Flying 201t! parts needed
- Thread starter TINYHULK
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #27
Typically once I get to 14in wood I’m either able to run a bigger saw from the bucket or can drop the tree. so it wouldn’t be abused in big wood a lot but having the capability is a big deal to me. I run my 201 with a 14in bar and it’s rare I get to the point that the bar is an inch or two too small than the wood I’m cutting.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
same way. run out of bar, up comes the bigger saw. once I cross 14", 60cc with a 20" bar. if I run out of bar again, next size up.
Nutball
TreeHouser
Some people will use their 193 as long as possible before finally going up a size. The 193 seems to handle abuse well, and stays cool at least in its stock form, and they have a huge empty pocket in the back where more cooling find could go if needed.
The Stihls may have a more durable and comfortable feel, and seem less jumpy with 3/8lp. I think I'd prefer a 150t or a Husqy 525T, over the 2511t if price was not an issue, but I don't have much experience with either and I'm not picky, so I like the 2511t well enough for now. I have a 525T, but I was breaking screw drivers trying to take it apart for mods since the screws are so tight. Now with parts so hard to get I've abandoned the idea of modifying it, so it sits in the box as a backup saw.
This is the hot saw version:
View attachment 2511t 20in Super Modified.mp4
The Stihls may have a more durable and comfortable feel, and seem less jumpy with 3/8lp. I think I'd prefer a 150t or a Husqy 525T, over the 2511t if price was not an issue, but I don't have much experience with either and I'm not picky, so I like the 2511t well enough for now. I have a 525T, but I was breaking screw drivers trying to take it apart for mods since the screws are so tight. Now with parts so hard to get I've abandoned the idea of modifying it, so it sits in the box as a backup saw.
The specs were experimental, and used buy a pro for 2 years, but I don't know how much time he put on it. He complained it wasn't as easy to start as a Stihl, which is generally true, so he liked to grab the 201t. But one day he called asking for another just like it because it got stolen and he was used to running it and like it. So that one in the video is the new version, basically the same, and I consider it a high torque work saw. The 20" bar is just for demo purposes. It was really at it's torque limit with that new .050 3/8lp chain in walnut. He compained again about how it didn't run as good as the first, but he hadn't got the carb tuned to how he needed. I had it tuned for a heavy work load like firewood cutting, but he just makes 1 or 2 little cuts here and there which requires a much leaner tune on the H and L for easy cold starts and low temp cutting. That's where auto tune is handy, but I never trust it to work properly with a ported engine, but apparently it does.
This is the hot saw version:
View attachment 2511t 20in Super Modified.mp4
SeanKroll
Treehouser
That's ridiculous!
Matt, you can put a Stihl bar and sprocket on the 2511t.
Matt, you can put a Stihl bar and sprocket on the 2511t.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Not certain.
Nutball
TreeHouser
The Stihl bar needs some modifications to fit and oil properly. Currently I'm running .050 3/8lp on mine. .043 is faster, but 1/4 is smoother. I don't know if .050 or .043 is fastest of the 1/4 pitch because the .050 teeth are huge, but may be more aggressive while the .043 teeth are almost too small.
Burnham
Woods walker
Nutball
TreeHouser
I often do that to better control how much I am advancing the saw through the cut when not levering on the spikes, but I also often realize I'm doing it and wrap my thumbs for the sake of increased safety.
View attachment 2511t torque ported.mp4
View attachment 2511t torque ported.mp4
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I have a non m tronic 150, and gave it a mild muffler mod, kept the screen, and gave it 6deg timing advance, carb adjustment, and it really woke it up, love it, and much easier on the wrists and elbows one handed.
I set the piston with a piston stop, mark flywheel and case for reference of zero point, print out a timing wheel, affix to flywheel when determining amount of advance you have.
Small sq file, remove part of key that is cast on the flywheel slowly and carefully, fit up to saw, and then work your way towards your amount of advance.
Clean the taper on the crank and flywheel with degreaser, do initial tighten of flywheel nut whilst holding flywheel in advanced position, then torque to spec, double check it hasnt moved and enjoy it.
Hope that helps.
Edited to add.
I have a small file set, so the 4mmx4mm file was used in the small space next to the flywheel key to remove the required amount from the cast key, and then tidied up with a fine round file to remove any scrapes, or square points so fatigue/ stress points are eliminated, you dont need to take much off, slow and careful, and work up to the required advance you want.
Important to retune the carb (remove limiters), or reset the m tronic if the saw your doing this on has m tronic, ie a 661 etc.
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too much is when you go to start it and it stings your fingers by not letting you pull the pull cord 
.
actually too much happens before that but I digress.
due to the manufacturing process, there is a bit of variation between saws on their timing numbers, some may come with more advance, others less, so rule of thumb generally is 4-6 deg advance gets you some worth while gains and fills out the torque a bit.
If your building a race saw, then timing light, and knowing exactly what you have to start with , and where you want to end up is the way to go, but most dont go to that trouble, thus the general suggestion.
I did the 150 and early 201t as they were known to have some pretty poor timing numbers to begin with, the rest of the saws I have, I have just left standard, and happy with what they offer, if I need more saw, i go up a size.
.actually too much happens before that but I digress
.due to the manufacturing process, there is a bit of variation between saws on their timing numbers, some may come with more advance, others less, so rule of thumb generally is 4-6 deg advance gets you some worth while gains and fills out the torque a bit.
If your building a race saw, then timing light, and knowing exactly what you have to start with , and where you want to end up is the way to go, but most dont go to that trouble, thus the general suggestion.
I did the 150 and early 201t as they were known to have some pretty poor timing numbers to begin with, the rest of the saws I have, I have just left standard, and happy with what they offer, if I need more saw, i go up a size.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #42
Eventually I want to get in to porting. Been doing some research in it all but I need to focus on my climbing work and saw repair and maintenance for awhile before I start buying grinders and aftermarket cylinders
Nutball
TreeHouser
I think Mastermind takes some timing out of some saws as they about have too much, and leaves it stock on others. I think older stihls had a lot of room for improvement with 8 degrees for idle, and 16 for higher rpm. More timing can make them run hotter.
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