Lots of face and back kerfs could extend the vertical length of the hinge and allow it to flex in more places, so it holds together better slowing down the fall.
Oak and other deciduous sticks are very convenient, perhaps not so much with the trees you cut.
Jerry showed a cool trick of cutting a wedge and using the bar to tap it into place before finishing the cut.
Might be able to if a single kerf on the face is made first. That's how I usually do it. The back cut needs to meet just above so it doesn't hang up and not slide off.
It makes the posts completely disappear, but there will be an option to reveal any ignored posts at the bottom of the page if there are any on that page. You might have to go back a page to find that option because of how posts are reordered. If the ignored post is the last in the thread, it...
It is half the time. I do what I can to help things go smoothly, but much of my skill and knowledge goes unused. We've been pretty lucky, but that could just be the perspective of my really high standards.
It depends on what you call a thick or thin hinge. As far as thin goes, often enough the trunk left in residential work requires the hinge to be pencil thin to pull over without a machine. But as for thick hinges, I think I'd prefer a multi hinge approach like a triple hinge rather than >3"...
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