getting started in (light) rigging

[Sgriff]

Marl and half hitch are indeed two very different twists 👍

 

[MasterBlaster]

Exactly... What Stig is saying... Identify your bottle neck and address it or completely avoid it by common sense..

Here is a better shot of a limb (hard to tell it is over 1000#) with the marl and running bowline. This limb had to be cut in 1/2 for the mini to move.

Why leave those stubs?

 

[CurSedVoyce]

To keep the log from rolling down hill once felled. We also had it butt tied when it came time.

 

[pantheraba]

Cool trick, Stephen. Thx. And Thx MB for asking.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I use steel screw lock crabs that are never used for life support, only rigging. Since as we all know, screw locks are frowned upon for life support in tree work. I buy two different brands basically..
I can sometimes get them on Ebay.... And they work just fine. AMP product.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290509808924?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Or from WesSpur. Sqwerl turned me onto them. Kong Product.. Also work great. Rated 50kn as well.

http://www.wesspur.com/carabiners/screw-locking-carabiners.html
I have had great service from both. Only retired 3 of 20 just out of shear abuse on the mini mostly....
I will be possibly moving over to clips like August is putting in his zip line/speed line kit. But steel.

 

[pantheraba]

That led me to this. ...I will probably get several of these....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARABINER-S...soffType=SaleAndClearence&_trksid=p5731.m3795

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Those purple double sheeve pulleys I got from him as well for the z rig kit I put together.

 

[Raj]

Great price on those pulleys.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

I mark gear with electrical tape

- red for rigging
- lemon (yellow) for life support

 

[Spellfeller]

No matter which rigging gear you decide to purchase, it's very important to follow a few safety rules. Rigging gear is never to be used as climbing gear, and visa versa. Keep your rigging and climbing gear separate.

...I like to use gear that is clearly distinguishable between rigging and climbing.

I should add here that many inexperienced guys tend to make purchases that can serve multiple duties.....mostly in an effort to extend the dollar. This is OK....so long as the item being purchased does not cross over from rigging to climbing.

...And you probably already know this, but you should NEVER engrave your pulleys, carabiners, gaffs, or any other metal item. Engraving the metal will cause metal fatigue over time, which will result in equipment failure.

I mark gear with electrical tape

Thanks, guys.
I was aware of this, but I appreciate the color-coding/non-engraving advice!

 

[Spellfeller]

Alright, wise ones, I'm getting the sense that lots of folks feel the basic CMI blocks are a good value that are nearly impossible to outgrow.

Trouble is, I'm not sure which of these two would be best:

3/4", 25K MBS, 3.65#, 6.5" x 4", $95
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=0&item=1505

5/8", 28K MBS, 2.3#, 6.5x4in, $110
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=235&item=130

Am I crazy, or given that these are the exact same dimensions, isn't it worth the extra $15 for something stronger and lighter in the same form factor?!

 

[Limbrat]

Your right Jeff and unless you're like Joel (The Big Tree Man) in Lake City, you'll rarely need a 3/4" block in the tree and never for "light rigging".

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

I might be mistaken here, but matching rope size to block matters to a theoretical degree. Isn't the sheave shaped to cup the compressed/ flattened rope to a degree. A large rigging block, like the 3/4" capacity that I bought early on, probably don't preserve the 1/2" rope strength as much as a 1/2" or 5/8" block would. In a way, similar to not using a wire rope block with synthetic ropes, and vice versa...the wrong interface of sheave shape and rope shape.

thoughts?

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Larger bend radius .....

I have never needed a 3/4 block and I have done some good sized trees. Now If I lived in Humboldt..... Maybe diffy
5/8ths CMIs have always served me well. Ask yourself, would you, will you, or could you comfortably rig something heavier off a tree better than 2000 lbs.
Most trees can be rigged easily with a 1/2" rope..

 

[Sgriff]

3/4 block is not light duty by any means...😁

 

[candoarms]

Sean,

I don't believe that the shape of the sheave is as important as the bend radius provided by the sheave.

The large Rig and Ring (for example) provides no form-fitting groove for the rope. The most important factor with the Rig and Ring is the fact that when the two rings are sandwiched against each other, the bend radius offered is suitable even for our larger rigging ropes.

Joel

 

[Spellfeller]

Thanks, guys. 5/8ths it is!

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

Sean,

I don't believe that the shape of the sheave is as important as the bend radius provided by the sheave.

The large Rig and Ring (for example) provides no form-fitting groove for the rope. The most important factor with the Rig and Ring is the fact that when the two rings are sandwiched against each other, the bend radius offered is suitable even for our larger rigging ropes.

Joel

Bend radius is important for sure.

 

[Grendel]

If you're getting a block, personally, I wouldn't get anything but the ISC Spring Lock version.

There are some things about the screw lock blocks in general that I don't like. The upper sheave axle does not always shoulder into the side plate as much as it could, so you are left with the smaller threaded portion of the axle supporting the brunt of the weight in the whole rigging scenario. The Spring Locks are the same all the way through.

To be fair though the Spring Locks are held together with roll pins. With enough side load, you could shear one off and pop the side plate. It's a trade off, but I really like those Spring Lock full axle blocks.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I can tell you this.. If those 1/2 ISC compact blocks were available when I first started out, I would own one. It is on my list to purchase. Nice piece of kit.

 

[Spellfeller]

I may be officially chasing my tail now, though--in order of general awesomeness/best value/most room to grow--I feel like the current standings are:

Top
#1 ABR RIG AND RING LARGE: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=9012
#2 ISC 1/2" MINI ALUMINUM RIGGING BLOCK: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=235&item=14576
#3 CMI 5/8" STEEL ARBORIST RIGGING BLOCK: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=130

Bottom
TREESTUFF PORTAWRAP: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=11173

This video of Reg's (and Peter & Joel's earlier advice) was a major influence in the rankings:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-q9yxyS4BM

 

[candoarms]

Jeff,

You have a nice selection of gear picked out there. All of it will be useful to you for as long as you're in the tree business. Add a couple of Loopie slings and a few CMI heavy duty loop runners and you'll be ready to tackle some rigging.

Joel

 

[Grendel]

agree.

The Red 5/8" Spring Block is my personal fav.

 

[Sgriff]

Nothing light duty about any of my 5/8 gear...just sayin.

 

[Raj]

Ring and ring will do a lot of work.