Powering a 12v winch with a 110v house power supply--help.

Since neither the plug nor the controller itself are waterproof, waterproofing well soldered and taped joints may be like putting lipstick on a pig. Won't hurt a thing, though.
 
I would waterproofing the wiring. You hold the controller in hand and can take care of it, but the wire lays on the ground, dirt, water, mud and so on.


Disconnect the positive battery terminal while the car is running, if it dies, the alt is toast!
Click to expand...
Don't do that. The battery acts as a damper for the alt. With out the battery, the electricity produced is very irregular and can toast the computer.
 
Marc-Antoine said:
I would waterproofing the wiring. You hold the controller in hand and can take care of it, but the wire lays on the ground, dirt, water, mud and so on.



Don't do that. The battery acts as a damper for the alt. With out the battery, the electricity produced is very irregular and can toast the computer.
Click to expand...

Not sure where you got that, if you disconnect the battery and it fries the computer you've got a lot bigger problems going on! The alt already has built in regulation and wont supply any more power than needed. It's no different than getting a jump start on the day your battery died and driving it home on just alt power.
 
He right Sawinredneck.

Many new vehicles use the battery as a voltage buffer.

I know a few shade trees that have learned this the expensive way.
 
Reddog said:
He right Sawinredneck.

Many new vehicles use the battery as a voltage buffer.

I know a few shade trees that have learned this the expensive way.
Click to expand...

I'll do some research on this.

So what happens in the instance I cited, the battery goes tits up and you need to get it home?
 
No need, Just got off the phone. I have to eat crow, I stand corrected. Sorry. Do NOT disconnect the battery to test the alt!
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #35
I think that the only computer in the 1990 f600 is my smartphone. Thanks all the same. Good info.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #36
Maybe too much draw killed the alternator. I'm going to get it tested today, since my new employee flaked out. After agreeing to having paid working day today, she thought she should have a job guaranteed or not. I guess not.
 
Depending you could draw 150 amps on the 12 volt motor for a short period of time .120 AC to 150-200 amp 12 volt DC would require a hefty rectifier .

GM alternators are like some odd ball 63-92 amp deals with some of them up to maybe 200 amp on big trucks .To get that though you have keep the RPM'S up They won't do it at idle speeds

Probabley the easiest thing to do is either get a big giant battery or parrellel two of them .As an example the motor home my parents had had a 300 some HP Cummins diesel ,12 volt start .It had 4 12 volt batteries in parrellel for the start circuit and 3 for the onboard 12 volt coach system .I'm thinking it was 150-175 amp Gm alternator .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #40
I think my alternator is around 95 amps.

To run them in parallel, how would I hook it up. As is. I have the battery under the passenger step on a shelf. The easiest, shortest wire would be to set up the wires, and rest the other battery on the passengers step. A step further would be to have another shelf welded beneath the cab, next to the first. Can any standard vehicle batteries, and any number of batteries be permanently installed in parallel, theoretically?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #41
Seems part of my problem is an exhaust leak, causing too low of idle for the external voltage regulator to activate the charging system.

My mechanic showed me the idle screw. If I turn it up, the gas engine ruins smoother, but "diesels" when I shut it off... sputters and doesn't quit running right away. Thoughts?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #47
Do you reckon the 'dieseling' is from a bad carb?

Thanks for finding it.
 
Dieseling can be caused by several things, too much advance in the timing, too much fuel, carbs too rich, idle speed set to high or a combination of all of them.
 
429's are notorious for dieseling.
Seems the cam timing profile and ecu spark advance have a lot to do with it.
Carbon build up can cause it also.
Really hard to tune out at times.
 
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