davidwyby
Desert Beaver
Horsetorques upload
Your favorite saw.
- Thread starter Dave Shepard
- Start date
- Replies 62
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thats weird. i rarely use a shorter bar on mine, sometimes a 28“ when there is a lot of beech to cut.
That's a crap day if you have to carry all that bar around. If you pick up a saw and the bar drops, it's too long. You need what you need, but smaller is better when you can get away with it. The 661 feels svelte with a 25" bar.
greengreer
TreeHouser
Always felt like a 066/66x had trouble oiling a 36" bar. Balance is definitely off too but even my 394 is nose heavy with a 36.
Reduced weight 32" is great on my 592, similar weight to a 661 so I'll bet that would be a nice combo. She flat out owns that 32 as well...
Reduced weight 32" is great on my 592, similar weight to a 661 so I'll bet that would be a nice combo. She flat out owns that 32 as well...
I was gonna mention the oiling. Feels insufficient to me, but I can't really point to anything that shows failure aside from some hot spots milling without an auxiliary oiler. Maybe the oiling is good enough for a saw's primary function, but I'd like to have the option of more oil.
greengreer
TreeHouser
Could be our tight grained hardwoods too but when the chain is getting tan/brown gunk caked there's not enough oil IMO
Maybe. I have nothing in that size. My two long(ish) bars are 25" & 36", and my displacement split is 60cc & 90cc. What I like in a saw is the longest bar on the lightest saw that hangs level when lifted. I bought the 25" with my 362 cause it served my needs at that time. It pulls it ok, but it's way nose heavy. The 362 is fantastic with the 20" light bar I have on it. Now that I have more saws, the 25" is mainly for the 661. A 32" light bar might be a good match, but it isn't something I need enough to spend money on at this time :shrugs:this can go round and round but for a 24“ bar i vastly prefer my 462
pete mctree
Treehouser
30“ is the max I would put on a 461 - they are a well balanced with a 25” and in the hard wood you need to keep the bar size down.
Burnham
Woods walker
Nose heavy saw/bar combinations are the norm here in W. Oregon, and the west coast in general I would hazard . Doesn't make them easy to handle, but it is basic to the needs and customs of sawyers here.
. Doesn't make them easy to handle, but it is basic to the needs and customs of sawyers here.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Need what you use, use what you need..
Make sure you have what you need on the truck and use accourdingly
Make sure you have what you need on the truck and use accourdingly
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
We're running a 36" on one of the 592s at work. Nice match.
the 36" in ES Light balances well, its like a solid 25 on it.
yep, especially in hard wood, they balance well, with slight bar down with a lighweight 24" in Sugi or Tsumura, both v good bars, but not as light as the stihl ES light.
get the aust option high volume oiler. longer stroke 1.1 vs .08 = more oil.
1128 640 3250
I was talking about my 661. Near as I can tell, they don't make a high output oiler for that one, but I'd be happy to be wrong :^)
Ok, my fav saw, depends on what Im cutting.
for smaller firewood, the 034 super with 18 or 20 is where its at.
but find myself just using the 660 with 24 or 36 depending on what im needing to cut.
At the end of the day when I am worn out, the Ms180 is looking pretty good.
pic of a mates 461 i recently repaired.
The scoring is on the intake side, not the exhaust where wear is typical and the exhaust was not too bad.
now its running again, its his favorite saw.
for smaller firewood, the 034 super with 18 or 20 is where its at.
but find myself just using the 660 with 24 or 36 depending on what im needing to cut.
At the end of the day when I am worn out, the Ms180 is looking pretty good
.pic of a mates 461 i recently repaired.
The scoring is on the intake side, not the exhaust where wear is typical and the exhaust was not too bad.
now its running again, its his favorite saw.
Look at the oiler from the underside of the saw, there is a little tab/ pin that stops the adjuster screw at its max setting, tap it into the case and out the way to give you extra turn on the adjuster = more oil.
apologies if you have already done that.
