woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
My helmet has lasted for like ten years on the same battery. The outside clear plastic window got scratched up, but it can be replaced.
Miller TIG, Which one?
- Thread starter lumberjack
- Start date
- Replies 94
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Al Smith
Mac Daddy
To each his own .Auto darkeners never impressed me that much .
I just plug away with my old Jackson but here of late I had to replace the number 12 lens with a ten because I don't see quite as well as I did when I wore a younger mans' clothes . Then you have the bifocals to deal with .Kind of odd to see 6 arcs at once .
I just plug away with my old Jackson but here of late I had to replace the number 12 lens with a ten because I don't see quite as well as I did when I wore a younger mans' clothes . Then you have the bifocals to deal with .Kind of odd to see 6 arcs at once .
J
Jonseredbred
Guest
Seems lately I am changing all the time.
Stick welding I am down to an 8 to be able to see.
I prefer the 10 when MIG welding, a little brighter arc it seems.
Stick welding I am down to an 8 to be able to see.
I prefer the 10 when MIG welding, a little brighter arc it seems.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Number 8 
Are you blind ? I think I burn with a number 6 .
When I was shop welding years ago I used a 12 with a 2.5 flash goggle under ,safety glasses .
Are you blind ? I think I burn with a number 6 .When I was shop welding years ago I used a 12 with a 2.5 flash goggle under ,safety glasses .
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #30
Ha I think you being at much lighter shade doing the same process means that you'd be the blind one, AL.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Evidently there is some mix up in communication .When I say I burn something it means use a cutting torch not run an arc welder .
Welders slang,hang in there you'll get it in time .
Walking the cup ,burning in a hot one ,stacking dimes ,just part of the lingo . Turn -er up and run -er down is pipeliner stuff .
Welders slang,hang in there you'll get it in time .
Walking the cup ,burning in a hot one ,stacking dimes ,just part of the lingo . Turn -er up and run -er down is pipeliner stuff .
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #33
Jim/others.
The torch is the same if it's for hand or foot control, right? The hand control velcros onto the handle of the torch, right? If so, I'll get a foot control also.
Opinions on the Weldcraft setup vs the Miller setup? Looks like the Weldcraft is shy a hose and regulator?
The torch is the same if it's for hand or foot control, right? The hand control velcros onto the handle of the torch, right? If so, I'll get a foot control also.
Opinions on the Weldcraft setup vs the Miller setup? Looks like the Weldcraft is shy a hose and regulator?
The control will be completely separate from the torch. There is a positive lead, gas, and coolant hook ups on the torch.. The foot control just has the 14 pin connector and hooks up seperately. I use the same control for all my torches.
Ok looking at the weldcraft setup... The hand control is built into the torch. Not a bad thing but it makes the torch bulky if your using a foot control. I have never used that style of weldcraft torch. I would go for the miller kit...
I have 3 torches all weldcraft, a CS310, which is a bigger torch i have only used a few times, the standard WP20 and a WP225 modular kit. The 225 is nice cause I have 5 or 6 different heads for it. It came as a big kit and was a good investment. I use the standard non flex head wp 20 the most though... I got a bunch of accessories for all of them, The model numbers may be off, im just going off memory.
Ok looking at the weldcraft setup... The hand control is built into the torch. Not a bad thing but it makes the torch bulky if your using a foot control. I have never used that style of weldcraft torch. I would go for the miller kit...
I have 3 torches all weldcraft, a CS310, which is a bigger torch i have only used a few times, the standard WP20 and a WP225 modular kit. The 225 is nice cause I have 5 or 6 different heads for it. It came as a big kit and was a good investment. I use the standard non flex head wp 20 the most though... I got a bunch of accessories for all of them, The model numbers may be off, im just going off memory.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #35
Thanks for the info, I figured the controls were interchangable.
I'll probably get a water cooled torch at some point. The main advantage is the torch's body doesn't heat up as much at the higher amps, right?
I'll probably get a water cooled torch at some point. The main advantage is the torch's body doesn't heat up as much at the higher amps, right?
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
I can buy this Dynasty power source and this torch kit for about $97 less than I can buy them together, and I can get my $100 off with my coupon on the power source.
I don't see why I wouldn't, the money saved would cover half of the foot control.
I don't see why I wouldn't, the money saved would cover half of the foot control.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #38
Paying for the Dynasty 200DX power source now, $2628 delivered. Air cooled torch, finger and foot remotes for another $814.90 from www.cyberweld.com, for a total of $3442.90.
