The MS150 Has Arrived

Yup, my spark arrestor is gone, working on opening the muffler hole, anyone do it while the muffler is still on the saw?
 
You don't want metal filings falling into the muffler that could find their way into the cylinder, Fiona. Play it safe.
 
Looks like I'll be getting a T150 after all.
Stihl wasn't going to market it here, which made me bitch vehemently at their representative.
Yesterday my dealer told me that the fact that I and a couple of other company owners had complained, made them change their minds.
It'll be on the market beginning of next year.
I right away told him to get me one:D
 
You don't want metal filings falling into the muffler that could find their way into the cylinder, Fiona. Play it safe.

Yeah...I know, just seeing if I could cut corners, but best not to :)

I'm still surprised how much I use this little saw, it can cut some fair sized wood before you start to think about switching to the 200...and the ease at climbing around with it clipped up on my harness...bliss compared to the concrete block 200 for those little fiddy prune jobs.
 
Yeah...I know, just seeing if I could cut corners, but best not to :)

I'm still surprised how much I use this little saw, it can cut some fair sized wood before you start to think about switching to the 200...and the ease at climbing around with it clipped up on my harness...bliss compared to the concrete block 200 for those little fiddy prune jobs.
Fiona , are you using the little 1/4" chain that came with the saw, and if you are how do you like it?

When you pull the muffler off and grind out the exhaust outlet to make it larger make sure you blow the muffler out through the exhaust port hole side with compressed air, rattle the muffler on the work bench a few times to loosen any remaining filings and blow it out again. You may just want to drill another outlet hole alongside the original.
I'm not sure if the muffler has baffles inside if it does you may want to remove that too. Maybe Randy can fill us in on that.......
 
If you have access, a good approach is using a countersink bit to clean up the edges of a hole to eliminate any potential bits of steel left that may drop off later from vibration or whatever. Makes for a softened edge.
 

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Right, Willard, you can't always get in there to do it with the bit, but quicker and better than a file when you can. Thin steel, so a light touch.
 
They breathe in and out thru muffler so make sure there is no metal or anything else that can be sucked in.
I don't do anything with muffler on the saw as it is a risk somthing is in a place were I can't see it get out.
 
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We use ours a lot. Keep the 1/4" chain. I've tried them with 3/8 low pro.......it's too much for the little feller IMO.
 
My ms 150 is running like a champ now, talk about being plugged up...did a medium valley oak removal with it and it ripped!!..bout time
 
Hey Willard, yes I'm using the little 1/4" chain. It runs just fine. Getting the chain tension right is important, the 150 doesn't like it if the chain is a bit too tight, I actually tension it a bit looser than I'm used to on my other bigger saws.

I cut up to about 8" casuarina trees with it this summer and it did a super job, casuarina is very dense (sinks when it hits the water) That would be about at its limit though and I wouldn't want to cut that size all day with it, but when doing a job and a range of timber size is there, the 150 can handle it, saves bringing the 200 out for half a dozen cuts.

BOTS, I noticed your 150 in the work pictures on that oak! Cool. Did you just open up the muffler or did you also do anything with the timing like has been discussed here before?
 
Hi bermy,

Just opened up muffler/cleaned spark screen....its like a different saw now...oh, didnt do timing
 
Thanks!
I know mastermind has explained the timing thing, but if I can get enough improvement with just the muffler opening that's enough for me!
 
Well with just taking out the spark arrestor and bending the opening wider a bit I'd say its better already.
Have to wait for the full muffler opening, I have to figure out how to get it off!
 
Well with just taking out the spark arrestor and bending the opening wider a bit I'd say its better already.
Have to wait for the full muffler opening, I have to figure out how to get it off!
Thanks Randy and Fiona for your replies.

Fiona, how about opening up your 150's muffler outlet with a pair of sidecutter pliers or tin snips , then just bend the flaps outward. No need to remove the muffler, no worries about getting debris inside ...... seeing your not replacing the screen anyways.
Just don't go too big, also keep an eye of possible cracks developing but I doubt that would be a problem.
 
I just re- read this great thread of Randys.
From the photo of the outlet on page 15 I can see just snipping the recessed outlet hole plate with a pair of small side cutters on both sides of the hole as far as you can, then prying up the 4 flaps with a screw driver would open up the outlet nicely.
No metal should fall in and the screen can be re installed.

But if was me I'd remove the muffler and grind out that tiny hole as big as that recessed area allows.
 
Picked up my 192t after a long time with 200t in hand, how nice was that. For a long time all I had was a192t. I will buy a 150t soon.
 
Yes Willard, that was going to be my next plan! I was cleaning the Wee Saw this evening and it looks like a bit of a pain to get the muffler off...or maybe its just me.

Used it almost all day today, pruning the Laurel 'hedge' (read 40' with overgrown trunks and limbs up to 8"...) everything from the twigs to the trunks got cut, easy as!
 
I do not know, but maybe will be interested - if you reduce depth stop of cut (the original chain 150t), something really increases cutting speed. Without prejudice to the other parameters. Tested on their own experience.
 
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