Grove AT635E

Paul, sandbags with plates to level out the outriggers on the high side of the slope, and cribbage on the lower side if needed, would have been a good way to do it, imo. I've seen it done that way so many times...always. Just yesterday again. Often cribbage is put on top of the plate after it is levelled. It may be a personal philosophy rather than some hard fast rule, but I can't remember ever seeing crane outriggers set down directly on much of an angle, without first levelling out. Talking about really really experienced ops that do trees as their business.
 
Did it bend the pads on outriggers? We have damaged a few on soft ground. We cut flat spot first....yard damage is easy to fix. I remember one pad cost like 800!

Have you two parted your line yet. It doesn't take long to do.....should bump winch cap way up.
 
I was speaking with an experienced operator (forty years) today about having the outriggers on a slope, enquiring about the need to have the plates on a flat area. He told me that cranes can slip easier than one might think, especially on the snow. Having a flat base for the plate to be a matter of habit, he suggested.
 
Again, I know very little about crane set up. What's the story on how one outrigger extended more than the other affects the crane, if at all. My guess is that if the footing is solid, it's a matter using the chart for the shorter outrigger. I don't know if it would torque the crane in a funny way.
 
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  • #385
WE have a chart fort outriggers only half jacked. To be honest when I setup I was only going to work over the house side and the back so wasn't too worried about that. As it turned out I ended up being able to load the logs over the lines so should have spent more time on the shabby setup
 
Paul, are these yours?
15a10a69dd475d39f2851cc549a388e3.jpg

I can't figure out how you got that crane down there let alone back out! And lifting over the high lines? Careful you don't drag the brass ones across them!
Sure could've used your rig this week, we have trees down everywhere!
 
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  • #387
Todays job, homeowner didn't realize the tree had been dead for years as it was "totally green" (with poison ivy). Very tall and crispy, made us swing the jib but other than that put up little resistance.

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
 
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  • #390
We have 90' of stick and the jib is 25, all starts at 10' so we have about 125' and that's without the 15' stinger pulled out. Never done that yet.

I must say I am very comfortable running this crane now and it is amazing how quick we bang out jobs. We had some small take downs behind the house to do first and didn't start the poplar till 9, we rolled out at 1. Felt like I should have lined something else up.
 
Does that leave the ground guy overloaded at all? We do crane work with 3 plus the operator and we are all usually busy. Just wondering how it works with 3
 
When I've worked the ground doing crane jobs, a good cutter upstairs total three man crew including the operator, busy is the word, especially with heavy limbed conifers. The challenge is interesting, and a job to catch up if you fall behind. Sometimes hardly time to gas up.
 
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  • #396
As you could see there wasn't much brush and our 4th guy is scared of poison. This job was fine with 3 but bear in mind we feed the chipper with the wheel loader. If we have multiple trees I now shoot to have 4 of us,

Did a $1200 dead oak this morning with just 2 of us as I new we could bang it out in about 2 hours, climber has to come down after every pick to feed chipper but it was only 6 picks......
 
Hey Paul, now that you're in the big league doin crane removals?

I highly recommend an extremely close scrutiny of the type of hook you use, bearing in mind that this is tree biz, not construction etc.

Does your current hook have a positive locking gate latch, can it bear the entire weight of the ball if it gets upended busting through a thick canopy without gate failure? Remember, if it can happen, it will happen.

This is the best hook for use in this biz IMO.

http://www.thecrosbygroup.com/Portals/0/docs/NewProducts/s3326.pdf

Work safe mate.

Jomo
 
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  • #399
Jomo, I have that hook on my knuckle boom and we all hate it! Sure is secure though. Not sure how it is that much of a safety concern as we tie in to a friction saver above the ball

Thanks Mick, I enjoy tree work again!!
 
I'm familiar with the Crosby type hook on some lifting chains we use. I lanyard directly into the hook a lot, a standard spring loaded gate type. I do see an added safety factor with the Crosby, also the added inconvenience.
 
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