible. Good visibility, and that's what important. My vote for ugliest rope is Arbormaster BRW. I *really* don't like the way it looks, but visibility is good, and the build is great. They have(had) better colors though. Arbormaster got delisted, and it's now arborfreak. Danube and pine are good colors.

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Ryan, tie your hitch as close and tight (within reason) to the top of the HH as you can for minimum 'sit back' before you weight it.
The brief view we have of it at the beginning of your video, there is way too much distance between the top of the HH and the first wrap of your hitch before you've put any weight on it.
 
I bend my rope to get the hitch tighter. The knot tightens under body weight, developing slack in the hitch. A couple feet of ups and downs help get the hitch set and balanced.

Rarely do I take my HH off my rope. Instead, I just leave it where it is in the rope unless I know what I'm climbing next, so know where I'll need it on the rope.

Just me.
 
Yea, I "overtighten" the hitch so once it's weighted, it's hopefully pretty close to right. I overtightened a French prusik once. I was hoping it would slacken, but never did. I brute forced my way into the tree, but I had to retie it once I got up there. It took probably 65% of what I had just to ascend the rope :^D

I retie every time. I don't leave my gear on the rope.
 
Hard to see in the pic, but it doesn't look terrible. Good visibility, and that's what important. My vote for ugliest rope is Arbormaster BRW. I *really* don't like the way it looks, but visibility is good, and the build is great. They have(had) better colors though. Arbormaster got delisted, and it's now arborfreak. Danube and pine are good colors.

View attachment 135941
Haha that's the stuff Monkey Beaver uses for bridges! I don't care for it anymore than you do I think, but I've got a kink for green... it's certianly strong enough for the task. When I re-tied the stopper knots it had decent hand.

Dunno about you guys, but I don't much like trusting my life to someone else's knots, maybe I'm weird.

@Ryan please keep posting your progress. I am deeply enjoying your success, it's good to see. Climb High, Be Safe.
 
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