How many of you are running ported saws

Honestly for most people/saws I've run into a consistently clean air filter and sharp chain is what most should be worried about. Not saying The Treehousers are in that category as I've met precious few, but most saws I've seen at other companys are badly in need of some basic, basic maintenance.

My personal saws are clean and sharp, but try to convince my employer to let his fellas clean and file the saws at the end of a day or early in the morning before work....HAH! All our saw maintenance to be done on site...and then he complains about service bills from our dealer because we're not allowed to do it ourselves, puhlease.

I've not ever run a modded saw...apart from a 200t without arrester, one day!
 
I never have either, and now after all this talk I am getting the itch. Is it best to do a woods mod on a brand new saw?
 
Or, better to port it right away, heat is their enemy and a moderately modded saw runs cooler, so it's better for them. :D
 
Question, what exactly does a woods port job consist of??

I have ported saws and have been happy with the way they have turned out . The only turn off to me was the increase in compression. It is nice, but over time it can be annoying on a work saw. Over the course of the day especially if you have a lot of short cuts to make which requires many starts that jerky starting due to the higher compression can play hell with your shoulder.

I have rebuilt many saws since I got into porting saws but have just left them stock and did a muffler mod to them. I didn't want to take the time to work over the cylinder. Muffler modding and a sharp chain and good bar is a good trade off to me instead of porting. For all practical purposes I suppose the porting I have done would be considered woods porting for a work saw.

Back to my question about the woods port. Does a woods port give you both increase in speed and compression along with torque with the racing port job carried to the next level or am I missing something on this woods porting catch phrase.

If I was to port or let's say alter a cylinder on a saw again. I would forget raising and lowering the exhaust and intake ports and just use a regular gasket for the cylinder to keep the compression and rpm's where it is at. I would widen out the the exhaust port on the sides for increased torque and leave it at that. This is what I look for most these days in a saw. Having the increased speed and compression is nice but it isn't everything.
 
You've basically got the gist of it as I understand it. Some guys will go more in depth on a woods mod then others. I think it's at the old Treehouse there's a thread on TW's modding of Brians 880 and my 460. Very good highly detailed thread.
 
The higher compression, increased torque, and greater rpms/chain speed are all what I have found when doing a mod on a work saw that includes altering the ports and decreasing squish. I also like to lighten the piston and have yet to have one blow out. I like the higher torque especially in saws used on larger wood.

I use the richer oil mix for some added protection, and 35:1 doesn't create a very noticeable smoke increase. Judging by how the plug looks, that mix ratio is fine.
 
Just muffler mods here. 192t that almost cuts as a 200 and been first out of the truck for 6 or 7 years now. Immense saw.

Also a 360 I bought second hand. Opened the muffler and it pulls 20" bar in hardwood like it wants more! My 036 in comparison is a steady girl.

I would say the two levels of work saw modding can be split between most peoples abilities.

Id say most guys interested in modding would be able to open a muffler and reset a carb and get huge improvements.

A smaller amount of saw guys would actually mod a pot. Far more advanced and more precision is needed so thats when paying for a mod comes in to it IMO.
 
Usually the answer that most people give to the question of whether a modded saw is harder starting or not, is no. One husky I have is harder starting, it takes longer to get enough mix in the combustion chamber for the initial explosion. Usually I have to pull the starter 8-10 times to get it to kick over in the morning. Once it is warmed up and has been in use, it's no longer that way, starts easily. I'd love to put a larger carb on it one of these days.

Anybody else have harder starting with their modded saws?
 
Been a day, so bear with me here, I think you raise the intake and lower the exhaust .040, 1mm, and widen the ports as much as you can. This keeps timing close and gives a better torque range without effecting much. Then a muffler mod to let it air out.
I may have the exhaust and intake backwards, I'll have to check for sure. Basically, raising and lowering increases RPM, widening increases torque. In a work saw, you want the torque.
 
I been called LOT worse :D, just LMAO. Thanks for the good laugh after all the plowing today.

Found TW's woods ported work saw video of the MS460.

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I dunno I suppose I have 40-45 saws last count .Several have been enhanced .Poulan 46 cc ,Stihl 200T .Stihl 038 Av ,038 Mag ,Mac 6-10 .

These all do better than stockers ,maybe not the hottest in the world but they bring a smile to my face .All the work done by myself . I don't however use a saw to make a living with.
 
Who removes their spark arrestor screens?


I cannot remove my screens as I work in wild land high risk fire zones. And I can tell you that it is a reality that you can start a fire up here in summer by not having the screen in .. Hell... You can start a fire with exhaust heat.. I can be fined if caught without. I can also incur the cost of the suppression of a fire I caused. Last one near my house was 33,000 acres at a cost of about $1,000,000 per 1000 acre.

Brian (Skwerl) did however do a muffler mod on my 200T to open up the exhaust. Little 200T was a screamer after that :D
 
Usually the answer that most people give to the question of whether a modded saw is harder starting or not, is no. One husky I have is harder starting, it takes longer to get enough mix in the combustion chamber for the initial explosion. Usually I have to pull the starter 8-10 times to get it to kick over in the morning. Once it is warmed up and has been in use, it's no longer that way, starts easily. I'd love to put a larger carb on it one of these days.

Anybody else have harder starting with their modded saws?

I had one like that. It was an 026. It was the only one of the few I ported that I had to pull over about 7 or 8 times to get it going . After that no problem. 026's are tempermental anyway which is why I only have one left for flushing small stumps really close to the ground
 
I don't know if they're really any harder to start or not .If they get used on a regular bassis I don't think they really are .They seem to like fuel little bit more though . It seems my souped 200 uses it up about twice the rate of my stocker .Not a big deal just more of a nusance .
 
Savage, Timberwolf did my latest 460 and it's an absolute beast. I have two other 46's and they're not anything close to the TW460.

Just a update:

Finally got hold of Brian TW so he could chime in over here for you northern canucks etc. He didnt follow the site to the new TH forum and said he will check into it.
 
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