Pass, maybe?
- Thread starter Treeaddict
- Start date
- Replies 43
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
Nice for clear areas.
Rigid, not suspended by the hook.
I've only ridden via climb-line.
Rigid, not suspended by the hook.
I've only ridden via climb-line.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I've worked a man basket before. It is limited for positioning. But handy when you need it. Used it on some overly dead oaks on ground a lift just would not get close enough on. 75 foot stick on that one. Targets too close to drop huge pieces, but far enough away to drop some 10-15 foot lengths. Just had to make the tree smaller to drop the stems. Too sketchy to have a climber in or on them
yeah, where I need the crane on this job is a spot directly under the 2 trees, no other spots for it, I figure since the boom cant go up past the trees, I can ride my bucket up and clear what I can reach before the crane shows up, then ride the cranes basket up to clear a path for the boom, rare that I have to make a crane fit but unless I get an 80-110 ton and park down in the yard then the only place is the driveway
~20ft lower in the yard, trees are on the edge of the driveway, not even sure the 30 ton will reach height wise, but I dont want to pay for an 80, might have to tho
~20ft lower in the yard, trees are on the edge of the driveway, not even sure the 30 ton will reach height wise, but I dont want to pay for an 80, might have to tho
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
My point was that with the basket, one need only reach the target. Not worry about picking weights
that too, theres 2 40-50ft long ~20" diameter limbs that can just be dropped right in the yard via a basket, wouldnt make those cuts while climbing and would be 5 or 6 crane picks for each limb
still 20-30 smaller limbs, maybe an hour of basket work then fly a climber up and knock them out nice and fast
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
As I previously stated. Granted I am not there. But, I would not, could not, send a climber up that dead SOB.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #34
I’ve operated quite a few all terrain boom lifts but never with a chainsaw. It will be a different experience to put the lift knowing and saw/tree knowledge together
I believe he was asking if ive worked from a basket slung under the hook on a crane
the A/T baskets do move a lot but nothing like a slung basket, probably not terribly different from a bucket truck if you have ever used one (although buckets dont push/sway much at all, be lucky to get 2ft out of it on a real nasty stop when swinging)
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
From what it *looks* like in the pics, I would hold it back from the house and it’s lean and a little to the lay and drop it. Tall open/box face, bore and trigger. Gunning direction is a little harder. I have read to adjust the gun x feet for x feet of lean, but found on dead leaners if you get greedy they just snap and go with gravity…so just gun for lay, plus a little bit. Plenty of stump shot so the hold line doesn’t pull the butt back off the stump.
Or man lift. Easy no sweat.
Or man lift. Easy no sweat.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
Quoted the job with a lift to safely cut the top out and then fall the spar when it can’t reach the house. It’s been over a month and no response. I see this becoming an emergency removal once it’s hit the house.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Follow up?
Treeaddict
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
I haven’t. My friend/neighbor/groundie submitted the quote and is in charge of it as he has a relationship with the owners. I’ve had enough other work that I’m not worried about it. However, I don’t want it falling on their house.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #40
I’d experiment with it and cut like you describe if there wasn’t a home at stake, fo sho. I don’t trust the canopy strength nor the root strength though.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
How much lateral force do you think you are fighting with the hinge strength (unknowable) and a rope (pick your strength, as much) in order to hold it to the lay?
Treeaddict
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #42
Id go with 3/4” Stablebraid
EAB kills are brittle, very brittle. Id be afraid it could come off the stump prematurely or the top would crack out if it.
Ive climbed them but stayed on the trunk and kept it in compression but never rigged off them - always used another tree for a rigging attachment. Actually, one EAB dead ash had a very squishy spot. I just kicked a 6” limb completely off.
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
When bidding things in the future, consider the cost of a durable/ consumable tool allowing you to avoid getting off the ground, and continue to use said tool for a long time
Vs
Driving to the rental place (a risk and expense)/ waiting in line (an expense), towing the rental lift (a bigger risk with bigger consequences and an expense), using the lift ( a risk), hopefully not getting struck, towing it back (more time and money), driving back to the job site (money and risk)...
Vs paying for delivery and avoiding some of the time-loss, risk, and expense.
Delivery of a towable rental item may be cheaper, all things considered, than supposedly saving money by DIY.
Vs
Driving to the rental place (a risk and expense)/ waiting in line (an expense), towing the rental lift (a bigger risk with bigger consequences and an expense), using the lift ( a risk), hopefully not getting struck, towing it back (more time and money), driving back to the job site (money and risk)...
Vs paying for delivery and avoiding some of the time-loss, risk, and expense.
Delivery of a towable rental item may be cheaper, all things considered, than supposedly saving money by DIY.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
Where is Girard? :-)
