Insect and bites

So the blue rope setup is your secondary lanyard, that you also use as another tie in, correct? The carabiner with the red gate is on your side D correct?

If so, you do not need that CT thingy in addition to the friction hitch. All you need is a plain micro pulley there behind your friction hitch. The friction hitch is what stops you when you need stopping.
You need to be able to pull your lanyard in, and let it out with the minimum of fuss. Some people use a mechanical devise instead of a friction hitch, but never both together, just not necessary.

Also the extra carabiner in the eye of the end of the rope is a bit overkill. If you are concerned about the end going through a pulley and a friction hitch, just put a keychain biner on it, that should be enough.

The gold carabiner on the other end needs to be secured more firmly, snug it up with a couple of cable ties, you are bound to get a branch or twig stuck in that big open eye sooner or later! Close it up.
 
I use a stopper knot. That carabiner is too hi-profile. Too easy to snag if left dangling. Looks like a long lanyard. How long is it? You can daisy-chain the extra tail/ standing end of the lanyard, clipping it to the biner, and onto the back of your harness.


How can you release your green-and-white hitch cord with that ascender under it? Get rid of that ascender. You can tend a distel hitch without a pulley, if you put the rope through the carabiner. The carabiner does the hitch tending.

VT with a pulley is better than a distel, especially without a pulley.
 
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  • #429
Ok, I think this will explain my idea, This is a secundary climbing line, that is only 20' so I will need to reposition it as I go up. The reason to have this second climbing line is to provide me with a way to climb the tree, dragging the Primary line up to the ancker point. Over all, is a extra safety. The carabiner will be atach to my 2nd saddle bridge. I will take a picture next time I get suit up.
 
Sorry, I'm overly confused. A unicender for a secondary tie in? I like gear but I climb with a wire core and my HH most of the time.
 
One climbing line, attached while you're working, with the Unicender. One DdRT lanyard. Done.

You should get some professional instructions at a school. You will be MUCH less likely to DIE.

Pete The Treeman Jenkins seems relatively close.

N.A.T.S.

S.T.A.R.R.S.
 
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  • #433
I got a wire core 12' long, with a Gibbs Klaimair flippline adjuster. The adjuster is one of the reason I got the 20' rope as 2nd climbing.
 
Something tells me it's not as simple as you think it is or as complicated as you're making it.
 
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Jose if you want a second tie in just use the tail of your rope bud. Way easier and cheaper.
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that will make three tie in points,that should be plenty piece of mind.
if you need more then that you probably should NOT be up in a tree.
 
Jose you don't need a second complete climbing system if you have your primary climb line and a reasonable length lanyard.
If you feel the need (which does happen from time to time) then as someone else suggested, use the other end of your main climbing line.
Or go up with your wire core as well.

I've done that. main climb line, adjustable rope lanyard, adjustable wire core lanyard.

Even if you use that set-up as a second system, you DON'T need the ascender AND the friction hitch. Replace the ascender with a micro pulley and use it either from a second bridge or off your side D's.
 
Jose, what happened to the remote anchor point with the basal tie? Did you try it out yet mate? Someone recommended a few pages back and it seemed like a perfect solution to your fs installation difficulties, just want to be sure that you actually noticed....
 
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  • #439
Been busy, going to my primary job, coming late, tier as you can imagine. Will try to set up and take pictures on Sunday.
 
I think your best bet is to get some climb time with a competent climber. You seem a bit anxious to get climbing and just throwing climbing components together willy-nilly. You need to know what the components are, their uses, their strengths and weaknesses.
 
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  • #441
Research is been done on the internet, tree stuff, you tube, arborist websites.... and positive guidance from few in this forum. I have been doing jobs on my own with no injuries to me or anyone else, no property damage, and happy customers. I think I am doing good. My only problem is finding someone that want to get trained to work with me, been that this is not a full time job sense I secure a full-time position at work.
 
I watch Dora, does that mean I can speak Spanish, without someone checking me? If you watched videos and did research, why did you set up that "system" the way you did? Trying to help you......
 
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  • #444
20160107_192914.jpg 20160107_191911.jpg 20160107_191919.jpg 20160107_193153.jpg
In picture 1 the climbing line, that supposed to be remotely install from the ground and the lineyard. Now if you look closely at picture two and three , you will see that the lineyard has a Gibb Kilmair rope grab. This grab has the particular property that if not loaded will let the lineyard slide loose or out. This will cost me to loose the support provide by the lineyard. Now if the climbing line have not been successfully installed  feom the ground I will or cut end loosing control of the climb. If a fall from 3' high I probably be fine. However if I fall from 50' the minimum injury will let me handicap.  Now if you look at picture 4, you will see that the use of the lineyard will no be a problem do to the use of the 20' climbing line with the rollnlock that will be attached to the harness.  This will prevent me from falling. Can you see it now.
 
In all your research did you see anything about loading up the minor axis of aluminum carabiners against a solid surface?
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qAwf7hqgRxc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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  • #447
That video, is about cutting, very informative, it it aome what, about the same use I am givin to the 20" climb line, difference is that I will use the line to anckor my self as I go up with my lineyard. Will use thw sliding knot for the trunk, until I get a better faster osolution. Got a Idea, will text it one of rhis days.
 
In all your research did you see anything about loading up the minor axis of aluminum carabiners against a solid surface?
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qAwf7hqgRxc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The sideways aluminum carabiner is a 'stopper' not an attachment, Peter.

Again, Jose, WTF is the RollnLock supposed to do that the green and white hitch cord isn't doing. GET RID OF THAT.


That is a much more coherent post. The extra time you put into writing and pictures in your posts will help you get more out of responses.

You need some instruction. I learned a lot about tree climbing from forums. I had 10+ years of significant rock climbing experience coming into trees. I didn't get into it from the ground.


When I started rock climbing, I thought about taking a professionally-provided, instructional class on building anchors/ rope systems/ climbing techniques. My friend talked me out of it. I learned all that I could by reading. It only probably took me 3 years to learn all the stuff I could have been shown in 1-2 days of paid training. I regret not having taken the classes. One broken foot, too. I almost hit the ground from 30-40' when "lead climbing", which is very different that 'top-rope' tree climbing.
 
Agreed, why do so many people try to do this stuff without instruction/training, to save a few bucks? I won't hand out any advice to ol' Jose, except for to pay for some training. Like Sean says 3 years to learn what he could have learnt in a few days on a course.
 
Sean, it seemed he was using aluminum biners to cinch the rope on the spar.

Jose.... whooo boy. Why do you want to anchor yourself, 3 times it seems, while moving or climbing? Proper technique will help you do that. Seems you enjoy learning the hard way.
 
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