MS201T

The point about overheating, I think is grasping at straws. Maybe if someone unfamiliar with saw use is going to be winding it out on twigs, but skilled users don't overwork a saw like that.
 
I think the whole deal is Stihl is doing damage control .

You may have something there, Al. The saw has been out for a long time now, why does Mark give a review now instead of shortly after it's introduction?
 
I have 2 201s. They were both awful from the start, both got new carbs, one is now OK, the other has a deadly high idle that went from intermittent to full time the other day. Its not actually high idle, its more like 1/3 throttle, lol.
 
In my avatar, I'm using a 200 with a 16" bar. There's no way I'd attempt that cut with a 201.

If you don't have to cut anything big, the 201 is an OK saw.

Yikes!!! Belay the last... I was having an extended brain fart! It was the 192 I was using, not the 201. I don't know squat about the 201.

Carry on. :drink:
 
I have no idea why Mark did that so late in the game .On that though at two local Stihl dealers they both allude to the fact that yes the 201T experianced problems early on but say they've been rectified .How true that is anybodies guess .

Remember though stihl never admitted they had a problem on the later run of 200T's with carb issues .200's die from two things .Either a fall from a tree or a lean run .I'm a firm believer the lean run thing was caused more because of roller bearing mains that flopped hither and yon and took out the seals than the carbs being funky .

It's also my belief that if periodically those seals at least get changed that the remaining 200's still in service will last a good long while because other than what I stated they are a pretty robust little saw .If the bearings get sloppy change them too and save the 200.
 
If you are to show two saws with tach, why not show both saws with tach.

This video doesn't show much of anything really...
 
Like I said it's damage control .You won't find one dealer who sells the things ever saying they aren't as good as a 200T .That would be cutting their nose off to spite their face .

Like I also said you folks that have the 200T and like them will either have to make plans how to preserve them or go to another model or brand .If it isn't a 201T I seriously doubt too many would choose a 192 .
 
I'd go with Echo before a 192.

They say it takes 8-10 tanks of fuel before the 201 starts to perform decently...methinks they should run in those tanks at the factory, cuz doing it in the field is very unproductive and can result in alot of angst.
 
Well if that's the case ole Tom has a lot of angst because he's fought that thing most of the summer season .

To tell the truth I have no idea how to pep one of those things up so I certainly would be of no help .
 
Here is my prediction. The 200T stuff that is patented (Mainly the P&C) will eventually become open to the after market and we will be able to reuild them at around $200.00 for all the parts (including intake boots and the like) and we will do just that with the old ones before buying a whole bunch of new crap that is buggy as hell and don't run for shit due to the fact that a bunch of idiots in CA are going to tell the whole world what carbon credits are and will cost them.
Then when they find a nice balance of speed and torque with the newer engines so they perform better, great, I'll consider spending almost $700.00 for a top handle saw that I may or may not like.. oh wait, Echo just sped up the engine on the 355T and it has a great warranty orrrrrrrrrrrr. We will adapt no matter. It is up to the manufacturers what we will put up with and buy. There does come a point when an old whip saw looks attractive when fuel is $5.00 a gallon, your Stihl cuts for shat and the mix it needs is 8.00 per bottle no to mention bar oil. Keep it up bean counters and EPA.. Good luck with that.
Sorry, just had to vent. ;)
 
Stephen, I had my dealer rebuild 2 of our t200s last week, rather than buy a new t201.
Good prediction, dude!:lol:
 
Yeah, right on.

People who argue about small performance differences between 200 and 201 have it made! I got a 201 which has never run right, I dropped it off again yesterday at its home away from home, the dealer. Left a new Husky 338 there too- the high end cutting was fine but it just won't idle.
 
I also predict eventually you'll be able to buy replacement parts aftermarket for an 020/200 .If there is a big enough market for them someone will make them .
 
I recently went the aftermarket route with a 024 piston, rings and wrist pin. This is also the first time I have used aftermarket parts. Never again will I do that. Nothing really fit the way it should have. I spent more time sandpapering and light filing to get things to fit togehter nicely but it just wasn't worth the effort and time. The saw didn't meant that much to me but I got tired of seeing it under the bench so I finally decided to fix it cheap and that is what I got. A cheap fix that I know won't hold up if the saw ever sees serious work which I doubt it will so it is destined to be a brush and ditch saw like my 025's.
 
Actually I've had pretty good luck with after market although it's only been pistons and rings ,no cylinder .The pistons have been meteor and the rings both Cabar and Meteor .

The cir clips that came with them weren't not worth a pinch of coon chit so I used the OEM clips from Stihl .The pistons had a tad too much casting flash for me which I smoothed out .That's not a big deal because I usually do a little work on a piston even an OEM Mahle .
 
Yeah on the 200 that's the deal breaker .The part that really sucks is if you bust a crankcase from a fall or torch off a cylinder the freakin parts cost half what the thing cost new .

When Tom had that leaker 020 the danged crankcase would have set him back 300 from a dealer .I found a good 200T crankcase from flea bay for 50 .Now it has a screw fuel cap and a flippy oil cap .The saw runs like a new one .
 
Gotta love that. I just put a friends brand new carb into mine, (he smashed the soft-frame--gas tank-- and crank case) and it runs like new. Man, if I'd get off my ass and do the seals, that pig would really go.
 
All right, all right, all right. Come on man, you gotta admit this stuff can be tough for non-technical inbreds who never done it before. I hate getting the dang fly-wheel off. Any tips?
 
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