200t hesitating at top end full load
- Thread starter Bermy
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SkwerI
Treehouser
I'm going to guess it's running slightly lean, I'd open up the H jet slightly.
The L jet also contributes about 25% of the fuel at WOT so you can richen the low end slightly as well, as long as it still idles and accelerates properly.
The L jet also contributes about 25% of the fuel at WOT so you can richen the low end slightly as well, as long as it still idles and accelerates properly.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
After six years I think I might want to replace the carb diaphragms too. It may not be the direct cause, but cheap and it can't hurt. You can do it yourself, Fiona, easy peasy.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
As I've mentioned before I think the problems people have blamed on the carbs of the 200T are really just leaky seals .
They start out by slowly loosing power in a long power run then get worse as time goes on until about 10 or so seconds into a cut they fall off fast .Let them cool off a little and they are fine for a short while .
I first discovered this after changing out a crankcase on one of Toms' 020T .The bearings had developed a lot of side play which heated the seals .I knocked his original crankcase apart and swapped out the bearings and seals and the problem went away .
My souped up 200T got real bad ,lots of slop .I have purchased the new seals and bearings just haven't had the time to change them .Really not too bad considering ,about 65 bucks .
Pull the recoil and clutch guard on that thing .If it's got say more than 1/16-1/8" side slop I'd say thats what the problem is .
As soon as I have time I'll change them out which is relatively easy and I'll take pictures and make a thread .
If that's is the problem and you want to attempt it I'd imagine Stihl parts in Bermuda would be quadruple what they are state side .Just speak up one of us will mail the parts to you .
In the mean time keep cranking out on the high speed jet so you don't fry the piston .
They start out by slowly loosing power in a long power run then get worse as time goes on until about 10 or so seconds into a cut they fall off fast .Let them cool off a little and they are fine for a short while .
I first discovered this after changing out a crankcase on one of Toms' 020T .The bearings had developed a lot of side play which heated the seals .I knocked his original crankcase apart and swapped out the bearings and seals and the problem went away .
My souped up 200T got real bad ,lots of slop .I have purchased the new seals and bearings just haven't had the time to change them .Really not too bad considering ,about 65 bucks .
Pull the recoil and clutch guard on that thing .If it's got say more than 1/16-1/8" side slop I'd say thats what the problem is .
As soon as I have time I'll change them out which is relatively easy and I'll take pictures and make a thread .
If that's is the problem and you want to attempt it I'd imagine Stihl parts in Bermuda would be quadruple what they are state side .Just speak up one of us will mail the parts to you .
In the mean time keep cranking out on the high speed jet so you don't fry the piston .
pete mctree
Treehouser
I would change the fuel filter ifnot been done recently, then richen the fuel mix (turn the H screw out a little). As Brian said, it does sound like it's running a little lean at the top end.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #6
All sounds very plausible and within my skill set thank you gents!
I'll check the filter and richen it up a bit and see how it goes.
Al that side slop you are talking about,do I take the clutch off and check underneath or just wigggle the clutch once the recoil starter is off?
Might need to change the sprocket anyway...
I'll check the filter and richen it up a bit and see how it goes.
Al that side slop you are talking about,do I take the clutch off and check underneath or just wigggle the clutch once the recoil starter is off?
Might need to change the sprocket anyway...
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Just wiggle the flywheel and clutch to see how much it moves side ways .
HolmenTree
Banned
Do all the advice above Fi,
To bad my MS200 wasn't in your hands before you left for Bermuda, you could retire that 200T as a parts saw for your inventory.
To bad my MS200 wasn't in your hands before you left for Bermuda, you could retire that 200T as a parts saw for your inventory.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Well now if you have one it's soon to be if not already the most sought after trim saw of all times since they stopped making them .
Fact Tom stopped out the other night and retrieved his 020T I went through .Seems he has one of his 200T's not acting right and rather than cook it ,it will come out for a once over .It's better to take them put of service than to run them until they cook themselves .The price for a new OEM cylinder and piston almost exceeds the price an older saw is worth .
As of yet you can find just about any part on flea bay for these things except a cylinder and piston .If somebody came out with an aftermarket kit they could sell them like hot cakes .I'd hate to guess how many died on the vine from a fried top end .
Fact Tom stopped out the other night and retrieved his 020T I went through .Seems he has one of his 200T's not acting right and rather than cook it ,it will come out for a once over .It's better to take them put of service than to run them until they cook themselves .The price for a new OEM cylinder and piston almost exceeds the price an older saw is worth .
As of yet you can find just about any part on flea bay for these things except a cylinder and piston .If somebody came out with an aftermarket kit they could sell them like hot cakes .I'd hate to guess how many died on the vine from a fried top end .