The cheapest Ebay package with a Miller Torch and finger remote was $3429 w/o the foot remote. So an extra $13.90 for the foot remote, they practically gave it away!
The cheapest Ebay package with a Miller Torch and finger remote was $3429 w/o the foot remote. So an extra $13.90 for the foot remote, they practically gave it away!
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
I was pondering, does cooler torch temps increase arc stability? Tungsten life? I get the increase in duty cycle already 
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Don't thinks so Carl, since the arc temp is extremely high temp to begin with. It's cooler to hold in your hand, and can melt the plastic, if it's a plastic handle.
C
cutitup
Guest
The whole miller or linclon thing is kinda a "ford or chevy" argument. Both are good machines. I tig everyday all day so take this as a 'biased' opinion. You will NEED (not just want) a machine that will do ~250-300 amps. at around 60% duty cycle and a water cooled torch rated the same. Of course make sure the machine has "hi-freq" as well. Also I work on equipment as well as bench weld and find the foot control does 99% of what I need to do. The only real use I've have had for the hand contol was when doing in postion pipe work abord ship - and not always even then. The "square wave" technolgy they have now is great for welding alum.
As for welding alum with a 2% thouriated tungsten you can do it but the tungsten "spits" into the weld puddle. (that's why you get all those tiny balls on the end) It works OK but if your doing code work it will show up on a X ray and the weld will fail. However for repair work and the like it's fine.
Comparing this to saws is like telling someone to get a poluon wild thing. If you only use it once a year to cut tiny stuff it MAY be ok. But you know that it really won't cut it for ANYTHING resembling serious work. Folks often ask me (being a welder) which machine to get and these are guys who are into muscle cars and serious home projects. To a man the ones who scrimped and bought cheap are sorry. It's like buying a 1/4 impact gun!! Why bother! Hope this helps.
As for welding alum with a 2% thouriated tungsten you can do it but the tungsten "spits" into the weld puddle. (that's why you get all those tiny balls on the end) It works OK but if your doing code work it will show up on a X ray and the weld will fail. However for repair work and the like it's fine.
Comparing this to saws is like telling someone to get a poluon wild thing. If you only use it once a year to cut tiny stuff it MAY be ok. But you know that it really won't cut it for ANYTHING resembling serious work. Folks often ask me (being a welder) which machine to get and these are guys who are into muscle cars and serious home projects. To a man the ones who scrimped and bought cheap are sorry. It's like buying a 1/4 impact gun!! Why bother! Hope this helps.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #42
I agree with everything you said in the first paragraph except:
Making a blanket statement that everyone needs 250-300 amps, 60% duty cycle, and a water cooled torch is like akin to saying everyone needs at least an MS660, without concern for what they do. In this case that machine will cost and weigh 4x what the Dynasty 200DX scales at and you loose the ability to run on 120VAC, which I also plan on making money with in the long run. 3 phase isn't an option in my shop (unless I generate it), neither is cable tv or DSL on the telephone lines.
Since the thickest thing I figure on welding with the tig is 1/8", based on current forcasts. I think that 200 amps is more than enough, and I have a reasonable room to grow. I do plan on getting a water cooled setup, but that's not a prereq to the job that I'm wanting so I'll save some money pennies first.
I also have about $600 riding on the ability to get down to micro TIG amperage in a couple projects around the house.
Making a blanket statement that everyone needs 250-300 amps, 60% duty cycle, and a water cooled torch is like akin to saying everyone needs at least an MS660, without concern for what they do. In this case that machine will cost and weigh 4x what the Dynasty 200DX scales at and you loose the ability to run on 120VAC, which I also plan on making money with in the long run. 3 phase isn't an option in my shop (unless I generate it), neither is cable tv or DSL on the telephone lines.
Since the thickest thing I figure on welding with the tig is 1/8", based on current forcasts. I think that 200 amps is more than enough, and I have a reasonable room to grow. I do plan on getting a water cooled setup, but that's not a prereq to the job that I'm wanting so I'll save some money pennies first.
I also have about $600 riding on the ability to get down to micro TIG amperage in a couple projects around the house.
C
cutitup
Guest
I understand your point lumberjack but I still maintain you will quickly outgrow a 200 amp machine. I lurk here allot and know that you are "not your average bear". IOT some of the projects you tackle are of the type that will require the machine I recommend. Start playing around with even 1/4" alum. and you'd see.
