572

cory

cory

Tree House enthusiast
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Old 372s were awesome in their day. Then I went to 576s instead and they are a very good, dependable saw. Therefore, they are no longer made. So I got a 572. It is smaller, lighter, and cuts a tad faster than the 576. The off/choke switch is not at all intuitive after decades with on/off switches.

My question is: on a warm saw, how do you lock the throttle partially open so it starts (easier) at a high idle speed rather than (more difficult) starts at idle speed. The manual says push the switch to choke then to off position to lock the throttle but that does not work.
 
^this is how it is with my 550xp and 545 and I would think the same would be true with a 572.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
Altissimus said:
I believe if you hit the choke switch open , then push it back in it should be on high idle (until you gun the throttle)
Click to expand...

Yes, that is how it is on the 576, which has a both a choke lever and an on/off switch. But not the 572, which has only one lever which is supposed to do it all.
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Pull lever up to choke, push it down to shut off engine
 
Many saws with a combo switch will lock fast idle with full choke and hold fast idle even after pushing the switch back to the run position until the trigger is squeezed.
 
I did have one of those but sold it because it had the chip instead of hi lo screws. Never needed high idle starts. I do remember up was choke down to run (which had high idle) until you throttled. All the way down (springed momentary) for off. My guess is if need high idle start on warm saw , up for choke without pulling , down to run without touching throttle then pull , should be high idle
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
I've had good luck with chip saws, the 576s all had em.

Anyway I will try your suggestions, I haven't had access to the saw since I posted this, gracias
 
Once I run the 572xp for a bit and get the saw nice and warmed up its always barely a half pull to get it started again for the rest of the day. IF you are experiencing difficulty restarting it after it’s been thoroughly warmed up then something is wrong. IF instead it’s a Chinese kit saw then sum-ting-Wong
 
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  • #16
Frankie said:
Once I run the 572xp for a bit and get the saw nice and warmed up its always barely a half pull to get it started again for the rest of the day.
Click to expand...

Basically true here, as well. But if the saw is thoroughly warm and then sits for 10 minutes, choking it is not correct but starting it with no extra throttle needs several pulls because it wants to start but doesn't have enough juice. Starting a warm saw with more than 1 pull is unacceptable for me.

You claim to be a 572 guru afaik, does it have a throttle lock position?
 
3 positions. Choke, Run, Kill.
Pull up to choke, it stay's there. Down one notch its in running position with fast idle.
Press down from running position to engage kill circuit. Returns to run on its own and no need to hold it in until its dead..

To test function.
Pull up to choke, it stay's there. Don't pull engine. Down one notch to run position with fast idle.
Pull throttle you hear it click.
If not somethings wrong.
 
Last edited:
cory said:
Basically true here, as well. But if the saw is thoroughly warm and then sits for 10 minutes, choking it is not correct but starting it with no extra throttle needs several pulls because it wants to start but doesn't have enough juice. Starting a warm saw with more than 1 pull is unacceptable for me.

You claim to be a 572 guru afaik, does it have a throttle lock position?
Click to expand...
I don’t know about being a 572xp “guru” but I can make them run strong. There is no throttle lock that I’m aware of, everything is done with the master lever. If you find your warm saw to be too cold to light up with one pull after 10 minutes then use the warm start procedure found in the manual
 
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  • #20
Thank you Magus for the clear info.

I tried it and my confusion is due to the fact high idle speed is barely above idle speed. They are virtually the same. High idle causes the chain to barely move around the bar whereas at idle speed, the chain won't move around the bar.

Im used to a high idle where the chain moves at a fairly fast speed around the bar. Like fast enough to kick back if given the opportunity.

Hopefully I'll get used to it. Perhaps the very slow high idle for starting is ultimately superior to a fast high idle.

All I know is that having to pull a warm saw more than once drives me nuts. It's why I got rid of 372s, they became hard to start. 576s start well and reliably.
 
When all fail, read manual. Or as it should be with saws: Read manual first then get to it...
I find reading manuals interesting especially those I read in Swedish and Eng. They are never the same...

It is same with 372's and all other saws. Good to use in hot starts same as described for 572.
If its hot as in operation temp after a few cuts its rarely needed, but if it sit and cool for a bit then its great to have.
I never had a 372 stat was hard to start. Never run the Xturk though, that may be it...

A thing to remember with auto tunes is they remember, learn and compensate so a failed start can give ripple effects to all starts.
 
I'm undecided. I've had zero issues with my Mtronic saws. I've also had zero issues with my quality standard carb saws. I'm not a wrencher, but I don't like being tethered to Stihl to get the computer fixed. Maybe I want to fix it myself, or maybe I want to take it to an indie shop. I should have that option.
 
I have nothing against it. Its a good thing especially the ignitions with adapting/floating timing and less set parameters...
Just don't get me started on stratified engine/X-torq.. That set back saws 40 years in its evolution..
 
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