friction savers

[Widow Shooter]

How many of you use a webbing sling with a tri-lock carabiner and a screw link hooked up??

I have a ton of web slings and was wondering how effective they are in this usage.

maybe not direct from the ground, but in the tree for getting your TIP higher?



thanks.

 

[brendonv]

I tried at one time. The webbing really flings around on the retrieval and get's wrapped around branches easier.

Presently I have a 3/8 static line with aluminum rings knotted on the ends. Rope stays pretty stiff, and makes for nice removal.

For whats it's worth, I don't use one 99% of the time. Something I'd like to change eventually as it really is nice using one.

I was thinking of getting some 3 strand and making them.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I do... Works fine as long as the screw link and sling is rated appropriately. I use them for climb line redirects also.

 

[lumberjack]

I've only used strap in a pinch. Last time I remember was 06 on a fun climb with my cousins.

 

[SkwerI]

Like Brendon, I've never been much for using a friction saver. But I've used webbing slings and carabiners for redirects and/or tie in points for many years. It all comes down to knowing and trusting every single individual link in your life support chain. Every time I'm on rope, every single link in the 'chain' is rated for 5k lbs or better.

 

[rangerdanger]

Never tried a set up like that before, but I have used a tri-act biner for a big ring before. To me, it seemed to get stuck a lot more than a large ring.

And like Skwerl and Brendon, I don't use mine 100% of the time. Usually the only time I'll use them are on pruning jobs, where I'm doing a lot of moving around, or on removals. If it's a quick up/down thing, I don't even bother with them usually.

And after attending the splicing symposium last March, I'm now able to splice any size FS I want, with aluminum rings, which is awesome! Presently I have a 30", 40", and an 8' ring/ring Friction Savers, with all of them fully adjustable with a seperate prussik loop with a small ring.

 

[NickfromWI]

If you do webbing as described, be ready for it to get stuck. That thin webbing likes to Indiana Jones itself in the tree.

Anything you can do to stiffen it up will help. Sewing it into an eye-eye will be a start. Putting another piece of webbing over it and sewing that will be even better.

Let us see what you come up with!

love
nick

 

[klimbinfool]

I use 16 strand with a small ring spliced in on one end and a eye on the other for a tri act biner. Usually no more than 16" in length. Stream lined and has worked great for years. Easy to make


Why are you using the screw link ?

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Easy to work in line with the tri act I imagine. Don't have to untie and tie in ..

 

[sotc]

I would venture to say it's for a small ring to retreive it

 

[CurSedVoyce]

It replaces the the small ring... Yes.

 

[Blinky]

I use friction savers pretty often but mine are ring and ring with 16 strand rope.

 

[klimbinfool]

ok, I understand using the link on FC as the smaller side, but i'm seeing no advantage over a smaller ring, especially if he is using a biner on the other side.I used to use a link to pull out the FC 12 years ago, but it sounds as though he is using it as part of the FC. Maybe if he reads this he can shed some light on the what he's doing.

Blinky, Use a HMS style biner for the large ring on your 16 strand FC and you 'll save a tone of time in setting your rings from the ground. If you set them from the ground.

 

[Widow Shooter]

Exactly, I'm doing it ala' the tree climbers companion, Jeff writes about it in the uses for web slings.

the smaller screw link is being used the same as the small ring on a manufactured F-saver... i just got in from trying it out in one of my trees, works pretty darn well and if you use the throwline to retrieve it, it does not stick

 

[klimbinfool]

heres what I make up and have used for about 10 years now.Last one is pulling rings out.

 

[No_Bivy]

aluminum....now Im skeered............................just kidding

 

[Gord]

Mine are cheap and easy, velocity or whatever small diameter climb line, triple scaffold onto large ring, and a stitched sling girth hitched onto a small ring then tied in a klemheist so it's adjustable, stopper knot in the end. Very compact. I keep meaning to take a pic, basically the same as the ones AFC sherrill sells but cheaper and more compact.

 

[klimbinfool]

Yep, I use that also Gord. The ones I make like that are about 8 to 10 feet long and typically I use it on the stem when I'm neg. blocking.

 

[pantheraba]

Greg,

Excellent sequence of pictures to explain how to set that FS...thanks for taking the time.

 

[klimbinfool]

Wecome Panther

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Greg,

Excellent sequence of pictures to explain how to set that FS...thanks for taking the time.

(and removed).

i think it is best to not have too tight a bight, to place less strain on the line at the bight. So, too small a small 'ring' would place more force on the bight. Also, smaller 'ring' should not be able to inset inside larger in use, for the same (t)reason.

Some, spoke previously of using this for lowering loads. This, can place more loading and impacting on that tight bight etc.; and change the mechanics from a closed system to an open one...

Caution too, that 'Friction Saver' is a misnomer, in that it still takes the same amount of friction, to provide the same amount of braking force(s). So, friction is saved at one point alright, but just to be reapportioned to anther point of system to provide the same friction/braking force- like moving the friction from the TIP to your friction hitch-that already is heating up from it's frictions it provides. So, now frictions and their heat is more concentrated, with no break in between (that 2 points of friction-TIP and hitch provide) to dissipate some buildup in heat before more friction/heat added. So, should go slower, and watch for more glazing of tail.

The accusations of flat rope/webbing are true here; but, on a non moving bight (like 'friction saver' sitting still on it's bight, carrying sliding load on it's own bight) flat is better (for the friction saver sitting still ,not the rope sliding thru), in that there is less 'height'/bent dimension to be leveraged at the bend around the support. In larger stuff this effect is negligible, but in smaller more exaggerated. So, maybe something inbetween webbing and round would be best for these occasions, like Tenex(?).

 

[OTGBOSTON]

I've been using the tube style FS from new tribe. I'm kinda suprised they aren't used more often.....

 

[DMc]

Greg, I know these are quite popular for rec climbers and they look like an improvement over the leather tubes. How do they hold up in when used heavily in our line of work?

Dave

 

[rumination]

Mine are cheap and easy, velocity or whatever small diameter climb line, triple scaffold onto large ring, and a stitched sling girth hitched onto a small ring then tied in a klemheist so it's adjustable, stopper knot in the end. Very compact. I keep meaning to take a pic, basically the same as the ones AFC sherrill sells but cheaper and more compact.

Mine is about the same, except that I actually went to the trouble of splicing the large ring onto the line. I couldn't believe how much Sherrill charges for theirs.

 

[OTGBOSTON]

Greg, I know these are quite popular for rec climbers and they look like an improvement over the leather tubes. How do they hold up in when used heavily in our line of work?

Dave

I'm not a full time climber, but the one I have must have at least 100 climbs on it.