200T no one can fix local

Part #5 (stihl book calls it Inlet control lever, now I know ) is what I lifted or bended up just a tad to allow more fuel, the part that lifts on the center of the diaphragm. On the right side of it, just lift very carefully till it is just above even (NOT above even of the carb either) just alittle above even on both sides of the area around it. No need to unscrew anything, just remove carb top and diaphragm to get to it, leave rest in place. If you go to far it will flood it out.

200carb.jpg
 
Skwerl said:
They are plastic caps that fit over the adjustment screws. There's a tab on one side so the screw is limited in travel, less than one full revolution total movement. your best bet is to shave off the tit on the side of the limiter cap so that it can turn a full 360 degrees. It's easiest to get to it by simply removing the carb from the saw first. Takes about 3 minutes.
Click to expand...

Or you can just twist the crap out of it.
I suppose grinding off the tab is mo beta.
Three weeks three sprokets.
All husky's.
Things come in pairs plus.
 
TreeTrim said:
Part #5 (stihl book calls it Inlet control lever, now I know ) is what I lifted or bended up just a tad to allow more fuel, the part that lifts on the center of the diaphragm. On the right side of it, just lift very carefully till it is just above even (NOT above even of the carb either) just alittle above even on both sides of the area around it. No need to unscrew anything, just remove carb top and diaphragm to get to it, leave rest in place. If you go to far it will flood it out.

200carb.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
:beerchug::beerchug:
 
I bent the control lever up a little bit and it seemed to help. I didn't get a chance to do any work, just run the saw in front of my house for a little bit. The thing I did notice was if I turned the saw up side down it ran lean (enough to make the chain start moving), but it didn't shut off, which is good. Any ideas why it would run lean up side down, and run fine right side up?
 
Either a crank seal starting to leak or a bad carb. I've had a couple bad carbs that acted EXACTLY like a crank seal leak but slap a new carb on there and they ran perfect.

Last carb I got for a 200T was about $65 I think. Make sure you get the older style with both jets adjustable. Stihl tried putting fixed jet carbs on the 200T for a couple years and they caused a bunch of saws to burn up. I think the newest ones have both jets adjustable but the main jet may be smaller.

I'll try to remember to call my local dealer next week and ask him. He knew exactly which carb to give me for the 200T and kept a few in stock.
 
200T carb

Skwerl said:
Either a crank seal starting to leak or a bad carb. I've had a couple bad carbs that acted EXACTLY like a crank seal leak but slap a new carb on there and they ran perfect.

Last carb I got for a 200T was about $65 I think. Make sure you get the older style with both jets adjustable. Stihl tried putting fixed jet carbs on the 200T for a couple years and they caused a bunch of saws to burn up. I think the newest ones have both jets adjustable but the main jet may be smaller.

I'll try to remember to call my local dealer next week and ask him. He knew exactly which carb to give me for the 200T and kept a few in stock.
Click to expand...

I'd appreciate it if you made that call, I don't have a dealer that I go to regularly or one that I trust. If my problem is the crank seal is it hard to replace, and can I tell if it's bad by looking at it?
 
I hate to admit it but I've never replaced a crank seal. Supposedly they aren't hard though. You can check for a leaking seal by spraying carb cleaner or wd-40 or something on the crank seal while the saw is running. If it's sucking air then the rpms will change when the spray hits the leak. The sprocket side is relatively easy to check since you can pull all that stuff off. The flywheel side is a bit tougher. ;)
 
I made sure mine didn't do as top notch described even before fixing it. Mine didn't do it before or after the fix.
 
The easiest way I have to found to change a seal is by using a drywall screw as a puller . Just take a sharp punch or ice pick and poke a little hole through the metal part then screw about one thread of the screw in .Get out your Hillybilly socket set ,commonly known as Channel lock pliers and pull it out .

Oil the inside of the new seal and tap it in place with a long socket .Drive it in straight .
 

