MS201T

Well just think of how awesome it'll be after another 29 tanks.

I've got 4 running 200ts right now and one brand new one in a box still. All of them will outcut the 201 at this point imo. I've turned the 201 up a bit and I'm still not impressed. That is my opinion of the one I've got so far. Maybe it's a dud, could be, I won't be finding out though until I've run the 1/2 dozen 200t's I've got around into the ground.
 
The break in procedure is critical on these saws if you ever want any power out of them. You need to fire them up and peg the throttle right off the bat, and hold it pegged for about 60-90 seconds. Then rev it a few times and cover different RPM ranges for another 30-60 seconds. Then peg it again for another 60 seconds. Dial the 200T in at 14K rpm.
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Isn't this something the saw dealer does when you buy it???

All this is news to me, for sure.
 
The dealers are supposed to do it, yes. Some dealers (such as the one I used the last couple of years) don't do it properly and the saws run weak. Go back and read my previous post again for clarification if you missed it.
The saws I bought recently 'in the box' were NOT set up by the dealer because I specifically asked that they didn't. The saws will be sitting in boxes for some time and I don't want old fuel sitting in them.
 
Not skeptical, just wondering.... Break in procedures always seems controversial, folks have different takes on it. Is there something particular to that saw model that makes the break in described as best, or would you say that it applies to all new saws? What about the take it easy for a few tanks that the manufacturers sometimes advise? Is that something that should follow the wind it up part when first new?
 
IMAG0151.jpg We have a couple 201s but the guys that got them really want a 200T. I got lucky today when the owner showed up. I got 5 200ts. He got them in LA for $489.00 each.
 
brendonv said:
I know.

Mine cuts great, I have a brand new 200t in the box, and two older ones. Still using the 201.
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Yours cuts as good or better than a 200? No mods? I highly doubt it. I know you've said you think it's more 'ergonomical'. I disagree, it might have rounded corners but it's no easier to wield than a 200. So I guess I shouldn't whine, why would I when a legendary ripping saw has been replaced by something you have to mod to even make it equal. Yahhh for the new 201. Not.
 
arborworks1 said:
Mod the muffler and quit whining about it!!
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I'll have to do something to help the anemic bastard keep up now won't I.

I'm whining to let others know what I think. I'm a huge Stihl fan 16 or 17 of their saws in the stable right now. I doubt I'll buy another 201, I'll try another brand out 1st. I don't mind paying the Stihl premium, I just want a premium product. Imo they are starting to slip, I put this 201 in the same category as the 441 I bought earlier this year. Wimpy at best.
 
My dealer called yesterday, said the 200t's were flying off the shelf and did I want the last one? I passed because of this thread:)
 
I don't own a 201 but from talk I've heard it needs a muffler mod . My MS200 doesn't need a muffler mod because just pulling out the screen with built in restrictor plate does that.
Years back in the very early 1990s when Husqvarna introduced the 394XP and Stihl with their 066, the 066 got a dual outlet muffler. I had one of these 066 magnums from new and man was it noisy. Most times I keep the center outlet closed with a screen sized piece of tin. Sure helped the fuel economy and pissing people off with the noise.

My question is ,is the 201 quieter out of the box then a out of the box 200? What does pulling the screen do for the 201? Does the 201 screen have a solid restrictor plate on it?
 
If you get a product you are not happy with there is plenty more to choose from for next purchase.
Regardless of brand saws are pretty good today. Hardest is to find something you really like.
It is not always the price and brand that is important.
You need to like it, it's going to be your buddy at work for a long time.
We are all different and have different thoughts and wishes.
 
I really think something is off if you need to mod a saw to get it to perform well as a money maker.
For fun I can see it, but not for work. You pay for this to run good for a pretty good chunk of time.
 
Muffler modding has been around many years. I remember in the early 1970s working alongside fallers who would poke a half dozen holes in the front of their Jonsered mufflers with the scrench.
But I agree with you Magnus about modding a work saw, alot of times the extra noise fools people thinking it is cutting "alot" faster.

