Husky 540 cutting and climbing

RegC

RegC

TreeHouser
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Messages
2,261
Location
Victoria, BC
Put some footage together from mondays job running and working consistently, for those who might be considering a purchase. Thanks

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CMED3nhemUc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
SouthSoundTree said:
I'm confused, what are those gray things on your hands? Never seen them before, and on a dry day. Are you converting?
Click to expand...

No, Ive just been sick Sean. Just helps with the aches and pains until I get better. I do use glove if Im sawing on the ground too, for the vibrations.
 
Sorry to hear. Hope you're over it now.

I forget to put smilies in when I'm joking around. Hopefully being from over there, you understood the attempt at dry humor.
 
the 540 sure does like to cut wood.
a couple of potential weak points are rear av spring (can be a bit too flexible for the more heavy handed users), and the chainbrake mount. there is a hardly used 540 on my local dealers shelf that took a hit to the chainbrake, broke the clutch side mounting = new crankcase (half the price of a new saw).

good watch as ever reg, happy cutting
 
good informative video Reg!...keep the vids rolling.

Please promise us if you dont like it make a vid of you driving over it...;);)
 
My 540 is running good now since the warranty work on the intake boot/neck. My seat of the pants tells me that it isn't as fast as my freshly rebuilt 200. Just doesn't rev as quick or as fast it seems. The 540 cut a lot of elm today though and ran well the whole time.

As mentioned earlier I'm concerned over the durability. I can easily bottom out the anti vibe. The fancy looks of it I hope prove to be durable, not weak. I can bust up a climbing saw like a 200 pretty easily, the 540 seems delicate in comparison but so far so good.
 
Another good and informative video! I just made a small donation to this site then saw this video you posted. I instantly got a return on investing in The TreeHouse. Cutting and flipping those limbs so they face the same way is something that will help my production! Secondly having a fast cutting top handle is critical when removing huge tops like in your videos. I cut a lot of Lobloly pines here which are usually 80'-100' on average. I am using Stihl MS 192's as my top handle with 14" bar which work pretty good for most of the trees I do. I am in need of an upgrade however so the 540 maybe my next top handle. Keep us posted on how it continues to hold up for ya. Thanks!
 
Nice Vid, When you are blocking down did you notice your right hand getting a fair amount of exhaust hitting it from between the chassis and the chain brake cover?
 
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  • #15
mrdiesel said:
Nice Vid, When you are blocking down did you notice your right hand getting a fair amount of exhaust hitting it from between the chassis and the chain brake cover?
Click to expand...
no I've never noticed that. Thanks.
 
Nice vid, Reg. That saw cuts like a beaver on meth. I will be interested to see its durability, and will honestly be surprised if it is still doing well after a year or so, cuz it is related to the 335s and 338s. But for your sake, hopefully it will meet or exceed the standard set by the 0200.

How is the air cleaner system on it; does it get dirty quick and is it easy to clean?

In the vid, those were some huge pieces imo to be mismatch cutting. It works well for you obviously but is there a point when you would saw a face and back cut instead of mismatching, while still in wood sized for a 16" bar?

It didn't look like you left any stubs on your way up, can you rapelle somehow, in case of emergency?
 
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  • #18
cory said:
Nice vid, Reg. That saw cuts like a beaver on meth. I will be interested to see its durability, and will honestly be surprised if it is still doing well after a year or so, cuz it is related to the 335s and 338s. But for your sake, hopefully it will meet or exceed the standard set by the 0200.

How is the air cleaner system on it; does it get dirty quick and is it easy to clean?

In the vid, those were some huge pieces imo to be mismatch cutting. It works well for you obviously but is there a point when you would saw a face and back cut instead of mismatching, while still in wood sized for a 16" bar?

It didn't look like you left any stubs on your way up, can you rapelle somehow, in case of emergency?
Click to expand...
very little dust on the filter Cory.

I'll stop mismatching the cuts if they get too wide, tall and heavy, are leaning or I need better accuracy. You know I'm not a big guy Cory so it clearly didn't take a huge a mount of strength to get those chunks off. But phycologically I think people see things different up a tree than when they're stood on the ground. Would you thing twice about breaking off a 10/12 ft log if you we're stood on the ground Cory ? Probably not is my guess. So what's the difference ? So long as theres no favor and the trees not swaying its generally pretty safe if you're careful. FWIW I generally make the front cut the deepest so the log leans away from me as I then make the back one.

I can choke the climbline at any time and rappell single lined if need be. Never had to yet mind.
 
RegC said:
very little dust on the filter Cory.
Click to expand...
That's a good sign.

I'll stop mismatching the cuts if they get too wide, tall and heavy, are leaning or I need better accuracy. You know I'm not a big guy Cory so it clearly didn't take a huge a mount of strength to get those chunks off. But phycologically I am think people see things different up a tree than when they're stood on the ground. Would you thing twice about breaking off a 10/12 ft log if you we're stood on the ground Cory ? Probably not is my guess. So what's the difference ?
Click to expand...
That is an excellent analogy, but a big difference re pushing that sized piece on the ground is you would be pushing about 5' up from the cut instead about 2' up when in the tree, so there is more leverage.
So long as theres no favor and the trees not swaying its generally pretty safe if you're careful. FWIW I generally make the front cut the deepest so the log leans away from me as I then make the back one.
Click to expand...
Sawing some lean into it with the first cut is an excellent idea to make it easier and safer. I saw lean into things often but never clearly thought of it re mismatch cuts, thank you for the insight!

I can choke the climbline at any time and rappell single lined if need be. Never had to yet mind.
Click to expand...

If you had to do that, what would your source of friction be, munter?
 
I use single line as well on the pines here. That is what I really like about the HH except when I get too much pitch on it and jams up. I purchased a Petzl Pirahna for rappelling out but have been using the HH instead. What are using Reg?
 
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  • #24
cory said:
That's a good sign.


That is an excellent analogy, but a big difference re pushing that sized piece on the ground is you would be pushing about 5' up from the cut instead about 2' up when in the tree, so there is more leverage.

Sawing some lean into it with the first cut is an excellent idea to make it easier and safer. I saw lean into things often but never clearly thought of it re mismatch cuts, thank you for the insight!



If you had to do that, what would your source of friction be, munter?
Click to expand...

Sure there's more leverage Cory, but if you envisage stood on the ground and making the cut at just above waste height and then pushing the log over....probably you'd do it one handed even? Trust me its not much harder up a tree. Watch Scott at 0.15 in the video. He's a bigger, stronger dude than me mind:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/_RptmK0R4mg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I usually have the RopeWrench or HH on my saddle somewhere....if needed. But if not and in an emergency, you can always run the line through your feet in a footlock formation which frees up the hitch and makes it function-able singled line....same principle as the hitch-hiker.

For ClimbMiT also-
You see I rarely have the climbline line choked when Im brushing out a tree on the way up, or chunking down there after. I set the climb-line as DdRt to the centre D, so it backs up my flip-line as a failsafe, and its much easier to move up and down than set as a choker. Or I'll just use two fliplines and hang the climb-line on the back of my saddle. To be honest I tend to focus thoughts and energy on getting the tree-down without error, as opposed to that of worrying about what could go wrong.
 
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