28" and 32" Stihl Bars

460 pushes a 28" very nicely. I wouldn't go larger though, I use a 660 with a 36". Prefer the 460 with a 25" on it which is even better. Saws are definitely a preference thing IMHO. Pick the saw for the type wood and occasion is what I follow.
 
Skip chain is a lot easier to maintain, for sure. Been running skip so long that when I see a saw with full comp chain it looks 'busy'.
 
I never really thought of skip/full as a performance issue but more as a wear and tear issue, but then again they could be the same thing.
 
Skip I suppose is a matter of debate .Quite frankly I've ran longer bars both ways ,skip and full and in our hard woods and find little difference .You only have half the cutters to file on skip but then again in theory it would only hang sharp half as long .

Now I should think on this matter of a 460 and a 32" it certainly should have enough ballz to pull a 32" with skip .I do so periodically with the souped 038 mag and have no issues of running out of power .A 460 has about 4-5 more ccs' than an 038 mag .
 
Skip seems to work better in punky wood, like these things we have here called Himalaya sugi, a kind of cedar from a place in the world where the population density is a couple people for every ten miles, the part that is habitable. The growth rings are like an inch wide. Full comp the chain tends to more load up in the cut with the larger ones.
 
I sure they get about the same thing on these big west coast softwoods .I personally have probabley cut less than a dozen pine type trees in my life .Having been used to a life time of hardwoods I'm not too fond of it .They can jam up a saw full of chips in a heart beat .Plus you get pine sap all over everything .Lawdy at the end of the day it looks like you wallered in a pig sty .You about have to bathe in kerosine to get the stuff off the bod not to mention your britches and the poor old saw .
 
Carrying all the chips out of the "chip channel" is the issue I see with long bars . Takes more Hp to power a full comp chain and move the associated chips from the wood.
 
They won't fit without either making an adaptor or buying one which is pretty cheap .Baileys has them by the hundreds .

FWIW you can just about stick a Stihl bar on anything if you have the adaptors .
 
barring the removal of chips in the kerf, i have heard that full comp can be a faster cut vs. full skip. this depends, of course, if the cutter teeth are sharp. i do know that you ding just one cutter tooth on a full skip, this will decrease your efficiency totally. you would think a full comp, very sharp, would allow your saw to work half as hard with twice the amount of cutter teeth. the drawback, of course with full comp on a long bar is the mega amount of cutters to sharpen. what's you guys take on it?
 
If the saw has enough grunt there really is little difference between full and skip or at least not on hardwoods .Now a low ground level stump cut skip does better .Skip I've heard does better on the PNW type Douglas firs etc .

Sure skip you only have half the cutters but logically you'd have to file twice as often so that's a moot point .Now it certainly is not my favorite activity to file 36" of loop of .404 but it just comes with the territory so there's no sense whining about it .
 
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