The specs were experimental, and used buy a pro for 2 years, but I don't know how much time he put on it. He complained it wasn't as easy to start as a Stihl, which is generally true, so he liked to grab the 201t. But one day he called asking for another just like it because it got stolen and he was used to running it and like it. So that one in the video is the new version, basically the same, and I consider it a high torque work saw. The 20" bar is just for demo purposes. It was really at it's torque limit with that new .050 3/8lp chain in walnut. He compained again about how it didn't run as good as the first, but he hadn't got the carb tuned to how he needed. I had it tuned for a heavy work load like firewood cutting, but he just makes 1 or 2 little cuts here and there which requires a much leaner tune on the H and L for easy cold starts and low temp cutting. That's where auto tune is handy, but I never trust it to work properly with a ported engine, but apparently it does.I would be curious about the build specs on that 2511. Was it a built work saw or more of a hot saw? That is super impressive either way! Do they make an adapter to run stihl bars on the 2511?
I have a non m tronic 150, and gave it a mild muffler mod, kept the screen, and gave it 6deg timing advance, carb adjustment, and it really woke it up, love it, and much easier on the wrists and elbows one handed.What Brian said.
The muffler mod on the 150t makes it a whole 'nother saw. Mine is not an Mtronic.
It has a big overlap with the 200 range, so much so, it gets way more use than the 200 now
I set the piston with a piston stop, mark flywheel and case for reference of zero point, print out a timing wheel, affix to flywheel when determining amount of advance you have.Where the best method for timing advance? Use the wheel to figure out how much to remove then a flat file? Do you file the key or the actual flywheel?