Yup, I got that, but it's still pretty weak. I'd like to be able to set it to 'deluge', even if it's considered generally wasteful. I think I'm about a half tank of oil to a tank of fuel. It sits at max, and even with the 25" bar, I don't think it's too wet. I'd consider it the 'economical' setting, and should have more to go from there.
I may just be expecting too much, and should adjust what I think is a good oil flow. Everything's in good shape, and no bluing or other symptoms of an obviously overheated bar, but like greer said, it gets funk baked on the rail edges that I think is caused by heat and low oil, but I don't know that I'd called it damaged.
I may just be expecting too much, and should adjust what I think is a good oil flow. Everything's in good shape, and no bluing or other symptoms of an obviously overheated bar, but like greer said, it gets funk baked on the rail edges that I think is caused by heat and low oil, but I don't know that I'd called it damaged.
Hmm, with the pin pushed in, you should run out of oil before running out of fuel, if your not getting thru the oil with the pin punched in, then no wonder your low on oil to the bar.
is the screen/ filter on the oil line pick up ok, check for operation of the air valve/ located above the bar studs and below the oil slot, after those are confirmed ok, then check to make sure there is nothing in the oiler proper preventing full stroke when its operating rotating around.
is the screen/ filter on the oil line pick up ok, check for operation of the air valve/ located above the bar studs and below the oil slot, after those are confirmed ok, then check to make sure there is nothing in the oiler proper preventing full stroke when its operating rotating around.
yep, time to start at the basics, and work from there, assume nothing has been done correctly from the beginning.
not the first time I have come across a worm gear slipping on the drive wire, or wire not engaging on the clutch drum, lack of lubrication of the bush inside the worm gear and it getting hot and moving the drive wire out of engagement of the drum, drum not fitted correctly, worn edge of drive wire etc etc etc.
debrits inside the oil pump not allowing full stroke of piston, yeah, full dissasembly required for that, but it dosent take long, and the clutch is removed clockwise, I use some 8mm cotton rope stuffed into the cyld as a piston stop.
torque to do clutch spider back onto crank is 70Nm, or 50ftlbs.
if its all ok, you can re grind the adjustment screw cam that sits up against the oil pump piston, to increase its stroke/ revolution. Once its apart, you can see how the cam gives different stroke, so grinding that gives more stroke, its only a small amount required.
not the first time I have come across a worm gear slipping on the drive wire, or wire not engaging on the clutch drum, lack of lubrication of the bush inside the worm gear and it getting hot and moving the drive wire out of engagement of the drum, drum not fitted correctly, worn edge of drive wire etc etc etc.
debrits inside the oil pump not allowing full stroke of piston, yeah, full dissasembly required for that, but it dosent take long, and the clutch is removed clockwise, I use some 8mm cotton rope stuffed into the cyld as a piston stop.
torque to do clutch spider back onto crank is 70Nm, or 50ftlbs.
if its all ok, you can re grind the adjustment screw cam that sits up against the oil pump piston, to increase its stroke/ revolution. Once its apart, you can see how the cam gives different stroke, so grinding that gives more stroke, its only a small amount required.
huskihl
Treehouser
I’ve got a 661 and with the pin punched in, there’s always some oil left in the tank. The pump could be modded for more flow or you could switch to lighter bar oil so it could pump more.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
I asked Kevin to make it lug down low.
Fave saw lately, thing is fast. I found it preferable to buck the tree up with it and it’s 36” bar than bending and reaching with a 60 or 70 cc. Stand up straight, let the weight take over and let it zip right through. I need to put the tach on it and see what it’s turning in wood. I bet it’s 11,000.
Fave saw lately, thing is fast. I found it preferable to buck the tree up with it and it’s 36” bar than bending and reaching with a 60 or 70 cc. Stand up straight, let the weight take over and let it zip right through. I need to put the tach on it and see what it’s turning in wood. I bet it’s 11,000.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
Dirty wood, plunged a clean spot and cutting outward with the top and bottom of the bar, stays sharp longer. 32” full comp 2175
