Telescoping Pole Saw

I have the Silky Hayauchi 21' three section (each section about 7')..., had one in Bermuda for 6 yrs...had one here for 2.
When I very first bought my Bermuda one, yes, one section split at the hole within a short time, but Silky sent a replacement for free as soon as I sent them a picture, and I have never had another problem with holes or any problems with the clips. So even if something goes awry the sections are individually replaceable.

Even I can use it fully extended 21' with no problem, yes it sways a bit but we don't baby it and it is still holding strong. The blade lasts a very long time so even thought its not cheap its not like you have to replace them too often.

I have said for many years that the Fiskars 12' extendable adjustable head pruner is one of the best hand tools I've ever bought for pruning. I'd buy one of those before a pole saw, actually, I did when we moved here.
 
We use the fiskars pole pruner, too. I buy a new one about every three months and it's $80 well spent. Being able to pivot the cutting head is just a dream. In fact, I usually leave it cocked at about 15 degrees. And it's almost never at a straight line.

love
nick


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We use the fiskars pole pruner, too. I buy a new one about every three months and it's $80 well spent. Being able to pivot the cutting head is just a dream. In fact, I usually leave it cocked at about 15 degrees. And it's almost never at a straight line.

love
nick


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?0skixr

Exactly Nick!
Except here they cost $180 so I make it last a bit longer!
 
Agreed! I never use a pole saw in a tree. If it's big enough to need to be sawn, I can almost always climb out there and make a proper (clean) cut with a hand saw. However, that being said, I do like a pivot head pole pruner to reach those small (out-of-reach) tips to make clean, properly aligned cuts for crown thinning/reduction. Again, if it's too big to be cut with the pivot pruner then I can usually climb out to it with a hand saw. To maintain tree heath during any pruning, I've always felt the quality of the cut to be very important ... never had much luck making acceptable pruning cuts with a saw on a pole.
:)

I have the Silky Hayauchi 21' three section (each section about 7')..., had one in Bermuda for 6 yrs...had one here for 2.
When I very first bought my Bermuda one, yes, one section split at the hole within a short time, but Silky sent a replacement for free as soon as I sent them a picture, and I have never had another problem with holes or any problems with the clips. So even if something goes awry the sections are individually replaceable.

Even I can use it fully extended 21' with no problem, yes it sways a bit but we don't baby it and it is still holding strong. The blade lasts a very long time so even thought its not cheap its not like you have to replace them too often.

I have said for many years that the Fiskars 12' extendable adjustable head pruner is one of the best hand tools I've ever bought for pruning. I'd buy one of those before a pole saw, actually, I did when we moved here.

We use the fiskars pole pruner, too. I buy a new one about every three months and it's $80 well spent. Being able to pivot the cutting head is just a dream. In fact, I usually leave it cocked at about 15 degrees. And it's almost never at a straight line.

love
nick


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?0skixr

EXACTLY! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: They are a trifle fragile {NOT for the ham-fisted}. But, they make the best cuts at a distance. And, HomeDespot carries them so they're available without paying over-size shipping.

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-Jack
 
+1 on the fiskars pruner being good. I have a whole stack of jameson poles, mostly 8' and a few 4' sections. I have a big heavy duty bull lopper that goes on the jameson poles that will lop through 2". I rarely crank it out though, I mostly use the fiskars. We use the bull lopper near powerlines though.

The jameson poles are ok as a pole saw. You can get a few heads with them, I'm using the ARS turb cut head now and used to use the hayauchi blade on an adaptor which was a lot better. I also am in the school of thought that I don't use the pole saw in the tree, it's mainly for ground work. For ground work a motorised saw is probably better though. The guys are too rough on the stihl ones and usually bend the shaft in less than a year.

The jameson poles have a few other uses. You can put at most two of the 8' poles together for 16'. Any more than that is wet spaghetti. Even at that height I hope you've only got a couple branches to do, and it better be a removal because they wont be clean cuts. The hayauchi is infinitely better, but also costly. You get what you pay for.