Most places in Europe logging was on a hourly rate basis with the chainsaw. Here in Canada and the US most places it was always by piecework, so muffler modding or what ever was the way to go to make more money. But when I last checked most operations in my area chainsaw included is now paid by the hour.
 
Skwerl said:
The break in procedure is critical on these saws if you ever want any power out of them. You need to fire them up and peg the throttle right off the bat, and hold it pegged for about 60-90 seconds. Then rev it a few times and cover different RPM ranges for another 30-60 seconds. Then peg it again for another 60 seconds. Dial the 200T in at 14K rpm. If you baby it on the initial break in then it will always run weaker.
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Where did you learn that this is the proper break in procedure? It sounds anecdotal and random to me. Pegging a saw for 90 seconds sounds like a good way to blow it up. Just wondering.
 
I break them in just like I'm going to use them. If they blow up, well, I wouldn't have liked the damn thing anyway!
 
HolmenTree said:
Most places in Europe logging was on a hourly rate basis with the chainsaw. Here in Canada and the US most places it was always by piecework, so muffler modding or what ever was the way to go to make more money.
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Not here Willard.
It has always been piecework. I would have quit long ago if it wasn't.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #444
Justin, not sure what to tell you, and in reality I don't care which saw you use. I can say my 201 is a strong runner with having just pulled the spark arrestor. Maybe you'll finish your jobs 11 minutes faster than me because your using your 200t. I'm very impressed. ;)
 
I guess by "breaking in" a saw, it means seating the rings. People have different opinions about how that is best done, including the manufacturers, but it doesn't seem like rocket science to have going along with the opinions, what is the mechanism that makes one way or another work. I don't think I have read that yet, but I want to.

Regarding Willard's comment on fuel economy and muffler mods, I was surprised when my 020 caught on fire a couple of times recently, resulting from the spark plug wire being loose and the wayward spark igniting the fuel coming out of the exhaust opening next to the plug. Enough spark to keep the saw running, albeit rough, and also to ignite the fuel in the exhaust. It surprised me that there is enough unburnt fuel coming out to ignite within the turbulence of the burned gases. I had read about it, but was not quite aware of the inefficiency of two cycle engines before seeing it with my own eyes like that. Indeed it must be polluting as well.
 
Mill wood loggers, pulp wood loggers run on volume. Thinners is a bit of each here...
Arborist, fruit tree cutters etc hr rate...
What I mean is if you have a saw you make money with, you might as well get a saw suited for your needs.
Modding here is for enthusiasts. If the pro need more power, they get a bigger or better saw.

Regarding Brians post...
This is for saws with active ignition and controlled carbs, electronic or mechanic.
I think it is in workshop manual for some saws, not sure bout Stihl, though...

New saws I set to perform well and instruct user not to run them hot or crazy rev... 5-10 tanks I set it again and it is 10% better in performance most times, sometimes more. Number of rpm mean nothing if you want performance!
 
I can understand muffler mod to keep it cooler, and breathe easier. I just don't see a reason for a money maker to be modded, get the right stuff instead...
 
In my instance, a rarity for sure, it makes sense for me to run a modded saw. I get the same power a bigger saw can provide, in a size and weight I can manage more easily.
I'm not a pro, but not really a weekend warrior either, I'm not about making cookies, but production times. The less time I'm on the saw, the happier my back is.
 
brendonv said:
Justin, not sure what to tell you, and in reality I don't care which saw you use. I can say my 201 is a strong runner with having just pulled the spark arrestor. Maybe you'll finish your jobs 11 minutes faster than me because your using your 200t. I'm very impressed. ;)
Click to expand...

Really? Sorry I missed where it was a race.

I've already mentioned atleast a couple of times that possibly I have a dud, I only have one 201. Imo it does not run strong, pulling the spark arrestor did next to nothing for mine.

I'm glad you're happy with yours and really hope that mine is just a dud as one day in the future my 200's will be shot and I'll be running something else.

I guess I'll have to look back and see how the muffler mod was done. I'm not much of a metal worker myself though, maybe have to see if there's a builder interested in giving it a working over. All my mid/large sized saws are modded so why shouldn't the tophandle be too?
 
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