MS201T

[CurSedVoyce]

Yeah I really want to pick one up (2139) and mod the exhaust and see what I get. I'll buy another 200T first though.

 

[Tucker943]

I left the 200t because of dealer support.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I left the dealer because of lack of. They only support parts these days

 

[brendonv]

Im not sure that'd help, Brian.

It's totally random all of a sudden. Starts random, will stop and run fine.

The saw still cuts good, just get's dangerous during high idle time.

 

[arborworks1]

. I richened up my low jet from day one. Could it be an ethanol induced problem??

 

[Reddog]

Richen up the low speed jet slightly. Sounds like the saw is running a bit lean when warm.

Sawcollector had a thread about tuning the 441. I can't find it but it is not a simple turn the screws thing. Setting the low was a little trickier.
Thinking the 201 is similar.
So I agree with Skwerl, richen the low speed to slow it down.

 

[woodworkingboy]

I seem to recall having a similar problem with a saw, where a carb disassembly and cleaning solved it.

 

[Reddog]

Found it. This was for the 441

Make sure the saw does not have any air leaks or fuel system troubles and try tuning it like this:
Gently warm it up. With a tach set the idle to about 3300 RPM, then find the lean drop off point with the L screw. That is where the RPM drops off lean if you go clockwise any further, and also starts to drop off when you go rich by turning the L screw out. Once you find the L screw lean drop off point and the idle is at 3300, then use the L screw to fatten up the idle to get to the desired idle speed of 2800 RPM, not the idle speed screw. Once you get that done you will find that the saw idles well and will have crisp throttle response and is at it's optimum mixture setting for idle and off idle. Then go to wide open throttle (WOT) just long enough to see what the tach says, don't hold it there very long, and go from rich towards lean to get to no higher that 13,500. The module will take away every 8th spark above that so you can get too lean but it won't over-rev, so always go from rich, say around 11 or 12 K up to 13,500. If the carb doesn't tune sensitively then there is a fault in the carb or an air leak or something else wrong. When I tune a 441 this way it runs good, so try it and see if the man has any better luck.

 

[Bermy]

When doing the WOT revs, I assume you're using the H screw to go from 11/12 to 13,500 at that point?
May be self explainatory to the gearheads, but I need a bit more clarification to be sure!

 

[Reddog]

When doing the WOT revs, I assume you're using the H screw to go from 11/12 to 13,500 at that point?
May be self explainatory to the gearheads, but I need a bit more clarification to be sure!

Yes, you are correct.

 

[Bermy]

Yes, you are correct.

Ta...will this method work in general for most saws, once you know the RPM range for the model?
Always done it by ear...never quite sure I've got them just right...

 

[Reddog]

The Stato charged 441 is the only one I have need to tune this way. All my others are more by ear on the low and mid range rpm, then I use a tach for checking/setting the max rpm.

 

[Bermy]

Right then...off to get a tach...soon...ish...

 

[woodworkingboy]

Definitely get a tach, Fiona. Still, to be honest, I can't understand how you can use a tach to dial in a saw so specifically, as Eddy describes. With a higher quality tach that gives a quickly refreshed reading, the numbers really jump around, and with a slower tach that appears to give a somewhat more stable reading, it isn't a true reading. Every now and then the better tach will hover around a specific rpm, but it is more rare to not have fluctuating numbers by 300 or 400 rpms, are my results. I find a tach good for a general adjustment of sorts, or when wanting to know what is the highest rpm that the engine has reached, but for dialing in, by ear seems more accurate to me, whatever the number of rpms is that you are hearing. Must be a learned thing, one way or another.

 

[cory]

Im not sure that'd help, Brian.

It's totally random all of a sudden. Starts random, will stop and run fine.

The saw still cuts good, just get's dangerous during high idle time.

Totally agree.

I've got 2 brand new 201s, both basically junk. No mas Stihl, and this coming from a HUGE fan of 200s, loved and appreciated the speed, reliability, productivity, durability, and even the look of the saw.

 

[cory]

I've spent years listening to the howl of a 200t with no screen.

Yeah! I love that sound!

The johhny doesn't sound like that. So my mind wanted to trick me at first and think that its not as fast because it doesn't sound as fast. Not the case. I don't think its exactly as fast as the stihl, but its close, and not broken in yet.

Interesting observations. Thanks for the recomendation, I gonna try one.

 

[Tucker943]

Cory, mine isn't broken in yet nor has it seen a full fledged busy season of demanding use. So, while I'm really happy here and now, I don't want to make anyone think I'm swearing by this saw yet.

 

[cory]

Is this the saw that is basically a Husky only in red, or is it unique? I hope it's not a Husky underneath it all cuz I tried those climbing saws and they were as bad as a 201.

 

[Tucker943]

I believe its a red husky......

 

[cory]

Hmmm. Actually they were better than the 201 as they worked well for several months before they started to shit the bed, whereas I've had periods of several minutes of good perfornance from the Stihl

 

[Fruitbowl]

I snatched up the last 2 200T's in Flagstaff!! I feel lucky.

 

[greatoutdoors]

I haven't taken the plunge for a new 201T, yet. The mixed reviews still has me sceptical. I'm almost considering a different brand top handle saw. But, I like the fact that I have 3 Stihl dealers in my town. Anyone think I'd be crazy to try a Dolmar 3410? Are they sold in the U.S.?

The 3410 is a decent saw, but I believe they just discontinued them and they are a reed-valve motor, which is slower reving saw. The performance will be a disappointment if you are used to a 200t.

As for the guys with the racing 201t, I'd just take it to the dealer and want them to clean the carb and pressure test it. That's just annoying and should be fixed by the manufacturer IMO.

Lastly, if someone wants a 2139t, my dealer has one and he would probably be willing to let it go for under 400. I can supply a number if needed and he will ship. Full warranty and all that good stuff.

 

[cory]

I picked up a Husky 338 today cuz my 201s are unacceptable. I'll let you all know how it's running once I get some time on it. Just got 2 0200s back from the repair shop,yeeeaaaaaahhhhh, can't believe I get to run a 200 again!!




Sad, I know.

 

[arborworks1]

Have you considering shipping them off to the builder from arboristsite?

If not I'll be happy to see if I can get it running better. Pm me.

 

[cory]

Thanks for the offer. The dealer wants a crack at them first, though I'll be very surprised if they get them running right. They've sold 50 of them and haven't heard of any problems?!?