One of the things we use the jameson poles the most with is the hook attachment. It has 2 or 3 hooks facing different directions - up and down. It's amazing how quick and useful this thing is. We often use it in place of a pull line on cypress pines with 30 leaders because you can just hook and pull/push while someone is cutting. It's great in place of a tag line to retrieve roped limbs just out of reach. Also in place of a pull line for bring limbs in a little. I use it up in the tree sometimes for setting ropes out on the ends of dead/sketchy limbs high up when I need to tip/butt tie to rope them flat. I bought the hook basically as an afterthought, it only cost a few dollars. I was thinking the bull lopper would be used a lot. In truth, we've probably only used that bull lopper 2 or 3 times in the last year, but the hook gets used weekly or more.

Shaun
 
The hooks can be useful for storm damaged limbs where climbing out there might dislodge a hanger.


The time that I'll use a pole saw or pruner in the tree is to remove branches off of a top on a skinny tree where I don't want to rope it, alders come to mind. I can cut or lop the branches part way through, have them hinge down to where I can rip them off and throw them clear, then when the top is lighter, I can snap cut it and bring it down vertically, tip high, hand over hand, until I can throw it clear of the obstacles below. Same has worked on skinny fir without a place to hang or free fall the top.

A different Sean
 
Shaun, I also use the hook attachment with a couple poles to prop up low hanging power or phone lines for my truck access. Even though my truck is only 11'6" high, lots of service drops hang lower than that.
 
3 section/piece Silky is hard to beat for use from the ground, doesnt fair well with those that didnt pay for it though (crews).

And that whole "i dont need a pole saw when climbing argument", well that depends on the scope of work and tree - I get a kick out of those climbers that say stuff like you never need a polesaw. Its all subjective. If its a 1" diameter and greater deadwood removal probably not but I used to get a lot of 1/2" diameter and greater jobs and out comes the 6ft jameson.
 
I've pulled the head off my Fiskars a few times, but it pops back in really easily, usually when I'm trying to pull something with it instead of cutting! It has just a crimp to hold it on so I need to put a screw through it. I don't think Fiskars thought of all the things a tree surgeon might try to do with it!
 
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https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=44&item=71

I got it. for the most part I have been thrilled with it however it broke yesterday. It was great for large shade tree pruning climbs.

I have been using it regularly but not abusing it. The upper/outer locking sleeve has disconnected from the bottom pole and the inner locking sleeve (in the bottom of the skinny pole.) broke. Also the small pole has a ring of cracks starting around the end.

... @ $52 I could understand replacing it every other year or even once a year when the mechanism wore out, but 3 months seems like it was just to fast.

I will be replacing it with something, likely just standard fixed poles.

I sent the sentiments above over to Luke @ treestuff... See what he has to say. Just thought I would update you guys..
 
My goal is to NEVER use my polesaw, but I have it for when I need it.

Am I the only one who thinks like this? I have more thoughts on this subject...

I will second this, I try to climb where I need to go. Don't use the pole saw in the tree very often and I have the (2) 6' poles. I do use the poles with just a hook to move my climb line sometimes if it's a difficult throw.
 
I used to think like that. It's a good technique when trying to push your limits and expand your skills. But once you begin getting old and tired you simply look for the quickest, easiest way to accomplish the task at hand. If you're already in the tree then climbing out is often faster. But if I have to choose between grabbing the polesaw or putting on my saddle and gearing up, you can guess which method I'll choose.
 
No ornamentals down here just some wide wild a$$ hard wood tropical trees though there are a few soft very big spreading fruit tree types. We are a rough bunch of climbers, most trees we climb the climbing is brutal ( no way implying it's not up North can only speak on what I do ) lots of up and down across across and more up and down. Hence no poles we just get accustomed to climbing out there and getting the cut made. Sweating profusely of coarse.
 
I will second this, I try to climb where I need to go. Don't use the pole saw in the tree very often and I have the (2) 6' poles. I do use the poles with just a hook to move my climb line sometimes if it's a difficult throw.

Agreed. I almost never could get a 'proper' cut with a pole saw ... too many dog-ears. :(

I, too, like to climb to everything if I can. But, the Fiskars pole pruner is great for getting a good clean cut on those little out-of-reach tips. Too bad it so fragile ... still like, though.
:)
 
Correct is right Butch, just liked adding that word brutal for a bit of sympathy but I see I won't get any. Ha. You guy's know and hear my pain though, but I do love it.
 
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