check this truck out

  • Thread starter Thread starter darkstar
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 100
  • Views Views 10K
All right, looks like I'm going to have to explain it. I was hoping you'd figure it out on your own, but now it will be more difficult because you have false beliefs stuck in your head.

Standard open rear end, 4.10 gears. Normal operation- turn the driveshaft 4.1 turns and both rear wheels make one turn. On a sharp turn, the outside tire will turn more and the inside tire will turn less, but it will still end up equalling two tires making an average of one revolution for every 4.1 turns of the driveshaft. So if the inside tire turns a half a turn, the outside tire turns 1.5 turns. If you lock one tire then the other tire will make 2 turns for every 4.1 revolutions of the driveshaft.

The only way your method will work is on something like a go cart or fertilizer spreader where only one rear wheel is powered and the other wheel freespins. But if there is a differential then the revolutions need to go somewhere.

And before you start arguing how I'm wrong and making yourself look dumb, I suggest you wait till tomorrow and go try it with one of your many vehicles first. ;)
 
Or if the cover is off. Take the ring gear tooth count and divide by the pinion tooth count.
 
Ah shit, Dave said trust him; I'm wrong!

I've always done it the second way (count teeth) because I've been looking for abnormal wear or water damage.


I was still right on that lion tailing damnit! :lol:
 
Nay.

Hold the pinon steady, both tires off the ground with an open differential. Spine one tire, the other tire spins the opposite direction at an equal speed.

Thats why you have to leave 1 tire on the ground, only jack up 1 side with a open rear diff.
 
That statement was in reference to holding the pinon still, and spinning the tires, not the spin test.


In my mind I was picturing the front axle of the tractor, when I spun a tire one way with the driveshaft locked.


False conceptions!
 
That statement was in reference to holding the pinon still, and spinning the tires, not the spin test.


In my mind I was picturing the front axle of the tractor, when I spun a tire one way with the driveshaft locked.


False conceptions!
Let you slide just this one time man.
But well be expecting better from ya from here on out:lol:
 
garbage motor. I served as a light/med diesel mechanic in the Marine Corps and the Humvees have 6.2 and 6.5 motors. You can run faster. I'd rather an old ford 6.9 head cracker.
 
get a CUMMINS!!! only advantage to the old gm stuff is the non turbos can burn alternate fuels with little modification other than that they suck. Cummins is tried and true.
 
Thats an AWSOME motor, not that great on fuel, but bullet proof!
The trannies are iffy, but thats common in that era.
I LOVE the utility body!!!!
Pull what skid steer? It wont even know it's back there!!!
It's easy to turn up the pump and get a bit more power out of it, just don't get crazy.
Fuel mileage is the only kicker on this one, I am thinking 12-14MPG beng what it is.
But the motor is right, and the miles are right. Look away Jerry!
 
Looks OK, def. used. 115k on the motor is nothing, there is guys on other sites I visit with over 250k and no serious work done. Trannys are junk though, I've heard them toasting in daily drivers let alone work rigs. They tow decent, not going to make any land speed records though. If you can get it cheap go for it. Your a little to late on the truck hunt, my buddy just sold a MINT 1997 F350 w/7.3 under 90k miles.
 
Thats a good truck. Only bad thing is the heavy utility body and duallys will really bring down fuel mileage but it will pull up to 12,000 lbs. well.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #48
I would scrap the utility body but keep the refill tank, it is much needed.
Yall lemmie know if yous finds somthuns better yallll.
 
Back
Top