Wooden couch

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bonner1040

Nick from Ohio
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VERY NICE! I tried to make a chair out of a stump once, I failed miserably! It's oddly harder than one would think, so to pull that off, I'm very impressed!
 
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  • #9
Thanks everyone! I started with a 460 and 201 but the 460 wouldnt stay running more than 20 seconds... I switched it out for a 660 with a 20" bar and then after I got the big block (foot rest) out I was making a plunge and the sprocket disintegrated and fell out of the saw in 3 pieces. I finished it off with the 201, which was a chore.

After planing and sanding it the best I could the client informed me that while she was happy, she was disappointed that it wasnt 100% square with NO bypass. I am not sure who set up her expectations, but I tried to explain that with a chainsaw sunk 20" into a log, that the process wasnt exactly 'surgical'.

I was really pleased with how it came out, especially since it was my first attempt at anything like this, and I only had one shot.

I timelapsed the whole thing with some helmet cam footage, when I get it edited I will put it up.
 
Some kind of depth stop on your bar length could have helped with the over cutting, such can be rigged up. With the irregular surface, you still have to freehand guesstimate part of it, I believe. You sanded green wood? :|:
 
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  • #11
I drilled a hole in the bar and used a nut and bolt as a depth gauge for the first cut, but I fried my bit and couldnt get a second whole dug. Either way the bypass was pretty minor IMO. The customer plans to fill the 'gouges' with putty and then seal the whole thing. Its her couch, so whatever she wants to do is fine by me.

Yes I sanded it, but it wasnt 'exactly' green. It died last year and we cut it down 3 months ago, it was oak wilt.
 
Putty....yuck! I think exposed to the elements it will eventually shrink and look bad (putty), the wood further drying will help cause that. It is what it is, live and enjoy... As you say, though, her couch.
 
Thanks everyone! I started with a 460 and 201 but the 460 wouldnt stay running more than 20 seconds... I switched it out for a 660 with a 20" bar and then after I got the big block (foot rest) out I was making a plunge and the sprocket disintegrated and fell out of the saw in 3 pieces. I finished it off with the 201, which was a chore.

After planing and sanding it the best I could the client informed me that while she was happy, she was disappointed that it wasnt 100% square with NO bypass. I am not sure who set up her expectations, but I tried to explain that with a chainsaw sunk 20" into a log, that the process wasnt exactly 'surgical'.

I was really pleased with how it came out, especially since it was my first attempt at anything like this, and I only had one shot.

I timelapsed the whole thing with some helmet cam footage, when I get it edited I will put it up.

Man oh man Bonner, the tasks that DAVEY throws at you guys. And the lady was willing to pay for it, Cool! Of course they send you out, after all...

All Greats can adjust to adverse situations.

An old Great once told me that 'having the aptitude for doing the job is what really counts'

I figure that's true today as it ever was, especially in this case where you only get one shot... at least you have it on vid!
 
Looks good. You may have to invest in some chainsaw carving tools and attachments. And a broad ax an a rounded adze.
Word gets out you will be even busier. :)
One of those chain saw powered planers would be useful. . A hand adze like what the Tlinget or Hiada (KilenKet, HI Dah ) totem carvers use leaver a nice finish and the stroke of the adze blade helped seal the pores of the wood. They are easy to make, the hand adzes.
 
Amputations of human flesh can respond similarly...most folks think a traumatic amputation means exsanguinating hemmorhage...not necessarily so. Many traumatic amputations do not bleed excessively.
 
The old way of saying it is, it helps to seal the pores of the wood. And provides a smoother surface for the water to run off.
That's why hewn railroad ties last longer than sawn ties when they made them from natural , non treated wood.
 
I think that I would suggest to amend that to say sharp more easily controlled cutting tools as opposed to specifically adzing. Done a lot of adzing through the years, still how I rough out my chair seats. I'd be interested how a sharp adze seals wood any more than a plane or any other cutting instrument, at least to any degree that would preserve the wood longer than other means of cutting. The swinging action is different with an adze. You do find that cutting cleaves the grain as opposed to crushing it when sanding, why when the wood gets wet the grain fuzzes up less than on a sanded surface. Good adzing isn't pounding the grain, it is cleaving it like the actions of a chisel, Adzing with or across the grain leaves an entirely different effect on the surface. Across the grain or against the direction of the run, tears out to some degree. The reason that they have cap irons on planes is to prevent that or try to keep it minor. Hacking at something like with a chainsaw might leave a lot more indentures that collect water, and tear out which leaves weakened fibers. Technique would be a factor.

Hewn wood follows the grain and leaves stronger material, but straight grained wood that is cut in a way that follows the grain has a similar effect. With cross or end grain exposed, the wood wants to more suck up water through the exposed pores, plus weaker to begin with. Adzing leaves a nice effect on the surface when done well, but that bench with all the corners and vertical surfaces would be a tough piece to adze. If you got a big tear out running into a corner wouldn't be pretty, probably have to adze across the grain to prevent that. A big gouge chisel would leave a cool effect and more easily controlled, if the customer wanted to pay. Tap tap tap for a long day or two.
 
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