335 xpt

  • Thread starter Thread starter rskybiz
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It's an amazement to me that this type oil pump works at all . Pretty simple, just a shaft with a flat spot .Stihl's got a leg up on this type though as the shaft in addition to rotating also recipricates .A fact I only recently within the last year or so was even aware of .
 
I might be misreading your post, Al, but that Husky shaft also reciprocates, the cam shape at the end rotating against the little rounded flow adjuster knob makes it go back and forth. That is how the flow gets adjusted, hitting at different areas of the cam gives more or less back and forth movement. I believe that the flat part catches the oil. At least on my model, anyway....
 
Well I could be wrong but as I remember that shaft was not cut at an angle which in fact would allow it to have that pumping action as it rotated against the bumper screw .

I was under the impression that what was happening is that the adjustment would effectively change the amount of shaft that was imbeded in the pump body and thusly regulate that volume .More pump exposed,more flow .Then again I could be reading something into it . I've got an old shaft in my bench drawer .I'll take a peek in a day or so . Now I'm talking strictly the 335 ,I have no idea about any other Husqvarna pumps because that's the only one I ever fiddled with .
 
I recall looking at the 333 pump and asking myself how it worked, being confused, then noticing the angle that you speak of on the end. Then it made sense what the spring on the shaft ends purpose was. I dunno, they might have changed it for the 335, but I'd bet that yours has the angle too.
 
Didn't want to start a new thread for one question so I thought I would put it here.

Son-in-law bought a reconditioned Husky 435 x-torq. When you tighten the side cover it will not allow the chain to move. Loosen the cover a little and you can then move the chain by hand. I think the cover is too loose though to start the saw and use it.

Never messed with a Husky before. Seems like it might be missing a spacer or something to keep the cover from pinching the chain.

Any ideas???

Dennis
 
Usually when a chain doesn't move after tightening the side cover, there is something misaligned with the chain on the sprocket. Chain brake fully disengaged?
 
Jay, yes - the chain brake is disengaged. It looked like the side cover was lined up the way it should be.

Came with a 90-day warranty from the store. We decided the best thing to do is return it. :)
 
If it was machined to thin, but that's a lot to thin! I think the return was the wise move, never heard of anything like that!
I fought and fought with a 455 one time trying to get the clutch cover on, finally got mad and went to bed. Next morning I pulled my head out of my butt, released the brake and it went together fine.
 
Also, if you don't have the bar lined up over the tension nub correctly, it can rack it and the chain won't move. The proper bar for the saw would be something to check.
 
The chain tensioner on all my Stihl's are "on the saw". The sliding mechanism on this Husky was on the side cover. Seemed more difficult to line everything up and get the cover started. Almost like needing a third hand. JMO
 
My first post to this forum. IF you had tole me that you hafta remove the PISTON, ROD, and CRANKSHAFT to remove this confounded oiler, I'd have not believed you!!! Thanks to this forum, and the others above who posted pics, I just fixed a Husky 335XPT. What was wrong with mine was a huge wad of sawdust in the elbow, right BEFORE the pump. I bought this nice little arborist saw for 40 bucks, and it ran perfectly. But, shortly after getting home, I DISCOVERED that the oiler did not work. I cleaned the bar groove, fired it up, with the bar off, and NO OIL. I read for a long time, on this forum, and cleaned out the oil tank with pre mix, tried brake parts cleaner, to get SOMETHING to move through the oil pump. No go. I dove right off into it, Pulled the motor from the plastic housing, pulled the bottom off the crankcase, and finally got to the oil pump. Fascinating little bugger. I just got it back together. ROPE saved the day. (Pile some rope into the spark plug hole, to hold the piston still, so you can get the clutch off) Anyway, she runs good now. Need an air filter. I bought that saw, in lieu of a nice Stihl 192t or 200t. It was from Craigslist. The guy I got it from said he was too old to pull the rope any more. Anyway, it's raining now. Going to have to sharpen, knock down the rakers a bit, and then she will be ready for service!! Thank all of you who posted pics, and instructions. I also figured out how I could have fixed it without all that trouble. I could have REMOVED the clutch, and the little worm gear, and the oiler adjuster, while holding the END of the wheel, (wheel on the oil pump) and slid the wheel to the left, and dug the sawdust out of the elbow, with the oil pump shaft moved out of the way. But, hey, that would be a bit of work to explain, unless you had been into one of these. Thanks for all the help above. ~ Nate
 
