Husqvarna Techlite Chainsaw Bar

[Reddog]

Any one running these?
They seem to be priced less than the Oregon reduced weight bars.

Husqvarna 28" Techlite Chainsaw Bar (TRL-380-93)
The design and performance meet in the new Techlite chainsaw bar. Made with an aluminum core and steel side plates, the manufacturing process gives the bar structural integrity comparable to a professional solid bar – weighing much more. In fact, the TechLite is on average 27 percent lighter than a standard professional replaceable sprocket nose bar.

"The ability to run a longer bar for less weight allows for greater productivity with less fatigue," said Stacie Zerfoss, product manager, Husqvarna. "Fatigue is the leading cause of chain saw injuries." The reduced weight of the bar allows chain saw operators to run a 20-inch Techlite for the same weight as a 16-inch solid pro bar, both weighing 2 pounds.

 

[sawinredneck]

It's a neat idea, but they only make a 20 and 28" in large mount, IF your dealer can get them! I'm hearing good things about them so far, but they are newish so not a lot of run time on them yet.
I was drooling over the 562xp, to replace my BB046, but with the price of the saw, the premium, and I do mean premium, of the teklite bar, and lack of 24", no deal.

 

[HolmenTree]

The Husqvarna tech lite bar is a 3 piece bar.From my experience with laminated bars in professional use the rails spread in a short time and your stuck with a floppy on & off again cutting chain. Especially bad when your chain's cutters are filed down small. Laminated bar rails can't be sucessfully tightened up , if they are retightened they spread back out within a very short time. Also same problem straightening these bars when bent.
Now having said that maybe Husqvarna figured out a way to avoid this , but I think highly unlikely.

The Oregon Pro and Stihl ES weight reduced bars are solid body bars with the center milled out and aluminum centers added. Now you have a good quality servicable bar that can be re-tightened and straightened.
These bars are not designed for everybody though.

 

[stig]

"Fatigue is the leading cause of chainsaw injuries".

So all the homeowners cut themselves because they are tired and not because they are frig-ups using a piece of machinery they are not qualified to operate, while wearing inadequate PPC.

Sure, that sounds reasonable.

 

[HolmenTree]

"Fatigue is the leading cause of chainsaw injuries".

So all the homeowners cut themselves because they are tired and not because they are frig-ups using a piece of machinery they are not qualified to operate, while wearing inadequate PPC.

Sure, that sounds reasonable.

Yes there is definately 2 different sides of the railway tracks
Especially homeowners installing max rated bar length on their saws.

 

[Burnham]

That last would be me, I guess.

 

[stig]

But then you work for the government, so fatigue is not an issue

 

[Magnus]

We will see. Laminated bar with replaceable tip is perhaps a good thing, but I doubt it will not replace the solid bars.

 

[SkwerI]

But then you work for the government, so fatigue is not an issue

 

[SoonerFan]

But then you work for the government, so fatigue is not an issue

Owww. That hurt. But then I'm just on the state payroll, not the fed's.

 

[Cut4fun]

I was drooling over the 562xp, to replace my BB046, but with the price of the saw, the premium, and I do mean premium, of the teklite bar, and lack of 24", no deal.

The retail around here is $750 but I do know they have been bought for $630. Just so you know to shop.

 

[Reddog]

The Husqvarna tech lite bar is a 3 piece bar.From my experience with laminated bars in professional use the rails spread in a short time and your stuck with a floppy on & off again cutting chain.
Now having said that maybe Husqvarna figured out a way to avoid this , but I think highly unlikely.

I had the same thoughts, was hoping maybe someone had designed a better trap.

That last would be me, I guess.

You and I both kind Sir!

 

[PolarBear]

Yes there is definately 2 different sides of the railway tracks
Especially homeowners installing max rated bar length on their saws.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Light bars are great if you need the long bar, but bar lengths are out of hand, I see 50cc saws new sold with 20-24 inch bars on them, and 40cc saw with 18 s. Alot of people dont realize what you can actually cut with a shorter handy bar, As a kid the biggest bar dad had was a 16, I remember cutting some big oaks with a 16 inch bar. I like 16 s on my limbers, 18 is fine for most jobs, and on my bigger saws I run a 24 if I can get away with it, or a 28. After that 30 inch plus is a pain in the butt.

 

[woodworkingboy]

I like a thirty inch bar on a 70 something cc saw. I also like a five foot bar on a 100 something cc saw. Agree, a 24" bar on a 50cc saw is not very practical.

 

[sawinredneck]

I run an 18" on my 350 and it's happy as a clam, I run a 20" on my 5100, but that saw ain't right

 

[Cut4fun]

Whats wrong with your 5100? They had some issues that was updated on the 5105.

 

[sawinredneck]

Nothing wrong with it at all! It modded out nicely and is my main felling saw now, it just doesn't run like a 50cc saw should!

 

[PolarBear]

24, on my 372 s 28 on my 9010, 32 on my 084

 

[pigwot]

I climb with a 346xp and a 16" bar, but also have an 18" I'll toss on it if the diameter of wood is getting larger quickly on a takedown,
When doing crane removals, I use the 18" so I can keep up and wait till the really big wood before hauling up the 372/24" bar.
When climbing for my buddy's crew and they send up their old Stihl 066 with the long bar for the trunk cuts I have the strong young'uns start it first.

Looks like it'll be small saws for a while for me: I got shots in my shoulders again today.
Doc says more PT and an MRi in a month to see how to fix what can be fixed.
But that's for the thread Chris started...