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I remember being all careful cutting a highly valuable black walnut tree just to have it split in 3rds upon impact.

How often do you tighten up the slack?

Just curious what your experiences are. What kind of 5/8" rope did you try, and did it fit? did it slip a lot or a little?

It’s kind of an unspoken method in the Midwest from what I understand. It’s sketchy, not for newbs, and subject to criticism.

There was a vid of a guy doing the same with a walnut a few years back, worked well with the sharpest of sharp saws, a fairly neutral tree lean wise and a clear exit. By all accounts it’s not uncommon on the highest value timber. Nevertheless I bet they pick and chose carefully what trees they...

On that tree I’d have done a Humboldt, bore and trigger. A poor example I did just for grins for my buddy back east who always harvests valuable timber that way. Of interest is that the low side back cut pulled out of the butt and the high side pulled out of the stump. Did I already post...

Ironically a 2ft fibre pull right in the middle of the log.

I cannot imagine under any circumstance choosing that method.

I run 24” 3/8” lp on ported 60cc It’s “baby skip”

Reaming a tree down, or “felling over the saw”. Not really promoting the method, it’s just interesting. No barber chair or fiber pull if you get it right. I don’t know why he didn’t just run all the way out the back. I have done this on small yard spars. It works better back bar plunging...

I just met with the guy with the deep cycle batteries. They are mine, I just have to haul them home. 24, 6 volt batteries from his off grid solar setup. Now I'm looking for a controller to use then as grid tied backup for the house.

3/8lp, so it may be too little for a 50cc, but people run that stuff on ms260's a lot. It was abused, but just regular sharp. I think the chain had a lot of stretch in one direction rather than an off centered nose sprocket. I thought it broke because of fatigue from the uneven stretch, likely...

How much back weight compared to front weight? The trunk looks reasonably straight. The crown goes front and back. Pulling/ wedging/ jacking force had to overcome that difference in weight plus bend whatever hinge is present. Enough oomph will tip anything. Once we had a terribly rotten...

With a real gnarly back weight I do the same, take it off, or pull it.

It’s funny that comes up. After slamming one tree after another for a couple days, I’ve got a lot of felling stuff rattling around in my nugget. Wedging is way harder on back weighted short wide canopy “yard trees” vs. conifers. The hardwood resists bending more. The center of gravity is way...

On an another tree, they nearly ran up our legs.

Needs that song, move bitch! get out the way!

OMG that squirrel 🐿️!!!! Best slo mo ever! :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Was it a brand new chain or a chain that is cutting like an absolute razor?

Wedges aren’t that effective in trees with large canopy spreads. You might get the log to tip but the back weight can balance out a lot of wedge. My SOP for big pull trees is to cut some of the back weight off first. They had the gear on site it wouldn’t have taken that much more time to rig...