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then of course when taking over a large top with foliage, you need to calculate wind resistance..

check out this video ps.. I'm a 20% SWL for rigging, and I use double bowlines which lose a lot less strength an a standard bowline

no offense taken.. using true blue for rigging line is probably the best advice. It handles NC really well so you can switch out from blocks/rings to NC or use a hybrid system with main block and NC satellite rigging pints. and then use at least two overhead rigging points whenever you can.

Thanks.. beech isn't the strongest and when it's dead it just pops... I posted that video in 2015, but the earlier bit with the graphics is from 2009 or 2010.

try again:

what do you think of this one?

I remember when you used to talk about practicing opening biners with one hand while sitting on the couch... just to practice

Definitely... NC rigging using both sides of that co-dom is often far superior to the options shown. By using multiple crotches, the forces are spread out which allows the line to be set in higher points, whcih has multiple advantages. Sometimes a little friction is good (ie rings). And the...

The only time I've ever heard of anybody local breaking a tree out underneath them was because the tree had a bad spot of decay and when the log swung back into the tree from being rigged it hit the bad spot that's a major consideration that is rarely understood. That's generally what gives...

just look at the cover photo... fishing pole technique on a horizontal limb.... I mighty have used that once in 40 years... that's how practical it is.

the art and science of practical rigging is a shameful piece of garbage that has close to zero practical application in the field. TCIA best practices for rigging in arboriculture has a good deal of valuable information. Between to the two, it's much better... it has some problems, but worth...