Pruning advice - New Tree

[dthompson1372]

I’m new here and spent a good amount of time researching prior to asking so I apologize if this has already been asked...

I purchased an Autumn Blaze Red Maple last month and planted it in the front yard. It’s the first tree I’ve ever planted. I’ve noticed there are two branches at the bottom that are VERY long compared to the rest of the tree. Going up the trunk, there are a few shorter branches in the middle followed by a bunch of short branches at the top (see picture). Should I trim the two long branches at the bottom so that it grows equally? If so, do I just trim them or cut them completely off? I’m worried the next storm will cause them to break off.

Any advice?

<a href="https://ibb.co/yqhCnbX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ZxHr6kV/91042-C46-310-A-4-DCE-AAAA-BA3-C4-F2-AEA88.jpg" alt="91042-C46-310-A-4-DCE-AAAA-BA3-C4-F2-AEA88" border="0"></a>

 

[vharrison]

Welcome to the forum DT, someone will chime in shortly!

 

[DMc]

Trim the long branch pictured to match the others, so the outer canopy looks even. You want to leave as much photosynthetic material on as possible but not something that will snap off in a storm. Also, loosen those ties. The tree needs to move when the wind blows, just not blow over. Trees grow in response to stimulation. Moving in the wind will give it a stronger trunk and root system.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I would trim first, but I wouldn't be shy about removing that limb completely. I might even try bending it up into the tree!

Welcome to the TreeHouse, DT!

 

[dthompson1372]

Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and removed them as there’s about 8 other shorter branches sprouting in that general area. Based on what I’ve been reading on various sites, it’s a good idea to remove any branches that are half the thickness of the trunk as they will compete for nutrients, etc the first few years. As for the straps, I’ll loosen them. What you said makes sense! We had some big storms (tornadoes) coming through the area and I was worried about it getting knocked over so I made them tight.

 

[MasterBlaster]

What am I seeing shiny in the mulch bed? Like it's still in a bucket... can't be that, right?

 

[Mellow]

I think it's one of those plastic borders to retain the mulch.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I was hoping! I'd extend the mulch bed 10" or a foot...

 

[Mellow]

Yes, bigger is better for mulch beds. And hopefully the roots won't find their way into that sewer line.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Shoot, then it would take off like a rocket!!!

 

[dthompson1372]

Yes it’s one of those plastic mulch retainers. I plan on extending the mulch next Spring when I mulch around the rest of the house. This isn’t our forever home. Hopefully by the time it gets that big we’ll be moved to the country!

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[SeanKroll]

Root-collar needs to be at or above the local grade.


Wherever you want roots to grow, smother the grass, and mulch it. Mucho bigger. Gap of mulch at the trunk. Avoid Stem-girdling roots.



I'd put two stakes on either side of the tree, out of the root zone, and loosely tie-up the tree with two mostly-horizontal bands at 2/3-3/4 height. Prevent excess movement, encourage movement, aside from tornadoes...too much movement.



Everyone one of those branches are temporary branches...won't be part of what you will establish as juvenile structure, and into mature structure.

Avoid co-dominant trunks and tight forks, as you can.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I'd remove the grass over smothering it.

 

[SeanKroll]

Being that its freshly planted, I agree with you Butch, to remove the grass. Especially since, upon further looking at the picture, its planted in a hole that is too narrow.

It's time for a fresh start.

Bare-root planting is best.

Its heating up. Must have moist soil. Not the ideal time to install trees, but as long as you maintain the moisture, you're ok.




www.treesaregood.org/treeowner

http://www.treesaregood.org/portals/0/docs/treecare/New_TreePlanting.pdf

 

[dthompson1372]

Thank you! A bunch of good information here. I wish I would have known all of this before planting.

 

[Bermy]

All good advice...I endorse extending the grass free circle
One of the biggest mistakes people make when planting new trees is too much guying and support. People think the trees should be rigid and not able to move. Wrong
New trees need proper depth of planting, well firmed in so the rootball is secure, then one or two stakes with loose jute ties at a low level. The trunk needs to flex, it allows the cells to develop properly to support the tree on its own as it grows.
Providing early support should only be just enough to help it avoid excessive bending in the wind as it might not have been exposed as much to wind and flexing in it's life in a nursery so far.
So, loose ties that 'take up' after a normal amount of flex in a higher than normal wind.
Flexing and returning promotes cell strength and allows normal taper to form. Tying a tree up to within an inch of it's life only leads to a weak stem/trunk with inadequate taper for later years.

Also, now you have corrected the lower branch, pretty much leave the rest for a couple years unless it is obvious that something is growing where you don't want it or would cause a problem taking it off in later years. All those branches are also helping to add to the stem development, and will eventually be pruned off as the tree grows in height.