hitchclimber

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From the look of it, that beeline hitch cord should be a lot shorter than it is. Don't you have to pull the hitch down a few inches before any slack is advanced?
 
You have the orange webbing strap girth hitched to the swivel which means that the webbing strap is pretty much always attached to your saddle.
Did you do this so you would not have another biner/link in the system?
It seems like I would want to be able to take it off easily.

What do you think?
 
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  • #33
Its always there but by girthing it onto the bottom it stays out of the way when I want to move my fh closer to me by hooking up to the upper part of the swivel. Make sense? sometimes hard to explain even with pics..
 
Yes it does make sense (at least to me) but then you have a loop of webbing flopping around on the front of your saddle. Seems like it could get caught up in something or even get in the way of your french prussik...
 
That's what I was figuring just wanted to know if there was any tricks/tips for doing it on the line was all.

I really like the looks of that set-up.
 
OTGBOSTON said:
yup, about four. I think if it was too short the spliced end of the climbing line would intefere with the hitch.
Click to expand...


Be careful when thrusting or footlocking a long way. The friction hitch, especially a french prussik, will get caught under your anchor and not set. Not a big deal if you can reach your knot, but definately something to be aware of. I used to use that system, but with a mickey mouse pulley and abandoned it when i had a few scares with my hitch getting stuck. Works better if your anchor is a tight spliced eye rather than a knot, but will still happen. I have a new system that I've been field testing for the last few months that I like. It's a bit gear intensive, but it works.

i set up my regular system (anchor hitch, french prussik) then attached to the middle point on my Versatile i attach a caribbeaner and two foot loop runner. On the other end i have it girth hitches to the lower attachment point of a Croll with another caribbeaner on the upper/side attacment going to a quick release microcender. Microcender goes to anchor side of rope, Croll to ascending side and it's all backed up by prussik. I'll get some pics tomorrow. It's working pretty well. I can unhook in mid air if need be but usually get to a limb first.
 
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  • #45
TreeRhino said:
Be careful when thrusting or footlocking a long way. The friction hitch, especially a french prussik, will get caught under your anchor and not set. Not a big deal if you can reach your knot, but definately something to be aware of. I used to use that system, but with a mickey mouse pulley and abandoned it when i had a few scares with my hitch getting stuck. .
Click to expand...

definately takes some time to get it dialed in. I've had a few scares myself:) With the tachyon and bee line it works much better than the fly and tenex. I use a distal hitch, which also helpls grab more.

I'd like to see that system you are describing
 
OTGBOSTON said:
Best practice, though not completely necessary.
Click to expand...


I assume to "switch over" you must open the bottom carabiner and remove it from the swivel eye. Is that not the same captive link that holds the loop runner.

So in essence, without bucking in, and making the "switch" you are not secured in for a brief second or two.
 
I had a version of this system that I could switch from long to short without ever being "unclipped.

I tied my friction hitch, then connected it to a pear biner, along with my spliced end of my climbing line. Let's call this the hitch-biner. On the bottom of that hitch-biner is a 30" sling with a carabiner at the end of it. I clipped that to the bridge on my Master II saddle. The whole setup is now floating 30" from the bridge on my harness.

There is ANOTHER 'biner floating on the bridge. We'll call that the bridge-biner. When I want the sytem short, I bring the hitch-biner down and open the bridge-biner, so now the hitch is floating just a 'biner's length from me. When I want the system long, I open the bridge biner again and let the bridge extend up to the end of the 30" sling.

I'm always secured and I can extend and shorten the system while hanging in mid air.

Does this one need a picture?

love
nick
 
NickfromWI said:
I had a version of this system that I could switch from long to short without ever being "unclipped.

I tied my friction hitch, then connected it to a pear biner, along with my spliced end of my climbing line. Let's call this the hitch-biner. On the bottom of that hitch-biner is a 30" sling with a carabiner at the end of it. I clipped that to the bridge on my Master II saddle. The whole setup is now floating 30" from the bridge on my harness.

There is ANOTHER 'biner floating on the bridge. We'll call that the bridge-biner. When I want the sytem short, I bring the hitch-biner down and open the bridge-biner, so now the hitch is floating just a 'biner's length from me. When I want the system long, I open the bridge biner again and let the bridge extend up to the end of the 30" sling.

I'm always secured and I can extend and shorten the system while hanging in mid air.

Does this one need a picture?

love
nick
Click to expand...


Good remedy Nick,

My only problem with that, is now you have a biner to biner link. Which is not really great in my eyes.
 
Agreed. Not great...but I liked it.

different topic- but why is biner-biner frowned upon, but biner to the little friction hitch rings (that people put on their bridges) is okay?

love
nick
 
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