Long Term Storage

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Greenhorn

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Unfortunately atleast 6 or 7 of my saws are going to be stored for an indefinite amount of time. What would you guys recommend?

I might just put that man made pre-mixed fuel concoction in them and try to start them once a month or so. That or stabil. I think the lab made fuel stuff is supposed to stay good a lot longer though.

Or drain them all?

Thanks for any tips guys.
 
Rob, I have had great success with what I think is pretty much the standard recommendation, at least I have seen it suggested in a couple books. Drain the gas and run it until the engine dies, to clear the carb, then take out the plug and put a teaspoon of 2 cycle oil into the cylinder, and pull the starter a few times to distribute it. Then I drain and flush out the oil tank with kerosene. I make sure there is no amount of gas left in the tank under the fuel filter, let it evaporate with the cap off if there is. It would probably evaporate anyway. Saws will sit that way for years then start up without a problem, has been my experience. When you do go to start it, first take out the plug and pull the starter a number of times to try and evacuate the oil. It may smoke like a mother sometimes when first starting, but not a problem. Never have tried any pre-mix or periodic starting, never felt the need. On some saws, putting a little gas directly into the cylinder, or maybe Willie's method of putting some on the air filter, gets them going a bit easier after a long period of non use. It occurs that taking out the carb diaphragm(s), especially the metering one, and keeping it in a tight plastic bag and not exposed to the air, might help it from hardening, but I have never bothered. I find that some model saws come back to life quicker than others, but they all will if good running when put away.

Since I purchased the 880, my 090G might sit unused for a number of years, then will start up again no problemo with the above mentioned. The biggest hindrance I have with it is sometimes forgetting that the throttle lock has to be set for it to start. Some of the oldies were that way.
 
I just put an 026 back to gether that had been sitting idle for at least three years, carb had been taken off because it had a split in the fuel hose elbow and the saw wouldn't run right, and I never got round to fixing it untill last week. Plug was out, no gas. It sat with some bits of paper stuffed in the manifold a sheet over it, and the carb in a plastic bag.
No word of lie, I got it all back together, after a bush mechanic's fix on the carb thingy, fuelled it up and Brrrmmmm, away it went on about the fourth pull.
All my saws that sit are drained of gas, then run till they stop, drain the oil and leave them with the caps loose and chains sagged. Never had a problem - ever.
 
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Thanks guys, sounds good. I guess I really fear the rubber bits drying up and cracking. I have a few two cycle things that only get used maybe a few times a yr and I dont do anything to them and they fire up and run - always amazes me versus four stroke stuff. I want the best for my lil stihl babies though.

Brian - I am finally succumbing to economical/health/growing family issues and taking a job with benefits and all that jazz for awhile. I will miss climbing but thats about it - may do a lil side wk. but tree work don't pay peanuts in Houston so dunno. Will post about it all soon, and maybe sell some stuff.
 
Another thing to keep in mind .Never store a saw on a concrete floor .After a period of time the concrete will absorb the aluminum componets of the saw through a chemical reaction .In addition it's not a bad idea to remove the bar and chain also because given enough time there could be a reaction between the dissimilar metals of the steel bar and the aluminum of the saw .

Marinas sell a product called fogging oil which they spray inside the outboard motors through the carb to provide protection when stored for long periods .
 
One of the components of Portland cement is alumina which comes from blue clay .Portland cement is the binding agent in concrete .

I'm not exactly certain of the specifics but I think it has to do with a covalant bond ,difference in valance electrons or something but the concrete will leech out the aluminum of the saw if in contact with it .

For example you cannot bury aluminum in concrete such as aluminum conduit .Certain things like aluminum screen door frames or window casings will deteriate if in direct contact with concrete .Turns the aluminum to powder .Takes a long while but it does happen .

If I get some time I'll Google the reason aluminum and concrete don't do so well together .

Here's one explaination of many on the net .http://www.cmc-concrete.com/CMC Pub...tal in Concrete - A Case Study, 32nd ICMA.pdf
 
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