Numb hands

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Many thanks for the advice (except the wanking bits, i have a very helpful girlfriend so its not that.) ill try them all!:D
 
I don't buy into the whack theory, when I was running a saw hard daily, I had trouble with numb hands, they would wake me up at night, but since I haven't been running saws much, I haven't had any trouble at all.
 
Mike Maas said:
I don't buy into the whack theory, when I was running a saw hard daily, I had trouble with numb hands, they would wake me up at night, but since I haven't been running saws much, I haven't had any trouble at all.
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All the more reason to take care of your anti-vibe mounts. :)
 
MasterBlaster said:
How do you do that? You use them until they break, then replace them. Are you talking about unnecessary yanking ang pulling on the handle? :?
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What I have always done. Sure cannot see swapping mounts when they are not broken. Anyhow, seems like the looser they are, the more vibrations they would absorb. Stiffer mount would mean more vibrations transferred.
:?:?
 
Nope. Mounts can wear out(become much less effective)long before they break. Espescially on the old rattle your teeth out Husky's. That said I'd never change 'em until they broke either.
 
Some saws are a lot worse than others when it comes to vibration, that is for sure.
That is the single biggest improvement with the new line of Stihls. Some of those old saws are horrible when it comes to vibration.
Spring suspension is better than rubber, and the new hybrid rubber over springs are even better.
 
Change them every couple of years, and yes... don't yank and wrench on them unnecessarily.

Most anti-vibe mounts work not just by being "cushy" material. They're also designed to dampen certain "frequencies"; when they get old and worn, they don't respond to those frequencies the same way.

On the other end of it, try to notice how hard you grip your saw. Most people (me included) have a tendency to grip tighter and tighter as the cut goes on. Don't grip the saw with all your might if you don't need to; use enough force to keep the saw safely in control, little more.
 
Meant to add also that worn mounts tend to require you to push them to their limit of travel to get any pressure in the cut... at the limit, they're not working at all anyways. Kinda like a shock absorber in your car when it bottoms out.

:)
 
NeTree said:
Change them every couple of years, and yes... don't yank and wrench on them unnecessarily.

Most anti-vibe mounts work not just by being "cushy" material. They're also designed to dampen certain "frequencies"; when they get old and worn, they don't respond to those frequencies the same way.
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Think that's true for spring mounts too?
 
Absolutely. Steel springs can wear out, too. As time goes on, spring steel becomes more crystalline in grain structure- less "elastic", in other words- as a result of punishing vibration, heat, and pressure you apply. You usually can't see it, but you can measure that the spring takes less force to compress/expand than it did when new. And again, worn out components don't filter out the vibrations as well. After time, you're limiting out the springs, and getting the full force of the motor.

Which, is where using less pressure in your cut, and keeping a sharp chain can come in. Less pressure, less likelihood of bottoming out the mounts... better vibration damping.
 
I used to run saws half sharp alot. Now when it loses that edge I stop and fix it right away. Makes a big difference with my body.
 
The rubber mounts used on saws have a tendency to become hard as a rock after a period of soaking up bar oil much like the engine mounts on a auto engine . I have no clue how a person could avoid getting bar oil on them to prevent this from happening .

I do know that the top rear mount on most Stihls controls to a great extent the movements associated with the intake boot .If this mount fails in a real short time the boot will be become damaged leading to engine problems and quite possibley a lean run condition . That's a case where replacing a 12 dollar mount could save 300 bucks or more in a top engine rebuild .
 
Speaking of shock absorbers not absorbing shock, contorted backs and necks twist vertebrae, bulge discs, and pinch nerves. The brachial nerves emanate from mid-upper back, around the 6th cervical vertebra. Posture while sleeping and working makes a big difference.
 
Must be why those guys on Axe Men use 30" bars to bump nubs. :roll:
 
why bend over all day, that and one saw does it all, limbing, bucking and felling.
 
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