Firewood

You get into to some of that stuff and old farts like myself use "old school" terminoligy. Like welding rod.We used to call 7024 as jet rod,7028 which is a variation of 7018 as atomic arc .11018 as T1 rod etc .

Certain specialty steels such as stress proof ,Thompson shafting and others may or may not have a degree of weldability .Any more I have to look them up to find out , forgot .

Tool steels like 4140,A2 or o2 can be hardened or normalized a zillion times if you do it right .Mild steel can never be hardened unless you infuse some carbon into it .--and it goes on and on .
 
A friend of mine just bought a rotary type wood splitter. I guess they've been on the market for awhile. It has some kind of flywheel in it that builds up energy and then a shaft rams the wood. You have to push two levers to initiate the splitting, a safety release and then what starts the ram moving. The ram moves quite fast. I didn't see it splitting wood, but he started it up and showed the operation. I thought the need to use both hands which is required as you have to hold the safety down when you push the other lever, is a nuisance, but I suppose you'd get used to it. My first thought was wondering if you can disconnect the safety. It's potentially dangerous though with how fast the ram takes off. Safety glasses definitely a must. Anyway, he says he likes it. Not sure what the real advantage is with a splitter like that, but maybe you can get away with a smaller motor. His is rated to twenty tons.
 
Seems the safety laws usually require having two hands on the controls in order to keep your fingers out of dangerous spaces. Kinda hard to grab the piece of wood being split if both hands are required to hold levers.
 
Brian, that's what I thought too, no free hand to help support the wood if needed. With the speed in which that ram moves though, you probably don't want your hands near.

Not that type splitter, but a friend of mine's son sustained a leg fracture when a wood chunk flew out from the splitter that he was using, or maybe it was the whole chunk. :O
 
Running a little behind on putting up our wood but I have 5 cords of storage space with no tarps required, happy camper
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I did the tarp thing last winter, what a pain! After I go move the lawn sprinkler, eat some cheerios, clean up the garage and put new rotors and brake pads on the ole lady's car I am going to start a material list for a new woodshed.

Me and the pup spent yesterday pillaging the forest.

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Who's burning pine? Doug fir and larch here. I sold about a cord and a half of split pine last week for $125, just to get rid of it. At that price, listed for sale on the internet, it almost caused a world wide internet crash. Phones were rings, text notifications were going off and the internet classified adds were blowing up!

How much does firewood sell for in other places? It's running everywhere from $150-$300 a cord around here.
 
I'll burn some pine early and late season. No issue with it here.

Prices in my area are similar $150-300. The low end being pine or 'mixed' cords. The high end being birch or straight fir.

That's Canadian pesos too.
 
I like pine for camp wood but I've burned it at home. Love me some Doug-fir though! If you're building a shed, watch the scrap yard for cat walk material, that's what most of mine is, air circulation all around! Any day cruising the Woods with the dog is a good day. I gotta clean up the wood pile at home! This is most but not all of it
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Burned pine and cedar last year. Not many folks parting with oak right now. Keep the chimney clean and the pine dry, burn it hot, no worries. Pine prices are about 150 per cord here. Just so much of it around, most people will just go harvest themselves. It's already cut down....
They come pick up mill slash, saw dust, wood shavings.
We still have the Goodman and Cole You Buck it and Truck it pile the neighbors feed off of for free.ro
 
You need you exhausting chimney gases at the very top of the chimney to stay hot enough to not start to deposit in the chimney. Secondary combustion of volatilized gases contains a lot of energy, but only occurs when you burn hot enough ( a good stove design helps).

I've had a guy tell me that they have the secret way of burning a bit of wet wood in with their dry wood. I told him he was just lowering his temperature, increasing his chance at creosote build-up, and using a lot of the heat from dry wood to boil the water out of the wet wood. He said 'oh'.

As strange as it seems, a lot of people don't know that too cold or too hot is not good.
 
Creosote sucks, I use some creosote destroyer that is suppose to help make chimney cleaning easier. With my old school woodstove I clean the chimney at least once every two weeks.
 
That's a lot of cleaning. Sean pretty well nailed it. And I am now a WETT certified sweep and inspector(got my full cert in the mail here this last week). So my agreement should hold some weight. Lol.
 
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