MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I'd go to town and buy some new files.
How do you sharpen saw chain?
- Thread starter Jed
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sotc
Dormant hero!!
It's a husky, probably in the owner's manual
Tucker943
Bamboo Plantation Owner
I make a good living with huskys Willie. They give me far less shit than any stihl I've ever bought. 
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Husky isn't quite as proud of its parts. My local dealer used to handle just Husky but just recently picked up Sthil.
Tucker943
Bamboo Plantation Owner
80% of guys I know that knock huskys do it because they think that's what they're supposed to do. That comment is not directed at Willie.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Good old Husky shit in their mess kit about 15 years ago when they more or less told the local Stihl dealers us or them .Now there are no Huskys save Lowes or TSC locally .I'm a thinkin that power play didn't go so good for them .
sotc
Dormant hero!!
I do it cause it's fun and I run Stihl. Ride for the brand
Magnus
TreeHouser
This is dangerous and someone will get hurt doing this.
It is as safe as climbing with a 50 year old hamp rope from bales!
It is as safe as climbing with a 50 year old hamp rope from bales!
HolmenTree
Banned
Nothing new , I've done it myself as I have mentioned before. Quick way to bring the corners back on a pile of rocked out sawchain hanging on a nail in the shop.Just found this vid ... DOES ANYONE DO THIS?
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/aVPyV336Fnc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Only difference I have the b/c mounted in a bench vise, lock the chainbrake, gently grind the cutters to square corners , then finish each cutter with a round file to get the proper angles back. Make sure you blow the grit and filings off the chain after with a air gun.
I have at times carried a cordless 4 1/2" angle grinder in my trucks toolbox when land clearing on rocky ground with the 395-32" Husky. Not having compressed air in the field, I would clean the chain by running it at WOT for a few seconds, then for a few seconds cut thru some brush.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
For sure that would dress up a rocked chain quite and easily before giving the final sharp. What a clever idea. That's great!
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Those "Dremel " type stones aren't bad to save a rocked chain .I salvaged about a dozen of those hard Stihl chains from the tool boxes of Toms trucks this spring that his guys managed to rock out .Lawdy it would have taken me a month of Sundays with a file or rather a dozen files .
HolmenTree
Banned
Al the trouble with those dremil stones is they lose their diameter size quick and case harden the cutters, where a file can't touch later.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
Hand filing a rocked chain is a lesson in misery and agony. It got to the point I just tossed them. they are just not worth the time or pain. Literally.
But that hand grinder on the other hand might just work to relieve some of the pain.
When working for the phone company the line crew handed me a Homelite XL12 with a rocked chain. badly rocked chain and worn out bar. They used this saw to stub off poles below ground that were being abandon. Law was the poles were supposed to be pulled out of the ground completely and the hole filled in. Liability reasons, you know, but such was not the case in reality. least in the rural areas where I worked.
So the line crew handed me this Homelite XL12 with a badly rocked chain to sharpen. I told them I needed a file to sharpen it and they handed me a 10 flat mill bastard and said, "This is all there is."
Oh I sharpened that chain to cut a hundred times better than it ever cut before and the first pole they stubbed off with that chain it was right back where it was before.
From then on I told them to sharpen it themselves. Wasn't a lineman I ever knew that could sharpen a chain, but I'm sure there must be some out there.
But that hand grinder on the other hand might just work to relieve some of the pain.
When working for the phone company the line crew handed me a Homelite XL12 with a rocked chain. badly rocked chain and worn out bar. They used this saw to stub off poles below ground that were being abandon. Law was the poles were supposed to be pulled out of the ground completely and the hole filled in. Liability reasons, you know, but such was not the case in reality. least in the rural areas where I worked.
So the line crew handed me this Homelite XL12 with a badly rocked chain to sharpen. I told them I needed a file to sharpen it and they handed me a 10 flat mill bastard and said, "This is all there is."
Oh I sharpened that chain to cut a hundred times better than it ever cut before and the first pole they stubbed off with that chain it was right back where it was before.
From then on I told them to sharpen it themselves. Wasn't a lineman I ever knew that could sharpen a chain, but I'm sure there must be some out there.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
In Will Maloff's book on milling, he shows a bar mounted grinder similar to the larger stationary ones with a pivoting arm that holds the grinding wheel. Not sure what powers it, but it looks like a useful device. I think I looked into getting one but they were no longer being made available. Has anyone ever used one?
gf beranek
Old Schooler
I never heard of it, Jay.
Has anyone ever used one of those diamond cutting wheels? Supposed to outlast a stone they say. But then you can not dress them. Would seem to be out of the question for chisel chain. unless for very special application.
Has anyone ever used one of those diamond cutting wheels? Supposed to outlast a stone they say. But then you can not dress them. Would seem to be out of the question for chisel chain. unless for very special application.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I have one, Jerry. A guy I worked with bought a short reel of carbide tipped chain and the diamond wheel to sharpen it, and gave it to me to take care of his tools because he only had the proper use of one hand. He is retired and i still have it. With carbide it is essential, and though i have used it on regular chain, I don't really see a heck of a lot of advantage with it. It doesn't require dressing, that's about it. I have heard that using it on regular chain will reduce it's sharpening effectiveness, but i don't know if it is true. Rather expensive too.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
Those are the green wheels for carbide, Jay. the so-called diamond stones I was referring to are actually steel with a diamond coating that is supposed to replace a chain grinding stone. The are fluted for cooling. Odd looking things but touted to be something... better? I don't know.
Anybody ever use them?
Anybody ever use them?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
What I have isn't the green wheel, Jerry, it's a steel plate with diamonds embedded on the edge of the wheel in some kind of hard substrate. Perhaps the diamonds get rounded over or something, but it doesn't appear to wear. It also isn't fluted, so something different from what you are referring to.
flushcut
TreeHouser
If you are talking about the ABN wheels that Baileys's carries then yes I have. I have the two sizes for 3/8 and .325 pitch and I love them. The larger wheel I have had for I think 8 or 9 years and have ground a few hundred feet of chain with it so far and going strong. The smaller wheel I have only ground about a dozen or two short loops.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
The "green wheels " are silicon carbide .Actually soft in comparrison to a regular stone .You have those,impregmented diamonds and CBN wheels for carbide .
There's a trick to grinding any thing no matter what it is .You either run coolant or just don't bear down so long and hard as to raise the temperature of the metal .You get a better job if you can use some type coolant even water from a mist bottle .Not only does it cool the part but the fluid washs out the grinding tailings from the wheels .
Like a Dremel type stone .You don't sit there and whittle away at a tooth until turns blue .Just hit it a few light licks and work your way around until you "un rock " the damaged cutters a little at a time .Hit the whole thing with a file and you're good to go .
There's a trick to grinding any thing no matter what it is .You either run coolant or just don't bear down so long and hard as to raise the temperature of the metal .You get a better job if you can use some type coolant even water from a mist bottle .Not only does it cool the part but the fluid washs out the grinding tailings from the wheels .
Like a Dremel type stone .You don't sit there and whittle away at a tooth until turns blue .Just hit it a few light licks and work your way around until you "un rock " the damaged cutters a little at a time .Hit the whole thing with a file and you're good to go .
Maximalist
Ок
flushcut
TreeHouser
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
+1 Looks like a good height.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
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