Reddog
TreeHouser
Ed did you make your own bar adapter or purchase one?
Ed did you make your own bar adapter or purchase one?
Ed L
Treehouser
Just bought the one from Baileys. I didn't buy it for everyday use, only when I really needed to swap a bar out.
They aren't a turn key thing, the adjuster hole needs to be opend up on the bar, also a pita to get the chain on, I'll get a few pics this afternoon.
Ed
They aren't a turn key thing, the adjuster hole needs to be opend up on the bar, also a pita to get the chain on, I'll get a few pics this afternoon.
Ed
HolmenTree
Banned
What ever DL # is stamped on the bar is the size of chain loop you'd use. Works either way on the Husky or Stihl.
I remember years ago when I ran a Jonsered 630, it had 60 DL on the 16" b/c. The faller next to me was using the same saw but in the orange version [Husqvarna 61] his 16" b/c was 62 DL. The Husky bar was just 2 DL longer.
When I worked for Stihl in 1989 I did a chain field test on the then prototype 33RS with the "then new" ramped depth gauge what we use today. I was passing out loops of chain to fallers at a logging camp and along with the loop they get a guide bar. Of course some fallers were running Husqvarnas so I had to give them a adapter to fit the Stihl bar on their saw.
Here's a pic of a couple of them I have. These are Stihl made adapter clips designed to put a Stihl bar on a smaller stud mount like the Husqvarna for example. I got a bag of 10 somewhere in my shop with the Stihl part # on the label. If I find it I'll report later.
Magnus
TreeHouser
That actually look like it could work very well. I need to try that.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
What's that? A miniature CRT monitor? Ha.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Myself and others have made bar adapters to use Stihl mounts on other saws .They are in essence just thick washer like pieces of metal to simulate the bar mounting bosses that Stihl uses .The saw in my avater is one example .
Now usually you can get them to work with perhaps just some adjusting of perhaps the bar tightening hole and oil hole .Some of course are easier to adapt than others .
I could ramble on about it for hours .Some mount sizes like for example 10 series Mac mount will work slick as a whistle on Husqvarna and some will not without some alteration .I can't remember what actually fits what .The only thing I can say is you just have to try it .
I can say this on the subject from my perspective .Stihl mount bar sizes are much easier to adapt then most others .In addition they are more readily available .
Now usually you can get them to work with perhaps just some adjusting of perhaps the bar tightening hole and oil hole .Some of course are easier to adapt than others .
I could ramble on about it for hours .Some mount sizes like for example 10 series Mac mount will work slick as a whistle on Husqvarna and some will not without some alteration .I can't remember what actually fits what .The only thing I can say is you just have to try it .
I can say this on the subject from my perspective .Stihl mount bar sizes are much easier to adapt then most others .In addition they are more readily available .
Ed L
Treehouser
Messed around with the bar adapter last night, this is the one Balieys sells. Used my 2171 J-red for this.
Adapter on saw.
The adjuster holes in the bar need to be drilled out slightly, I only did one, its not often I use the adapter.
Chain is to short to put on like usual, you have to angle the bar to do it.
Once on, plenty of adjustment.....
Standard loops for 20" & 24" work fine, for grins, I tried a 36" bar, no go, the Stihl chain needs to be longer.
Ed
Adapter on saw.
The adjuster holes in the bar need to be drilled out slightly, I only did one, its not often I use the adapter.
Chain is to short to put on like usual, you have to angle the bar to do it.
Once on, plenty of adjustment.....
Standard loops for 20" & 24" work fine, for grins, I tried a 36" bar, no go, the Stihl chain needs to be longer.
Ed
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
This is a shot of the big Homelite with the adaptor on the bar stud .Takes an 066 style bar mount .
Often the distance of the placement of the bar studs to the drive systems can vary from saw to saw making it a challange to retro fit a bar and chain combination using the original driver count .For example both the big Homey and the big Macs used 8 tooth .404 rims this will work on the Homey but the Macs takes a 7 tooth ,8 will not work .
It's not just on old classics you run into this problem I might add .
Often the distance of the placement of the bar studs to the drive systems can vary from saw to saw making it a challange to retro fit a bar and chain combination using the original driver count .For example both the big Homey and the big Macs used 8 tooth .404 rims this will work on the Homey but the Macs takes a 7 tooth ,8 will not work .
It's not just on old classics you run into this problem I might add .
Attachments
HolmenTree
Banned
No Butch its a Yamaha YST-MS 28 multi media speaker. Also have 2 L & R smaller speakers that couple with it. Amazing sound system.
greatoutdoors
TreeHouser
I like the look of that. Wouldn't mess with any adjustment holes and what not. I had a bailey's one, but gave it away with a saw I sold.
P
PolarBear
Guest
I run stihl bars on some of my Huskys, stihl bar and stihl chain is the best IMO as far as quality
S
SydTreeguy
Guest
I've tried quite a few different bars and chains and keep coming back to stihl for both. Carlton chain isn't far behind, but the witness marks on the top of the cutters are nice on the stihl and they are slightly longer lasting.
ES bars are hard to beat. Tsumuras are ok but no cheaper. Carlton bars are a bit soft in my opinion. I've never run a cannon but they look nice and get lots of good reviews. On my smaller saws I only run stihl - 12", 14", 16", 18". At 20" I've tried most types and still go back to stihl. The 25" ES is really pretty heavy and not that nice but it is durable.
