Cutting question(idea from Gerry's DVD set)

[rangerdanger]

I'm curious about a few cuts I've seen in Gerry's rigging preview video. I believe he says they are cut to release the wood almost instantly.

I'm curious what kind of cut that is, and how it is performed. I had a big cherry branch that that would have worked perfectly on today.

 

[rangerdanger]

Here it is.

Around 1:34 or so.

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[PCTREE]

I havent seen the video series yet but a snap cut would work. Undercut the limb as far as you can without getting your saw stuck ( have fun with that) and then top cut a few inches past it, cut fast with sharp saw. once the 2 cuts overlap the grain will "snap" and release the limb..... Try this out out in a field or somewhere with no targets first....

 

[PCTREE]

OK just watched it, Wow Gerry makes some cool movies! That isnt a snap cut he was just making an undercut as I explained and then matching his top cut to it, same kinda deal. Probably that way is less likely to snatch your saw. Ranger dont try this on big limbs with a lot of weight out far as it will get goofy on ya

 

[CurSedVoyce]

 

[NeTree]

If you haven't tried it already Adrian, practice making "snap" cuts that hold; where you can put the saw down and the overlappinug grain holds the piece in place until you grab it and snap it off.

 

[MasterBlaster]

After I go as deep as I can with the undercut, I like to cut the sides as much as possible. Then, I come down on top and SNAP!

TCOB!

 

[SkwerI]

On big limbs, I learned the hard way to make my top cut slightly behind the undercut. This prevents the 'saw snatchers'. :roll:

Butch's method of nipping the sides will also help prevent saw snatchers.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I do more than "nip."

 

[Bodean]

Drop cut.

It's a good one to know.

They can put direction on the piece also, left or right if the two sides of the two cuts don't meet flush at the same time.

Good advice to practice snap cuts where the pieces stay put and you snatch it and toss it where you want it.
In my little opinion, I think piecing out trees safely is a fundamental.

 

[Old Monkey]

If you get a pine tree with nothing to worry about underneath, try to make all all the butt ends face toward where they are going to dragged to. Its a fun game and goo practice. Utilize the snap cut as the guys have described, hinged cuts and cuts where you cut straight down from the top and let the tear out on the bottom swing the branch and then cut and release it. The advanced version of this game involves making ready stacked brush piles for people to drag out.

 

[klimbinfool]

Butch, the pines trees in your area have a tremendous amount of holding wood. Sniping the corners is almost a must sometimes even when falling a tree. Similar to our Grey Pines out here.

Some of those Gerry put in a face but, from the looks of it he was doing jump cuts in order to get the limbs to land flat.Same can be occomplished with reeming and back chaining to the top of the limb if it's big enough.

Of course I could be all wrong here on what Gerry is doing here, but I'm sure he will chyme in.

Greg

 

[Old Monkey]

Would that be cutting up from the bottom, letting the kerf close, boring back in and cutting up through the top?

 

[klimbinfool]

Thats Correct Darin.

 

[Old Monkey]

Do I get a gold star for my climbing helmet?

 

[sotc]

 

[Old Monkey]

Thanks Willie, I feel more specialer now.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Ranger, it would behoove you to get Jerry's book. The various cuts are explained and diagramed in clear detail.

 

[NeTree]

 

[gf beranek]

To hinge, or not to hinge. That is the question.

First it becomes a matter of understanding the properties of what you're dealing with. As each species is different and either dependable or not,,, depending on the cuts you choose to execute on them.

I have found that most pines, not all, exhibit good fiber characteristics and holding qualities. So hinge and directional cuts work fairly well and dependably when trying to swing their limbs. Redwood, fir, alder don't swing worth a crap. But you can bet with a good deep undercut they'll pop off the stem nice and clean. Whereas the pine limbs can often pull wood and end up hinging when you want to pop them off clean. Thus the reason why sap cuts are often needed to ensure a pine limb comes off clean. Cypress is very straight grained and splits out like a mofo if you don't understand well.

The reason old timers success rates with their cuts is higher than the novice is because they know more about the properties of what their dealing with, and just know more where they can get away with things.

The names of cuts are a lot like the names of knots, both become endless fodder for argument.

Jump cut, ream cut, drop cut, face cut, bender cut, hinge cut, pop cut, level cut, salami cut, snap cut. I talk about all these in the Series Two dvd, and describe how they are made and supposed to work and the most common reasons for why either one may fail. The success rates, risks and cautions.

Cutting in the tree is serious doo doo.

 

[rangerdanger]

Thanks guys!!! I have a ton of Pines to do today(just pruning mostly) but I'll still experiment a bit with some different cuts on them.

And I will definitly read Gerry's book!! We have 2 copies actually, and I've paged through them before, but I've never really read any one chapter through all the way.

Looking forward to the Series 2 DVD set also Gerry!!

 

[FJR]

Way cool stuff here. Field experience and understanding different species characteristics will help you along tremendously. When I use a snap cut on a Burr Oak the reaction is much different as opposed to using a snap cut on a Silver Maple. Different steps may be required for different species.

Be safe and good luck with your experimenting today RD.

 

[gf beranek]

I've never cut a Burr Oak. So I'd probably have to learn how by starting small and working up to a little be larger gradually to get the feel of how the fiber holds.

The wood fiber in Black Acacia is notorious for pulling in most cuts and has been a species with high failure rates.

What little Silver Maple we have here is introduced. I haven't cut a single one since I lived in Ft. Bragg, but in Santa Rosa there was a lot. Straight grained in the young stems and splittly stuff as I recall. Never cut an older one though. I'm sure it would be different.

 

[Burnham]

To hinge, or not to hinge. That is the question.

First it becomes a matter of understanding the properties of what you're dealing with. As each species is different and either dependable or not,,, depending on the cuts you choose to execute on them.

I have found that most pines, not all, exhibit good fiber characteristics and holding qualities. So hinge and directional cuts work fairly well and dependably when trying to swing their limbs. Redwood, fir, alder don't swing worth a crap. But you can bet with a good deep undercut they'll pop off the stem nice and clean. Whereas the pine limbs can often pull wood and end up hinging when you want to pop them off clean. Thus the reason why sap cuts are often needed to ensure a pine limb comes off clean. Cypress is very straight grained and splits out like a mofo if you don't understand well.

The reason old timers success rates with their cuts is higher than the novice is because they know more about the properties of what their dealing with, and just know more where they can get away with things.

The names of cuts are a lot like the names of knots, both become endless fodder for argument.

Jump cut, ream cut, drop cut, face cut, bender cut, hinge cut, pop cut, level cut, salami cut, snap cut. I talk about all these in the Series Two dvd, and describe how they are made and supposed to work and the most common reasons for why either one may fail. The success rates, risks and cautions.

Cutting in the tree is serious doo doo.

Great post, Jerry.

 

[woodworkingboy]

You mention Black Acacia, Jerry. It is a rather confounding wood, hard, but both strong and weak. It splits very easily, get a tenon too tight and it pops right now , but also can be rather fibrous and stringy strong, with excellent ability to bend without breaking. I suspect that is what causes the pull that you mention. It doesn't seem to hold much water when it's green, unseasoned firewood burns pretty easily. An odd wood, it grows all over the place here, but particularly seems to like river bank locations. Grows like a weed, and cut down a stand and leave the stumps, and in a couple years you're back where you started.