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Well it got above zero out so I took the baby Stihl for a test drive .Sounds like I need to re kit the itty little carb too . Cuts like a scalded ape--for about 20 seconds . Typical stiff diaphragm syndrome . Restart ,runs another 20 at wide open ,forever at half throttle . Could be a funky carb but I doubt it .

I have 18 kits coming the first of the week with three for this carb . .
 
I think I ordered those kits Fri .from MFG supply .Monday is MLK day I should get them Tues I suppose . They were short some and called back they wouldn't be in for a couple of weeks .Tilley HL's I think .

I have a couple of those microscopic sized Zamas to fix besides the 200 .

Lawdy that thing is about the size that would go on a pizz ants motor scooter .:lol:
 
Son of a Bisquick . Little did I know those dang C1 dinky Zama carbs have about 40-11 different models . One would think they would be like Walbro or Tillotson where for example an HS is an HS not some special model .Not Zama .

Damnit now I get to order more carb kits because the ones that came yesterday are not correct .:( mumble ,grumble .
 
Which carb kit Al did you get and for which carb?

I got RD 69 complete repair kit for the S61 Zama.
I haven't installed it yet to see if I got the right one either. But the person at the shop said it was the one.

Here are others.
S126
S128 Japan
S127
S129 Japan
S61E, C1Q-S61D
S108A, C1Q-S108 Japan
S96B C1Q-S96A
S109A C1Q-S109 Japan
S61D A B C
 
Guy at the saw shop yesterday told me the s126 was the carb I wanted if I had to replace one on a 200T. The Stihl number is
1129 120 0653.
 
It was entirely my fault for not paying attention .I assumed a C1 kit would fit everything ,not so .

The 200T carb is a model C1Q s32 which does take an rb-69 kit . The other dinky carb was for an Echo hedge trimmer with a model C1 U -k27B carb .

Good heavens there must 50 variations of this carb and a dozen different kits .

The 200 T carb is a giant compaired to the Echo trimmer . . What I did learn was a letter s designates Stihl --K for Echo etc . .

Just for laughs after I pack in some firewood I have an HU Tilley from an 029 I'm going to see about if it might be adapted . I'll get the correct kit though soon for the Zama .
 
It was an HT Walbro but to fit it would be a pain the rear .

However low and behold in all my junk danged if I didn't find a good diaphragm for the Zama .

Hot dang old Al is in the 200 T club with a runner and a fine one it is .:D
 
I did a small job a couple days ago and my 200 did awesome. Adjusting the fuel lever in the carb did the trick. It's not running lean when I flip the saw over anymore:lol: The only thing is it starts on the third pull most of the time instead of the first one like it used to. I'll take this over not idling worth a damn anyday8) Now I wish there was more work around here.:(
 
Without seeing that thing my guess is the diaphragm is starting to get stiff . As such the movement of the diaphragm is resticted and doesn't fill the chamber completely .

Raising the lever compensates for this somewhat .However it might not be a bad idea to rekit that thing when you get a chance .

A few of my antiques need new diaphrams of which I have to admit I've raised the levers also to buy time .However they don't run quite as well as they are capable of . Ha,I've got the kits, just don't feel like freezing my butt off at the moment to install them .

Oh ,if you rekit that thing bend the lever back down where it's supposed to be else the damned thing will flood causing you to mutter obscene words once again .;)
 
Thanks for the advice, I'll probably just run it as is until it starts to piss me off again, honestly, I'm ecstatic that it idles and accelerates as good as it does right now.
 
Anyone recently purchase a new carb for a MS200? I'm looking for a Zama CQ1 s126, the one Brian mentioned in this thread a few years ago. I need it for a rear handled 020, but I believe both the MS 200 rear handle and the top handle, and the 020 rear and top, all use the same carb. It doesn't seem to be available here, and it might be discontinued. The s126 doesn't have the accelerator pump, I believe. What is the preferred carb that is available now?

Thanks.
 
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