Mini skids?

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  • #26
I thought I'd like a bigger DW mini skid, but I don't like how the 1550 handles compared to the 800. I haven't really used a 1550 for removals, just a little driving around the firewood lot, and just didn't like it. Controls are sluggish. I think it must have computerized controls. The 800 used to be around $25k, now $35k with the whole inflation and doubling of steel's value stuff going on. You can easily put 800-1200hrs on one with only basic maintenance if you treat it nicely. Just keep all the screws tight, and the usual parts handy: tools for putting the tracks back on, tensioner grease gun and spare fitting, a few sets of spare hydraulic hoses with all fittings, fuses, build a protective cage over the hood, and secure the yellow boom prop pins so they can't ever come loose. Maybe even keep a new hydraulic and fuel tank on hand just in case they break, and even get a spare set of tracks and wheels pre-ordered, so you'll have them when you need them after 600-1400hrs. The 800 won't do everything, but it will do plenty. You could probably make a weight for the platform to help work on steep ground. Replace all hydraulic lines after 800hrs or so to avoid a hard to get to line failure.
The 800 is too small for me, otherwise I'd get one for way less than the 1550
 
Once upon a time the 800 didn't exist. I feel spoiled getting to use one. It can get in small places, and I have loaded some huge chunks with it, even over 1000lbs with a counterweight and if you know how to manipulate it right at the expense of possibly bending the attachment mounting plate slightly over time. Otherwise I just cut stuff smaller. Granted the 800 can't work on steep ground very well, but I knew a guy who would run a little bushhog attachment on it. I used to work with a climber and a farm truck. We'd stuff everything in the back of that pickup, and make a 2-3 hauls in a day. Minimum overhead, so there was more money to go around even though fewer jobs per day got done. Money that could go towards a ported 90cc chainsaw to quickly dice up everything small enough to load by hand.
 
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #28
You can't just cut mill logs into short pieces
Currently the biggest usable logs we do is like 6ft because the boxer can't move them
Neither can the 800, I need that 6k tipping capacity/2k operating capacity for what I'm doing, a smaller machine will not be considered due to it being a complete waste of money for my company
 
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  • #31
if that would work here, that would be nice, I got a "niche" market per se, long logs often have to go over top of a fence, or over the sides of my trailer, so to load a 10-16ft mill log I have to lift it atleast 5ft up in one piece
and even for non mill logs, I still have the issue of terrain, hows the log dolly do jumping curbs (up and down), and rock features?
just today I ran my mini skid over a garden bed with rocks around, curb, and a ditch, just moving the tiny logs that I can
that grapple truck would have done every job this week, but all today instead and id have the weeks money in a day instead
 
Increase the diameter of the wheels to go over rougher terrain easier. Sounds like you could use a chainsaw mill now until you can afford what you want. Or remove the fence, then put it back.

You can't open the trailer doors and put logs in that way? Maybe you need a different trailer. Or rig up some crane mechanism over the trailer to load your logs.
 
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  • #33
we have a chainsaw mill, absolutely terrible, slow, loud, lose a lot to sawdust, and cost a lot to run (same price as paying our bandsaw dude)
sometimes I can open the trailer doors, although since they dont open flush to the trailer sides and get into part of the oncoming lane, I load with doors shut reaching over the curb side
narrow roads and all, I cant normally leave them open
for now just gonna make due with what I got, might make a rack on my boxer to hang tractor weights or something
 
Skid logs are one approach, if you can't get wheels under the log or wheels to work with the terrain. Leapfrog the skid logs from where the lid just came off them to in front of the log, after the mini.

Can you take the trailer doors off or strap to loaded logs, extended straight off the back?

Ripping a log in half, freehand or otherwise, will cut the weight in half, possible readying it for the bandsaw. My neighbor's mill handles 34" diameter, so I've had to rip them down to move and/ or fit the mill, on occasion.

I definitely have had to quarter ( or halve and shave the sides off of) some logs to fit my smaller mill.
 
I'm recently considering something like a Toro TX1300 for a small forwarder that can fit on the trailer with the lift. We'll see if/how the idea comes to fruition.
It weighs almost 4000 lbs and picks up 1300 lbs. And it has tracks which suck on lawns. I realize I'm in a different geographical area and you guys in muddy, clay, hilly terrain need tracks but my Avant 528 weighs 3100 lbs and picks up over 2000 lbs. And it has the extending forks (like the Toro TX1300) so I can load over the side of a trailer with 4' sides or my F350 with 42" sides. If you need something smaller the Avant 423 will pick up the same 1300 lbs as the Toro. is only 42" wide and weighs 2380 lbs.


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I've sold several Avants over the years. There's no way a 42x Avant will lift with a Toro TX1300, the Toro could pick the 42x up with forks. The 528 can fit sideways on a trailer without an attachment, which could be nice. The Giant or other articulating loaders that you sit on the back and have a throttle control with a forward/reverse switch could are an idea.

The weight of the machine isn't a huge concern, my other loader weighs 12klb, my excavator weighs 13klb, lift weighs 9klb... The stump grinder is a fairly svelte 3200lb.
 
I've sold several Avants over the years. There's no way a 42x Avant will lift with a Toro TX1300, the Toro could pick the 42x up with forks. The 528 can fit sideways on a trailer without an attachment, which could be nice. The Giant or other articulating loaders that you sit on the back and have a throttle control with a forward/reverse switch could are an idea.

The weight of the machine isn't a huge concern, my other loader weighs 12klb, my excavator weighs 13klb, lift weighs 9klb... The stump grinder is a fairly svelte 3200lb.
I think the forward/reverse switch is a step backwards. The dual pedal setup on my Avant is so damn quick. Especially when pushing/rolling/gathering up debris to grab it. I can back up a hair to scoop under a pile so quick I don't even think about it any more. If I had to flip a switch every time I wanted to change directions it would slow me down a lot.
 
Thumb switch on my al340 is zero issue in fluidity. Lost my main pivot bearing yesterday, it's in the loader hospital now, icu
 
The switch being on the loader joystick makes it more versatile, not less.

I've ran both styles, namely Gehl AL20 (Made by Avant back in the day), AL140, AL340, AL540, Avant 420, 528, 750, Giant 254 Tele and standard booms, Multione whatever models those were, Boxer branded Mutlione (back in the day), I'm sure I'm forgetting some. Being able to shift to neutral and rev the machine up is handy, being able to press the brake (inching pedal) and slow the drive speed while reving the engine is handy.

Thumb switch on my al340 is zero issue in fluidity. Lost my main pivot bearing yesterday, it's in the loader hospital now, icu
Oof, the top or bottom joint?

Fun fact, I've ran Willie's AL340 when it was in Michigan before sending it to him 😂
 
I plan to never not have a machine like this. I've hauled logs, chips, hay, rotovated, split wood, harrowed, pulled calves, loaded everything, revamped baseball infields, drilled pastures, skinned bucks, augered holes, drove posts and many, many more things
 
Sheesh, hard to tell what happened, but did the post/pin that runs in the lower bearing break/break the weld?
 
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