Yeah you have to field strip them .Like I said before failure is normally a 7 or 8 dollar shaft or a 4 dollar worm gear but if a shop did it you have a hundred dollar repair bill .

Speaking of which I've got three in the shed the tree trimmers got frustrated with that I've never done a thing to .Two out of three run but none oil .
 
OK, Al, here is a more detailed explanation of how I could have fixed mine, IF I had known that the elbow was all clogged up. If the oiler rotates still (That is it is not bent) then here is what might work: Remove the clutch. Remove the plastic worm that rotates the oiler. Reach your finger in there, and see if it rotates freely. IF it does, then this has a high chance of working. THEN remove the oiler adjustment screw (Not all the way, but enough to let the oiler move to the left, about 1/2") Then use a small drill bit, to unclog the elbow, (through the oil hole). IF you have already removed the flywheel, and the 2 allen head bolts, on the right side of the saw, (The ones that hold the dog and chain catcher), then you can usually pry the large plate on the right side of the saw, out from the saw enough to access the NIPPLE where the hose goes, that sucks oil from the oil tank. With the hose removed, you can now use a LONGER drill bit, and work from both ends, to clean out the elbow. Spray pressurized cleaner through. Both directions. At re-assembly HOLD the oiler to the right, against the spring, while you tighten the oiler adjustment screw all the way in. Now you can let go of the oiler. I backed mine off 3 turns, (more oil) I don't know if it will help, but this will unclog the elbow, if that is where the stoppage is. IF you need to replace the oil tube, or the clunk in the tank, you can do it all from here. Just cut the end of the new tube at a diagonal, and insert it in the wall of the tank. Catch the end, with needle nose pliers, and pull it on through. I also found my clunk was a bit stopped up. If this helps you, well then great. The above fix won't help if you have a bent pump. A stripped out worm on the plastic connector from the clutch to the pump wheel, could indicate a bent pump. IF this helps you, then that is what I posted it for! (faster, and easier than pulling the whole thing apart!) ~ Nate
 
The oil pump shaft will also break on those. Might be a good idea to replace it if you are tearing it down. One thing that is a little surprising on those saws is that there doesn't appear to be any type of gasket between the two halves of the crankcase, just four bolts that hold the metal faces together. I mean no regular type gasket or remnants of gasket goop from the factory. It is the same on other brands of clamshell designs that I have worked on, like the small Zenoahs/Redmax. I always put a sealant goop between the faces when assembling them, figure it can't hurt. Breaking those down is a chore , but it doesn't seem quite the drastic measure after having done it a few times and become familiar, somewhat less a pita, but it sure does make access to the oil pump on other type saws, like ones right under the clutch, seem like a breeze.
 
The little rascals seem to cut okay they just have oiler issues . I like the balance on them ,don't like plug wire that gets banged around eventually baring the plug end to shock the chit out of you .Nor the muffler that they always loose the guard to fry your leg,arm .
 
Well, I cannot say for sure. But mine needed DIGGING. I mean, serious digging by hand, with a drill bit. It was as gummed up as could be. It was real hard fine sawdust, with some sort of oil, that had sort of locked it up. I'm a pretty relentless. (That's good and bad!) So, it got fixed! I also washed it out with JOHN DEERE brand spray parts cleaner. It works good now! (Whew!) I guess it might depend on how long it was sitting, in a clogged condition.
 
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