Husqvarna 562xp

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #151
Can you get it at Walmart or Lowes / whatnot?

I see it for sale in the stihl and Husqvarna dealers around here. I used it in my weedwhacker one time because the husky dealer was closer to my house then any of my mixed gas jugs.
 
I need a 550 or a lightly used 346. I always thought those 346's were a blast. So small yet so capable. For limbing, they were great, IMO. I could walk down a fallen conifer with a 346 and make quick work of limbing with no big saw fatigue from twisting the saw side to side.
I just did a quick muffler mod on my 346 this morning, added a 2nd outlet 1/2" in diameter.
Put it to work in a poplar and couldn't believe how it powers up now. Totally different saw now

My 562 has some competition for attention now ha ha.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #154
Ive only used the 346 with a green gas cap. Don't know if that's the better of them or not. A buddy owns the saw and doesn't treat it very well and it has never had trouble. Well built in my opinion, like most all pro grade husqvarnas. Was there a comparable saw in the 2 series huskys? I know the 2 series saws weren't ultra high RPM saws but was there something close?
 
Ive only used the 346 with a green gas cap. Don't know if that's the better of them or not. A buddy owns the saw and doesn't treat it very well and it has never had trouble. Well built in my opinion, like most all pro grade husqvarnas. Was there a comparable saw in the 2 series huskys? I know the 2 series saws weren't ultra high RPM saws but was there something close?
Green gas cap means catylatic muffler which are stuffed up EPA saws
.There was a 242Xp back in the early 1990s that was a real rocket. 42cc, wee bit over 10 lbs PHO and specs were after breakin 15,500 rpm which was still rich for this little saw. Fined tuned over 16,000rpm could work 8 hour a day no problem.
One hot little saw with spec h.p. at 3.1
The newer 246XP with more c.c. had same 3.1 hp but about a 1000 r.p.m less.
 
I just did a quick muffler mod on my 346 this morning, added a 2nd outlet 1/2" in diameter.
Put it to work in a poplar and couldn't believe how it powers up now. Totally different saw now

My 562 has some competition for attention now ha ha.

Willard,
Was that an EPA muffler you modified... green cap 346?, or the grey cap 346?

And, do you find your 346 leaks bar oil? That's my only complaint about my 346xp.
 
Mines a grey cap non EPA saw. I find all saws l leak bar oil if you fill the tank right to the top . Oil expands as the powerhead still may be warm or any oil on the chain and in the bar groove will eventually run back down onto the floor.
 
True, just this one even keeping tank half-full I need to leave it on a clean bucket at night and it nearly empties itself.
Did you take any pics of the muffler mod you did?
 
Green cap is on E-tech version. Carb and muffler is not the same as regular.
Sometimes the green can is on regular saws too.

There is atleast 4 different mufflers on 346, and that is the old 45cc version. + a bunch of carbs...

Newer 50cc has 2-3 more...
 
242 was using 3 different cat mufflers, one ceramic much like those in cars, one like it but with metal and one "normal" cat muffler that is really just a hot plate in a can. This also had green and grey caps + the black on early ones.....
 
True, just this one even keeping tank half-full I need to leave it on a clean bucket at night and it nearly empties itself.
Did you take any pics of the muffler mod you did?
You may have a leak at the rubber gasket under the oil pump. Easy to check, just pull the clutch ,remove bar pad plate then the pump.
I'll see if I can take a pic later of my muffler mod when the wife and kids are in bed:D I'll give a descrition what I did....not rocket science
 
Seeing the 346's original exhaust outlet on top of the muffler flows to the front of the saw, I drilled the 2nd outlet so it also flows straight out from the front. Seeing I use this saw for some climbing jobs I don't want to melt holes in my expensive Pfanner saw pants with a side exit exhaust.

As my pics show it's as simple as it gets, just remove the muffler and drill a 1/2" hole right through the front cover. BTW these mufflers have their halves soldered together so you cant take them apart, but no need to because there is no baffles inside anyways, just a can.
Make sure you blow it out good with compressed air to get any loose steel filings out and scrap the hole with a knife or scraper in case any loose steel pieces are still hanging on.
As the 2nd pic shows if local laws call for a spark arrestor screen just slide another 346 screen between the bracket and muffler and screw in a self tapping screw to hold it in place. But if a screen is used I suggest to drill a 9/16" hole.

20140626_200249.jpg 20140626_200231.jpg
 
+1

I like my 201t a lot, but can I do something similar (easy, quick, cheap) to it to get a lil more oomph??
 
Thanks guys ,nothing fancy and very functional....anyone can do it.
Back in the day us loggers did an even simpler muffler mod. When we bought a new saw the first thing we did was poke about 6 holes in the front cover of the muffler with our screnchs . With this method there was no need to remove the muffler or worry about filings.
 
+1

I like my 201t a lot, but can I do something similar (easy, quick, cheap) to it to get a lil more oomph??

Cory I'm not familiar with the 201s but if I remember correctly some of the guys were just enlarging the existing outlet larger, then I heard about drilling a 2nd same size hole alongside it .
 
Cory I'm not familiar with the 201s but if I remember correctly some of the guys were just enlarging the existing outlet larger, then I heard about drilling a 2nd same size hole alongside it .

Cory: You've gotta do the timing advance thing (unless your 201 is after a certain date). Just pop off the flywheel and grind out the keyway so that you can rotate the whole thing back (counter-clockwise) about 10 degrees. Makes all the difference. Nah... ten is a bit too much: probably more like eight.
 
Um Jed, 'member that part about it had to be simple and quick….

I'd have to sub that job out...
 
Cory: You've gotta do the timing advance thing (unless your 201 is after a certain date). Just pop off the flywheel and grind out the keyway so that you can rotate the whole thing back (counter-clockwise) about 10 degrees. Makes all the difference. Nah... ten is a bit too much: probably more like eight.
No you don't grind out the keyway of the flywheel, you file the key thinner .
I think Corey has the upgraded 201 so wouldn't need it.
Muffler mod is what he needs
 
Yes, I think I have an upgraded 201 because it runs perfect, unlike my earlier 201s.

Muffler mod…….
 
I've had to buy some newer 201's too. They seem better. I'm still gonna have my 200's rebuilt and ported, but I had to spring for some new climber saws and a 461 to boot. So that slowed up my plans on the 200's.
 
Mines about 8 months old I think and it's in the shop because it started loosing all power and dying in the cut. I've searched and asked but haven't heard of anyone else having this problem

Got my saw back. They said the diaphragms were stretched, rebuilt the carb and new fuel filter. Can anyone tell me what likely caused this? I was in and out so I didn't ask them
 
Back
Top