Full vs Skip chain

  • Thread starter Thread starter brendonv
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I've never/ wouldn't do it. Too short, still.

And don't forget semi-skip, which I'd prefer... but not for 20.
 
I think it would depend on cc of saw. I have a friend that likes 20" 3/8 on his 49cc saw. So I do up full skip chains for him and he loves it.

I can show you a video of mine testing full comp against full skip both square and the full skip was cutting faster in the 23" spruce. Now granted the full comp was new with 1 fresh square sharpen and the full skip was about 30%to40% wore down with fresh sharpen. woods ported 066 was used for testing. I know full comp should be faster in the cut but it wasnt that day in my testing.
 
Willard will have valuable input...there was another thread a while back where this was talked about a good bit.
 
Was it Willard that recommended semi-skip? I have been meaning to try that for a while now.

I have a 361 with 20" full skip and a 361 with 18" full chisel. The full chisel cuts faster, but I like that I can sharpen the full skip faster. Each has their pros and cons it seams.
 
Doug Dent has been recommending semi skip for 6-7 years now. I still run full skip-full chisel, myself...everything but the 200's.
 
I've been running full skip for about 2 years now on all my bigger saws (24"-32". Husky 372 & 395). Last week I grabbed an old chain off a hook in the shop and it was a full comp chain which I had refurbished after hitting rocks or metal or something. I didn't have any new chains made up so I threw it on the saw and went to work. I can tell it was slightly smoother in the cut but I don't think it was any faster. I realize it's a subjective opinion but in reality I cannot see where there would be enough difference in speed for any normal person to notice.
 
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  • #10
I'm understanding from my readings of past posts, that a full skip just won't take a hit from a rock or object as well as a full comp chain will.
 
I would think full-skip on such a short bar would vibrate like hell.
 
I have run nothing but full skip for years on my big saws. Would never even consider going back to the old junk. I have no problem making bore cuts FWIW. My preference probably stems from my inherent laziness, who wouldn't want to take 1/2 the time to sharpen a chain????
 
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What size bars, Paul.

I run a few 20", 25", 28", 32", and 36".

Mostly the 20s and 25 though.

I'm at the end of my Stihl reel. I'm tired of sharpening full comp, to be honest.
 
I don't have trouble boring either, Paul. Just because something is more difficult doesn't mean you and I can't do it just fine, eh?
:D
 
I am buying a roll of Oregon here soon. Last few chains I got from the saw shop were oregon. They have done extremely well. Now can one find a better deal than 325$ for a 100' roll??
 
What's wrong with Oregon. I've had good luck with it. As far as your question, the full comp stuff cuts fast and good. But why not try the other stuff just to see how it compares. Plus, you have your money back guarantee from Brian;)
 
I'm pretty happy with some new styled Oregon chain I recently purchased. 3/8 lo pro with longer cutters. Not as hard steel as Stihl, but it works.
 
Does Oregon stretch a lot more than Stihl over the lifespan? I believe Stihl is "prestretched" or something, but don't know about Oregon. We have Oregon at Parks, and it always seems to stretch a lot more than the Stihl I use personally. I use canola on my own jobs and at Parks, so that's pretty equal.
 
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