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Some of those steel wedges the old timers used here were 3 foot long and maybe only inch and half thick. Dana Coverston told me, "I'd have a dozen in the back of a tree and start on one end and work down to the other. You don't pound those wedges, Jer, cuz you'll compress the wood and the tree...

I was wedging a small limb locked pine once, using splitting wedges of all things. It's all I had at the time. That tree was bowed enough to snap the top out of it and still wasn't coming loose. Chopping off the back to drive the wedges deeper,, I looked in the face and they were coming...

More powder! The perfect solution.

That will do it every time. I'll never forget learning to use a Dutchman and cutting corners off. I certainly don't recommend doing it, unless you have a lot of room for error,, and stand way back.

Oh, yeah it does, Eric. So long as it's on purpose. Hingewood manipulation is a fine art that can not be simply taught in a single lesson.

In goose pen trees all you have to rely on is the corners. Ultimately they are the guiding force of any tree, but by themselves not strong enough to hold a tree for very long. Especially a side leaner. There lot's of times you can get away with less hingewood and even more times that you...