Full vs Skip chain

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Busy! :lol:

With the new lady in my life and all my projects. It seems I never have much time to get on the interweb anymore. I'm tryin' to make an effort to check in here more often than before. :)

Gary
 
Before I stopped cuttin' as much as I used to... I was tryin' out full comp on bars out to 25" in the softwoods. Cuts like buddah with a sharp ass chain. I think my 044 is still wearin' a 25" Stihl ES bar with full comp on it.

I used to be a "full skip or nothin'" kind of guy... until one of my good buds from NorCal changed my mind. I've never had a true "climbing saw" so I used to pack an 028 with a 20" bar into the tree tops. What a PITA. LOL :lol:

I used to have full skip on that. But once I changed to full comp on the 25" and under bars... I noticed the saws cut way more efficient.

But on my longer bars... 28" and longer, I use full skip. :)

Gary

Great minds think alike...that's how I roll too pard:) I never saw a reason to run full skip when I was cuttin timber til I got into timber big enough to bolt on iron longer than 32".
 
True. Workman's comp rates in Wa agree: base rate given an Experience Factor of one are about $3.15/hr for tree service and $16 for logging.
 
I didn't realize it had gone up to $3.15/ hour. I just pay what my bookkeeper tells me I owe. I just told Erik to bump the bids up by a percent factor. Another reason for it, now.
 
Yes, it's what I'm using now. The name is 33RSF and the Stihl part number is 3953 000 1640
I'm about due for another roll soon. I'll call Gary this autumn when things slow down a little and get stocked up for next year.
 
What does the F delineate. Full skip?

I notice no difference between full and comp, which was what this thread is about. I do notice a extreme difference in how short a chain last being Oregon. I was used to the Stihl stuff. Gotta switch back fo sho.

Thanks for that number, Brian.
 
You're welcome, B. I also couldn't notice any difference in cutting between full comp and full skip, so I will stay with full skip since it's so much faster to sharpen. And as far as the Oregon, I'm not going to say "I told you so."
 
Lol, I know. I had to try.:)

I spun up the rest of the reel into loops the other day. Should last the rest of the year. I'll see if my family in upstate washington can get me a decent deal on a reel. Lemme know what you pay next time. My last Stihl reel was 270, but that was a while ago. The retail then was 480.
 
I lucked out. My dealer said he didn't need to make crazy money on it as he is just handing it right off to me. He marked it up a few bucks. I'll call and see what he wants now a days.
 
I've soon got to order a 123 driver chain of .404 for the 084 .Because it very seldom gets used it would take a coons age to wear out a chain .Now I will admit that Stihl is the better of the chain but in this case it will be an Oregon simpley for the fact that no matter who made them they won't stand up to a rock .At least that's what killed the last one .
 
NEED some advice!

I've got a job that's rare and unusual for me. I've got to remove two 42" oaks - actually just put them on the ground as saw logs. I've got a 360 with a 20" bar. It's done just fine on many 36" oaks. I know I could 'beaver' away at it with the 20". But, I'd like to run a 36". I haven't been able to find an 066 at a price I could afford. This job is so rare, I don't want to throw a lot of money at it! SO, the question is: Would a 36" with a skip chain work on my 360 for this job?


EDIT: I guess I could get it done with a 25" ... any thoughts?
 
If you make a deep face, and bore it, you should have no trouble whatsoever cutting a 42" dia tree with a 20" bar.

It might take you a minute or two longer that doing it with a 36" bar.

If saving a couple of minutes is worth the price of a 36" bar, go right ahead and buy one.
 
Thanks, Stig! I knew you'd have the answer I was hoping for. Does this make me a disciple of the short-bar school? :)
 
Go knock those two oaks over, we'll call that your initiation ceremony:D

A true short bar acolyte can easily cut trees the diameter of about 2½ times the length of his/her bar.

My personal best was felling a 36" maple with a 13" bar. I was clering some brush/small trees and the forester had marked that one to go. Too lazy to hike back to the truck for a bigger saw, so I beavered and borecut it. Took about forever, but I was paid by the hour.:lol:
 
I'm with Stig on this particular situation, though as a general rule I favor a better bar/diameter match. I'm not so sure you'd be happy with the performance of a stock 360 with that much bar...I know I wouldn't. At most, I'd go to 25".
 
We bought one last season, as an experiment.
Even with an 18" bar on it ( full comp chain) it is soooo slow in hardwood, that none of us wants to use it in the woods.

Great for climbing, though, a little longer in the cut doesn't matter near as much as in a falling/bucking situation.
 
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