Ash tree central rigging

[flashover604]

Hi all. I've got a client that has several dead and dying ash trees. There are eight in close quarters to each other and one larger one in the center of all of these. (22" diameter vs. 8"-16"). The larger one had half its leaves a couple weeks ago. The others were either leaf-less or had less than half their leaves. What I'd LIKE to do is set a block higher in the central large tree and swing the tops of the other smaller trees to it, which would be away from me on a lift. Do you guys agree with this? I'd take the limbs out of the central tree before rigging to it to avoid and dead branches falling when the limb hits. I'm also concerned about the rigging rope being damaged between the limb or spar section being rigged and the central anchor tree.

Thanks in advance.

Zach

 

[SeanKroll]

The initial loading of the'gin pole' rigging tree will be toward the tree from which is cut. Beware bad roots and large loads.

 

[flashover604]

That makes perfect sense. How would you assess the roots prior to loading? Also, assuming the gin pole tree is stable, what would be a normal acceptable sized chunk of dry ash 8-10" diameter? I'll be using the treestuff standard rigging kit with a Tenex Loopie to a CMI arborists block with a porta wrap at the gin pole. I'll be using stable braid 1/2" rigging rope.

Thanks again. I'm trying to be productive, but safe.

 

[SeanKroll]

Consider true blue for elasticity it dynamically rigging heavy pieces/ have a good roper. You can also guy line the tree, as an insurance policy. That's where i'd want a more static rope.

Dig them up. Drill with 1/4-1/2" drill bit. Look for/ feel for/ smell for decay. Consider the fiber quality.

 

[Page]

Are there lots of obstacles? If I can't drop a tree I will lower it whole. If I can't do that I'll climb. I agree with using rope with more stretch. Digging and drilling roots seems ubiquitous. With ash I'm usually more worried about the tops breaking out. Dry and brittle. Be safe!

 

[flashover604]

These are all around the same size. They're around 55' tall. I can't drop them due to surrounding landscaping and I don't think I can lower them whole due to a lack of healthy trees that I trust to take the weight of the full tree. Dismantling seems like my only viable option, but that's why I'm here. You guys know better than I do! These are dry and brittle. Another reason I'm taking the limbs off first. Most had no leaves at all a month ago when healthy ashes were still fully leafed out. There's a road 200 yards northwest is fully Ash lined and treated. It was odd seeing that many healthy ash trees. Probably 100-150 fully leafed out Ashes.

 

[Altissimus]

Use a control line so pieces don't pendelum wildly towards the block. Drift line rigging.

 

[Altissimus]

... before using this method , we tripped Bigs and Heavies that really swung. I have damaged Rope , Hardware , and Slings from the smash. Customers really like watching us drift line , can land the work slowly under control ...

 

[flashover604]

Do you run the drift line through a friction device or just get a couple guys on it to hold it?

 

[Altissimus]

Climber on the second line , some friction yes. Most of the weight is on the lowering line. Often need less Diameter and Length for control line.

 

[flashover604]

Thanks for the drift line advice. It's working great. Three down so far. Lunch time now.

 

[pantheraba]

You are a beast! Slow and steady.

 

[flashover604]

Two were smaller. We got four done today plus a 35' spar that we topped and limbed yesterday. The drift line worked great.

 

[candoarms]

I'm also in favor of using a control line....or drift line. A small portawrap works well, but a munter hitch on a rigging carabiner will also serve the purpose.

Joel

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Drift line is smooth and effective.
We used two friction devises with a man on each so I could just rig and cut. Nice when the gin pole line can be drawn back to you as well.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RCEbKTtpM1k" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[murphy4trees]

if you put a redirect block at 20+ feet in the spar then you can stand back and put the lowering device well away from the drop zone.. Let em smash if that will work. if there aren't valuable obstacles that could get damaged. DOn't worry about the rope if its true blue... don't mess with the butt line unless you need to

 

[pantheraba]

That was some good work to watch, Stephen. A belayed tag line...worked a treat! Gave me another trick for the bag...thanks.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

YVW Gary. Nice when you can vector the load as well with the two lines. Letting both lines run (since we had height) really lessened the stress on the rigging points as well. Sharing the load when slowed.