I've just picked up a couple lite bars and I'm trying them out. The 28" ES lite is pretty awesome. Way better balance than the 25" ES, near perect balance on an 044. Very nice to run all day. Perfect ballance on a 660. I also got a 36" ES lite to replace a worn out carlton. It's not significantly lighter or better balanced than the carlton which is a little disappointing. I've heard the 32" ES lite is a nice match for a 660. No idea yet what the life will be, but I really like the feel of the 28.
I run a residential tree service so it takes me a while to get through a bar.
Shaun
ES bars are hard to beat. Tsumuras are ok but no cheaper. Carlton bars are a bit soft in my opinion. I've never run a cannon but they look nice and get lots of good reviews. On my smaller saws I only run stihl - 12", 14", 16", 18". At 20" I've tried most types and still go back to stihl. The 25" ES is really pretty heavy and not that nice but it is durable.
I've just picked up a couple lite bars and I'm trying them out. The 28" ES lite is pretty awesome. Way better balance than the 25" ES, near perect balance on an 044. Very nice to run all day. Perfect ballance on a 660. I also got a 36" ES lite to replace a worn out carlton. It's not significantly lighter or better balanced than the carlton which is a little disappointing. I've heard the 32" ES lite is a nice match for a 660. No idea yet what the life will be, but I really like the feel of the 28.
I run a residential tree service so it takes me a while to get through a bar.
Shaun
Cut4fun
Redneck Chainsaw Repair
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,635
On Carlton Bars.
Bare metal half moon style tip manufactured by Tsumura.
Bare metal single rivet tip is solid made in Germany.
Painted bars like Carlton Pro Champ bars are manufactured by GB
Carlton Bush Champ Taiwan
I think the newer Carlton speed tips and powermatch etc is the Windsor speed tips and Oregon PM replacements. Anyone know for sure?
Bare metal half moon style tip manufactured by Tsumura.
Bare metal single rivet tip is solid made in Germany.
Painted bars like Carlton Pro Champ bars are manufactured by GB
Carlton Bush Champ Taiwan
I think the newer Carlton speed tips and powermatch etc is the Windsor speed tips and Oregon PM replacements. Anyone know for sure?
Magnus
TreeHouser
Lots of manufacturers make bars for Blount.
Some Carlton "Power Match" bars is made here by Iggesund.
Some Carlton "Power Match" bars is made here by Iggesund.
Magnus
TreeHouser
What did you get, Stig? Any solid bars?
The laminated bars is a tad better than what Husqvarna sell here, if that say's anything...
They only sell solid bars thru dealers, I think.
The laminated bars is a tad better than what Husqvarna sell here, if that say's anything...
They only sell solid bars thru dealers, I think.
Magnus
TreeHouser
There is a bit more to think of than just the hardness of the rail. It is a combo between all metal that interact.
Rim/sprocket, Bar and chain all need to "fit". If one is softer or harder it effect the others.
I seen tiestraps that been worn down, completely on new chains after first filing.
Chain should be hardest in the combo, the rim next and bar softer. Much easier to dress the bar than correct shape on tiestraps.
Rim/sprocket, Bar and chain all need to "fit". If one is softer or harder it effect the others.
I seen tiestraps that been worn down, completely on new chains after first filing.
Chain should be hardest in the combo, the rim next and bar softer. Much easier to dress the bar than correct shape on tiestraps.
HolmenTree
Banned
Very true Magnus. With todays throw away society not alot of maintenance is expected. I haven't noticed any decline in my Oregon bars. Now the Carlton branded powermatch bar made in Germany [whatever it is] was probably the least desireable.
Chainsaw operators have to realize the sawchain has to be keep sharp the best they are capable of doing. Every 8 hours of cutting the bar has to be removed and the bar rail slot and oil hole have to be cleaned with a bar cleaning hook. Then the bar has to be flipped over to help it wear evenly. Every 24 hours the bar rail edges should be checked for "wire edge rollover", if there is any it has to be lightly filed off. If there is any warp in the bar it should be hammered flat on a anvil.
When the rim sprocket is worn down to its witness marks then the rim has to be changed.
A little maintenance goes a heck of a long ways.
Solids.
Got them from Bailey's about 2 years ago. Nice bars, but soft.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Just finally threw one of the soft ones out. Lasted several months of Robs abuse. Ended up dishing out right behind the replaceable sprocket nose on one side. Probably would have got more out of it if, he actually flipped the bar, sharpened the chain, cleaned the groove and dressed the rails proper. So there ya go. Exactly why I bought them... Disposable and keeps my temper down.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Really?! You got Iggesund bars from Baily's? Globetrotter bars!
They traveled quite a bit those bars...
HolmenTree
Banned
Stephen. I think you're talking about those 2-3 year old Bailey's Oregon- Carlton powermatch bars with Carlton in big black letters with a clear coat polished finish. It was stamped with made in Germany.
The bar appeared to be too wide for the replaceable nose so they ground the rails down to match the nose, ground down roughly too as a matter of fact.
The uneven dip in both sides at the bar / nose joint probably lost some of the hardening process at that point of the rails that were originally installed.
That's why they were sold off at a low price.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Some bars...
Iggesund solid bars.
Iggesund solid bars.
Magnus
TreeHouser
The ones in lower pic i put up is a couple years old, perhaps more.
First out, before they started selling them. Some dealers here got a couple to test.
The black ones I have a couple out that are being tested.
First out, before they started selling them. Some dealers here got a couple to test.
The black ones I have a couple out that are being tested.
