Got myself in a pickle!!!

[Magnus]

FWIW this is the first time I've had a problem using rope. Had i gone outside to get the rope i normally use, everything would have been gravy. But i was lazy and just grabbed some of splicing residues I had leading around. But it's not like I remove hundreds of clutches a year either.

This is a good learning experience that did not cost much! Perfect! It is the best way to learn.
Next time you pay attention. Folded starter rope evenly distributed is what I use mostly too.
I rarely use piston stoppers as I have seen too much crap caused by them.
If I am to change a clutch I don't use stoppers. EVER!. I knock them off 99 times of 100. The last percent I do with wrench and socket. Special socket if needed...

 

[Magnus]

Easy enough yourself to make a wooden dowel that screws into the plug hole and jams the piston. Save a few pennies on not buying a plastic one.

These "Stick in" type stoppers go in the tool kit along with saw at purchase. You can buy them too, they are cheep.
Pay attention as they are not universal tools (neither is the bolt in).

It is not just the point of placement it is position of crank/rod and side pressure to piston that is important to look at.
If force is evenly distributed around piston there can still be damages to crank, bearings and rod.
Even worse if force is not correctly applied. Then piston sides or top also get a beating.
I have seen saws guy's break pistons, rods and bent cranks. And in doing it wrong and junked the saw in process.

 

[Jomo]

That I know best are your words Magnus, not mine.

I just know what has worked best on my own and others saws, when I yank clutches off, for a long time.

I don't doubt being an expert chainsaw mechanic yourself, and the fact plastic piston stops come stock in the tool kits of today's saws, that it's the preferred method period.

But that damage in your pic sure seemed similar to other pistons I've seen in saw shops from customers unaware all saws have reverse threads on their clutches.

Jomo

 

[Magnus]

There is no such thing as an "expert chainsaw mechanic"!
Just different levels on a learning curve...
I have seen way to much to think this "stick in tool" is a fool proof solution to a old problem that has been around forever.
However it beats the piston stoppers that are fixed/threaded.

Now... Stop using stoppers unless it is really needed and learn how to knock them of without breaking anything or put stress on crank!

 

[Szajer]

My Stihl ms 192 came with a piston stop locking tool.

I've no clue what's it's for. So much to learn. For a good part of my career the saws belonged to an employer -and so did their maintenance. Now that I'm currently building up a team of saws, I've got a lot of catching up to do.

 

[Jomo]

There is no such thing as an "expert chainsaw mechanic"!
Just different levels on a learning curve...
I have seen way to much to think this "stick in tool" is a fool proof solution to a old problem that has been around forever.
However it beats the piston stoppers that are fixed/threaded.

Now... Stop using stoppers unless it is really needed and learn how to knock them of without breaking anything or put stress on crank!

Yu mean like havin a shop bench and using a pneumatic impact wrench to spin the clutch off with the plug in using simple inertia alone?

Jomo

 

[matdand]

This is a good learning experience that did not cost much! Perfect! It is the best way to learn.
Next time you pay attention. Folded starter rope evenly distributed is what I use mostly too.
I rarely use piston stoppers as I have seen too much crap caused by them.
If I am to change a clutch I don't use stoppers. EVER!. I knock them off 99 times of 100. The last percent I do with wrench and socket. Special socket if needed...

Magnus, not sure how you would go about it on this model. There is no bolt or anything to put a socket to. It only has a little slot to stick a flathead driver and bang on, with a little arrow that says «off». You must know this anyway, just wondering...

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...Clutch-Assembly-for-Husqvarna-570-575-576.axd

 

[Magnus]

Yu mean like havin a shop bench and using a pneumatic impact wrench to spin the clutch off with the plug in using simple inertia alone?

Jomo

That works if you know what you are doing and pay attension. Greater risks involved and some engines don't like it at all, others very much.
I use a man powered solid socket wrench and knock it manually most of the times.

 

[Magnus]

Magnus, not sure how you would go about it on this model. There is no bolt or anything to put a socket to. It only has a little slot to stick a flathead driver and bang on, with a little arrow that says «off». You must know this anyway, just wondering...

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...Clutch-Assembly-for-Husqvarna-570-575-576.axd

Not screwdrivers. Use rods that you grind to fit. Don't forget to angle the point so you get as much surface to surface. No sharp ends or hard punches, just knock it.... Vibrations is what you are after more than the forces. Screwdriver handles often silent the tiny vibrations you want.
A hit on each shoe, go around and increase force if needed only.
Nothing you do with a saw is fool proof. It takes experience, curiosity and ability to ask. Even doing that the training can be ruff....

If you look in the center there are cut outs for tools, I cut out old sockets to fit.
You can find old bad sockets in flee markets for a couple penny's.

 

[Phased1]

Thanks gents for all the info.

I too jammed a cord in the exhaust port.
Got lucky though, no damage and got it free.
That damn learning curve can be a steep one