Your said in your case that I'm recommending a "660" to a home owner. I disagree. A "660" would be a 800 amp machine. To take this comparison a bit further .......... I'm talking to a HO that can run a saw and is pretty handy and lives in the forest. I'd tell him to get a 361 or a 441.
If you must scrmip on all the other shat but on the machine itself get the 250 amp AT LEAST.
Your said in your case that I'm recommending a "660" to a home owner. I disagree. A "660" would be a 800 amp machine. To take this comparison a bit further .......... I'm talking to a HO that can run a saw and is pretty handy and lives in the forest. I'd tell him to get a 361 or a 441.
If you must scrmip on all the other shat but on the machine itself get the 250 amp AT LEAST.
C
cutitup
Guest
Oh, and I forgot to add almost all 300 amp machines can be had @ 220/208 volt power so don't worry about needing a phase converter or such.
And one last thing I wouldn't steer ya wrong bro, ya'all have answered any questions I've had about tree work and now you can pick my brain - what little there is of it
Too bad your not in PA you could hone my rigging skills and I could have you tig welding like a pro in no time.
And one last thing I wouldn't steer ya wrong bro, ya'all have answered any questions I've had about tree work and now you can pick my brain - what little there is of it
Too bad your not in PA you could hone my rigging skills and I could have you tig welding like a pro in no time.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Carl, don't the welder manufacturers offer a short course that teaches tig? I took a two day course offered by Panasonic. It was quite helpful.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #47
I'm not sure Jay.
Cutitup, the thickest aluminum project I have forecasted is still 1/8". The Dynasty 350 does 225 amps @ 60%, the Syncro 250 does 200 @ 60% and the 350 does 300 @ 60%. The Dynasty 200 is 45lbs, the Syncro 300 is 500lbs. To get 250 amps @ 60% on a smaller machine requires 3 phase.
My MIG is a Millermatic 185 and it's been able to handle anything I've needed in the past 6 months.
The way I saw it, the Dynasty 200DX is THE best 200 amp machine with regards to all around portability, power range, and features. The probability of me needing a larger machine for personal use in the next 5 years is slim to none. If I decided I made a big enough mistake that I need to sell it, I shouldn't have trouble getting 70% of my money back quickly. If I get into thicker weldments I'd most likely step up to a Millermatic 350P.
As is, I'm equipped well enough now in welding to handle any of my needs, and I could make some side money if need be although I want to add a Hypertherm 1000/1250 in the reasonable future. Assuming I land this job, next up is some acreage, and a good sized shop w/ living quarters. Then add a mill, lathe, and plasma table. If I could work out the acreage near 3 phase, that'd be NICE.
It's a theory at least.
PS If I get in a bind, I do have access to the machine and welding shop at the community college.
Cutitup, the thickest aluminum project I have forecasted is still 1/8". The Dynasty 350 does 225 amps @ 60%, the Syncro 250 does 200 @ 60% and the 350 does 300 @ 60%. The Dynasty 200 is 45lbs, the Syncro 300 is 500lbs. To get 250 amps @ 60% on a smaller machine requires 3 phase.
My MIG is a Millermatic 185 and it's been able to handle anything I've needed in the past 6 months.
The way I saw it, the Dynasty 200DX is THE best 200 amp machine with regards to all around portability, power range, and features. The probability of me needing a larger machine for personal use in the next 5 years is slim to none. If I decided I made a big enough mistake that I need to sell it, I shouldn't have trouble getting 70% of my money back quickly. If I get into thicker weldments I'd most likely step up to a Millermatic 350P.
As is, I'm equipped well enough now in welding to handle any of my needs, and I could make some side money if need be although I want to add a Hypertherm 1000/1250 in the reasonable future. Assuming I land this job, next up is some acreage, and a good sized shop w/ living quarters. Then add a mill, lathe, and plasma table. If I could work out the acreage near 3 phase, that'd be NICE.
It's a theory at least.
PS If I get in a bind, I do have access to the machine and welding shop at the community college.
sawinredneck
Treehouser
DOES IT HAVE TO BE MILLER?????????????
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p000054.htm
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/1014362376.html
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p000054.htm
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/1014362376.html
lumberjack
Young man on the go
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #49
Doesn't have to be, but it can't be either of those.
sawinredneck
Treehouser
Same one, just a good deal.
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