how to build a fence

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It seems fence posts just like power poles rot at just above and below grade line . The post most likely won't rot off but the bark will fall off and the sap wood will be gone in a few years .

After the spring monsoons are over I have a little project with some ornamental split rail I'm going to do .One of those "honey do " things .

The rails are likely over a hundred year old white oak I salvaged . When that time arrives ,I'll take some pictures .It isn't that hard to do .
 
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no chainsaw, well - i do not own one, NOR have i even had someone show me how to properly use one, AND -well - improper use can add to body damage. (power tools scare me)

I plan on stripping off the bark on the bases of the posts. then putting stone in the bottom of the hole and pea or small gravel (tamped down) in the hole to support the posts.

today is the bark stripping and gravel - I have the rails they are pressure treated 2x2's.

thanks for all the hints and suggestions - this is a FIRST for me
 
Well Hmm everbody has to start some place . This is the last one I built .All cedar but it is factory made rails and posts so it really doesn't show much .
 

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Seems like anything wooden around here rots or gets eaten by termites quickly. Even railroad ties! But I cut some rounds of osage orange and put them through the garden as stepping stones, and they've survived.

I hesitate saying that 'everyone' should own/use tools...some really shouldn't....but I have found that women were just never allowed or encouraged to find out how wonderful they can be. Makes life so much easier....almost anything is possible with the right tool! Sure, you have to be careful, BUT it's worth it.

You really don't know how to use a drill? So VERY easy, and very nice. Wait until you put together a metal shelf unit or something using your drill to put the screws in instead of a screw driver. Ha!

Sears always has some really nice little tool packs....and things like screwdrivers, ratchets, etc. have a lifetime guarantee.

I'm not usually fond of Black & Decker (maybe they're better now than they used to be) but I picked up one of their little cordless drill, 12V, I think at a garage sale a couple years ago. Surprisingly, I would HIGHLY recommend it. You probably wouldn't want to take on a barn raising job using it, but for around the house and small outside projects....it's been so nice.

If you decide to go a chainsaw route....get something good, but light...you'll use it alot more. My Jonsered 2036 is my absolute favorite.
 
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stripping the bark - i scored the bark with my little saw then used a chissel to chip away at the bark. I have an Auger that I may use to drill holes in the posts. I also have a Yankee hand drill/screwdriver.

Che, I guess you are right, i did not have the chance to use the power tools as that was done by the man of the house, well since he is not here anymore, i need to do things the way I can. I guess it builds stonger muscles to hand sink a screw. I know - Home depot has those saturday classes. i have bragged that I can fell a tree (small one) cut and split it with only a 1940's bow saw, a splitting maul and a 8 lb sledge hammer. BUT I am finding guys are not impressed with those facts.

OK back to the fence.

.
 

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A draw knife would be a great help in stripping those poles. It's still a bunch of work, but you wouldn't need to score and chisel them.
 
well, sounds like we can use a sawzall to cut the nails and screws holding the top 2x10 to the 2x4 its laying on then knock the 2x10 out and reattach the planter box with some 2x2's added at the top to retain some of the strength, should go down Monday. We shall see. The other work we did there was replace a couple stairway stringers, the landings and the 3 rotted posts holding the deck up. oh, and a small retaining wall of landscape ties with paving stones.
 

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hmm, if you let the wood dry, you should be able to easily pull the bark off. Less attractive to insects with the bark off, however, when drying.
The way you're doing it looks like a lot of work, a drawknife, as suggested, is the way to go, and a way to hold the post when using it.
 
You have to kind of tip your hat to the wizards that figured out how to utilize the center from a plywood veneer log by making landscaping timbers and fence posts out of them .One of the greatest ideas of the twentieth century behind sliced bread and beer in a can .
 
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todays progress.
 

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2
 

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3
 

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This took about 11 hours over two days (not counting the time to cut the trees), Cost in dollars, 11.49 for the screws and 3 five gallon buckets of stone. The rails were free as they were bowed and unuseable for HD. the trees, well they were in the yard. Tools used, Hammer, Chisel, hand saw, one power drill, shovel and an 8 lb mallet.


a fence that I make - PRICELESS.
 

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Applaud your effort, but without some treatment, rain water will be sucked into the end grain, and rotting will begin quickly. Nice pics.
 
That is really cool Shari, very nice job, and thanks for the pics!!!!!!!!
 
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so what should be done to seal it?
 
Get an exterior wood preservative, and slap it on with reckless abandon.
When it dries, do it again. Especially on the ends is where you should apply heavily. If possible do it soon before rain hits it. Thin pieces like that will start to deteriorate quickly. If the wood cracks, re-apply through the fissures. Rain is going to splash up from the ground as well. It wont take long to coat your fence. Again, keep putting it on the ends as it gets sucked in.
 
In Eric Sloane's "A Reverence for Wood", he mentions that about 200 years ago, during the very first attempts at wire fence, that the belief was that the fence should not cost money, it should make money. Instead of planting dead posts to rot, a tree should be planted that would yield fruit, nuts, firewood etc.

Nice fence, I like it.:)
 
Awesome, use willow and watch it grow, forget about rot. Keep adding water.

I have been toying with the idea of making a gate that is a frame with a planter box at the bottom and planting bamboo in it. Every year the gate would get taller.
 
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