Saw storage

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sotc

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How do you guys store your saws in the shop? Too many laying around my shop cluttering the place up, just looking for a way to keep them more efficiently but still readily available.
 
My old barn i installed a cedar log post. Bore cut through and leave the bar in the cut. Looks cool and keeps them off the ground. Holds a ton of saws too. Will prob do the same on my next building. Right now they live in fort knox, aka bucket truck boxes the previous owner did a fabulous job on.
 
I made a book case/shelf affair to put in an exhibition. Nobody was interested in buying it, so now it holds most of my saws. Kind of has a lot of oil on it.
 
Commercial shelving units is what I went with. Got about 10 of these on 3 walls. 4 x 4 x 2

The 2 section

 
my saws are kept in the tool box mostly, but sometimes on the floor of the shop. I intend to put them in to a log as stated above. I guy I used to work for did that and it worked pretty well. at the shop of a guy I do a lot of work for now, he's got some big shelves we put his saws on. one shelf for broken saws, one for saws that need sharpening or small ajustments, and one for good saws.
 
Concrete floors, I've heard, can eat at the casings of a chainsaw. That might be good for some home owners to know, but a treeman don't let his saws set for very long.

Now, one time I stowed our saws in the bin of the work truck. They sat for the weekend and when I came back on Monday the cases were half eaten through by electrolysis. It happened because of fish slime and salt water between the aluminum and steel box. And that came from a day of surf fishing on the way home from a job, and I stowed the bucket of fish in the truck. When we arrived at the shop I took the bucket of surf fish out, but the key ingredients where still there in the box. Long story short, don't stow your saw in a mixture of saltwater, fish slime and steel. at the rate it was going the electrolysis could have eaten all the way through the cases in less than a week.

What an odd learning experience that was.
 
Some micesters consumed much of the handle on a small Husky saw that never got used and sat on the floor in a dark corner. Seems odd that they would like eating that plastic or whatever it is. I believe that they were ingesting it, no debris on the floor.
 
I have them on shelves in the shed .

The concrete thing has to with the fact that one component of portland cement is alumina which comes from blue clay .It has a tendency to absorb aluminum components .One reason for example why you cannot use aluminum conduit in a concrete pour such as a floor or wall .

If you take notice as a another example of how an older aluminum screen door deteriates if in contact with concrete that's exactly what it does to a saw. Aluminum is known as a sacrificing metal.
 
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This is what I'm going with for now. Just hate taking up shelf space. I like the post idea, just need to find the right size and length log that I could attach to the joists
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I have them on shelves in the shed .

The concrete thing has to with the fact that one component of portland cement is alumina which comes from blue clay .It has a tendency to absorb aluminum components .One reason for example why you cannot use aluminum conduit in a concrete pour such as a floor or wall .

If you take notice as a another example of how an older aluminum screen door deteriates if in contact with concrete that's exactly what it does to a saw. Aluminum is known as a sacrificing metal.
How long does it take to do noticeable damage to something? years?
 
I cut a sheet of plywood and made up 6 simple scabbards and mounted that to the barn wall. Also made up a partitioned box for the back of the truck to hold the three main go-to saws.
 
Seems to me that two stout posts (maybe 1-2 inches diameter, 6 inches long) could be mounted perpendicular to a wall, offset them a few inches (one maybe 3 inches lower than the other)...how far apart is determined by bar length. Then put bar tip under one and over the other. I have not tried it but....
 

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I think the saw would flip sideway. Maybe if there was also an inverted L bracket that overhung the bar to keep it from tipping sideway.

NO! Better idea! Make the pegs 3" in diameter, and have a 1" groove in each peg (or the top on at least) and that would keep the saw steady...
 
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Could be a good way to use a corner Gary. Definitely need grooses Nick suggested but I would put the groove on the powerhead side or both sides
 
Finally some good pictures. I like the square cases...have not seen those before. The "tailored to fit" ones from Stihl are hard to stack/pack.
 
Saw this setup on Kijiji the other day. Could have it a little lower or angle the saws so they are easier put in and out. Still takes up wall space.

$_20.JPG
 
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