High temp anti-sieze compound?

[Burnham]

I'm in need of recommendations for a high temperature anti-seize product.

My new Hearthstone woodstove is wonderful, with one exception...after sweeping the flue, the only way to clear the creosote and ash swept down to the top of the upper baffle is to remove the top body panel. This piece is sealed with stove gasket, like the door, rather than stove cement, like the rest of the body panels, and has four bolts that come out to allow this.

Stove body can easily exceed 600 degrees F., though it usually runs a bit less.

I swept the flue twice a year with the old Jotul stove, and it seems I might need to do it even more often with this new stove. So I want to make it as easy as possible. There's a plethora of choices of these products...anyone have good experience with a particular one?

 

[NeTree]

LocTite C5-A. We use it on steel furnaces at 2000 degrees.

 

[Al Smith]

Never seez pure nickle but it cost-a- plenty .It's good for 2400 degress ,cost about 30 bucks a can .http://www.neverseezproducts.com/neverseez.htm?gclid=COyJ-aqigK4CFSURNAods1dk5A

 

[Burnham]

It'll never see that high a temp, maybe 900 max. I don't really mind $30 a can, but if it doesn't need to be that spendy, all the better.

Does this sort of stuff last well in the can?

 

[NeTree]

The C5-A is about $7 for a bottle with a brush cap. Either one will last about forever.

 

[Al Smith]

I'd go for 7 bucks before I'd spring for 30 .Al the tightwad .

 

[Burnham]

Sounds good to me. Hardware store, auto parts place, or elsewhere?

 

[Reddog]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Anti-Seize-Compound-4KM71?Pid=search

Grainger has a location in Portland Or.

 

[NeTree]

McMaster-Carr is where I buy it. Shouldn't be hard to source locally at a hardware store.

If you strike out, let me know; I'll send you some.

 

[Burnham]

Thanks, Erik...and Al, too.

 

[woodworkingboy]

By stove gasket, are you referring to the rope like fiber gasket? You want to glue that down?

 

[Burnham]

Yes, like that...and no, I want to make sure that the bolts that hold the top panel down and seal against the gasket remain easy to take off and put back on, 'cause I see myself doing it alot over the years to come.

I was just explaining about the gasket because it seems like you're taking the body of the stove apart, but not really...it's designed to come apart and be reattached by virtue of having the gasket instead of stove cement.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Gotcha, In the event that the gasket itself needs to be replaced, they are available in different diameters, with an adhesive designed to adhere them. The one around the inside of my stove door thins out and gets brittle and flaky and loses it's effectiveness after some years, and gets replaced. About due currently.

 

[Burnham]

Yes, I expect to have to replace it occasionally. I think less often than the door...after all, you probably wouldn't need to redo the door gasket all that frequently if you only opened it a half dozen times a year, I'm thinking.

 

[woodworkingboy]

With this hellish winter and a cold shop, I must open the door thirty or forty times daily to check on things, including my lunch. It is starting to get old and only just Feb. A slave to the stove, basically.

 

[Burnham]

Keep it stoked up, Jay!

 

[Al Smith]

I do a lot of McMaster Carr stuff myself .

On that gasket cement ,glue whatever -stick -em I think it has sodium silicate in it .Basically the same stuff you buy at auto parts stores to do half -fast repairs on leaky mufflers and tail pipes .

I've used the Lopi insert every since we moved here and never replaced the gasketing .Maybe reglued it 2 or 3 times in 14-15 years .Still looks good .

Fact I looked it up the other day on the Lopi archives .1982 model lx