HolmenTree
Banned
I couldn't have said it better Al, I already miss that little MS200 but am doing fine with the Husky 338. My muffler mod is hard on my safety pants though, just burnt another hole yesterday
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
And it looks like I need to pick up a 2139T for Kat. This last 200 I bought has been nuttin but a PITA. Looks like a new carb time and it's barely a year old. Already put a fresh set of rings in as well just to make a point to the dealer that he is FOS and can't analyze a saw for shat.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Steve, rings are fine, you're most likely correct on the carb. Send the old one to Al so he can rebuild it, seeing as how he's constantly saying how easy they are to rebuild. I've had minimal luck rebuilding the carbs in the 200T. Or if you have another saw you can swap carbs to verify your diagnosis before shelling out the dollars.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Well I've never dealt with the accelerater pump type carbs they put on the later ones so I don't really don't know how much of a pain in the azz they can be .The regular Zama C1Q's aren't that big of a deal .
On carbs maybe I'm lucky or something but I've never had much problem with a saw carb .Now something like an updraft Marvel Scheubler on a tractor or a GMC quadrajet I don't do so good at .
Well if you can't get of course you can send it to me .I can't make any promises how fast I can get it back because of working 12 hour days and more or less being up to my azz in alligators on other things but I'll do the best I can .
On carbs maybe I'm lucky or something but I've never had much problem with a saw carb .Now something like an updraft Marvel Scheubler on a tractor or a GMC quadrajet I don't do so good at .
Well if you can't get of course you can send it to me .I can't make any promises how fast I can get it back because of working 12 hour days and more or less being up to my azz in alligators on other things but I'll do the best I can .
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Yeah Brian, the rings were fine. I did it just to prove a point. Just happened to have a piston and ring kit sitting in the shop so I swapped it out and took it back to the shop after break in just to prove my point. I felt like being an Ahole just like I feel today. I think I have about bit everyones head off 'round here about equipment 'cept the kids. Sometimes you have to remind peope whats what and who's who.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #15
Hey Willard, your saw is just happy in Tasmania...I'd rather have it there as the backup for the 020!
At least here I can get help for this one...tweaked the jets a bit and it seems to have helped, but I won't know for sure until I bury it deep...nothing on the books just yet.
Working on mahogany at the moment and thats pretty soft, and the largest limbs are only about 8-10".
At least here I can get help for this one...tweaked the jets a bit and it seems to have helped, but I won't know for sure until I bury it deep...nothing on the books just yet.
Working on mahogany at the moment and thats pretty soft, and the largest limbs are only about 8-10".
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
HolmenTree
Banned
That's good to hear Fi, I can't wait to hear how you like it.
That mahogany sounds interesting to work in. It's wood is very poplar here in Canada used in home mouldings, trim, interior doors. Beautiful grain. But yes is soft and marks easily. Almost smells like cedar when you cut it.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #18
We have the west indian one, Swietenia mahogani (spelling suspect)
It has a sweet smell when you cut it, the sap is a bit sticky, and the bark peels easily, you have to undercut well to prevent tears.
Young ones are VERY branchy, multiple leads...
INterestingly, working on the last one, it was full of deadwood in the interior, as I was clearing it out it kind of looked like it was being liontailed...long branches, lots of foliage at the ends, interior branches and twigs shaded out.
Hmmm, time to transfer this to the Tropical tree thread...
It has a sweet smell when you cut it, the sap is a bit sticky, and the bark peels easily, you have to undercut well to prevent tears.
Young ones are VERY branchy, multiple leads...
INterestingly, working on the last one, it was full of deadwood in the interior, as I was clearing it out it kind of looked like it was being liontailed...long branches, lots of foliage at the ends, interior branches and twigs shaded out.
Hmmm, time to transfer this to the Tropical tree thread...
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
More on this business .I took the time today to change out the main bearings and seals on the super bee my souped up 200T .
I split the saw and it actually took me about 2 hours but I noticed a little something .While the thing had about 1/8" or more side slop the design of the seals kind of took me aback .They were not a form lipped seal but rather just had a seal lip that was formed after you installed the seals as the lip folded over .
In all the years of working on things I'd never seen a design exactly like that .Now with new crankshaft bearings the little saw probabley has less than 20 thou side slop now .I however think a person could just install new seals which could be done rather easily rather than replace the bearings and if nothing else gain some time ,maybe even fix a leak long term if there is one .The old seals were stiff as a bone while the new ones were nice and supple .
These things are less than 10 bucks each stateside OEM with after market at about 1/2 price .Cheap fix for what would be a 600 dollar saw if they made a new one which they don't .
On the saw after I got it back together I took it down through 2 cuts buried in 20" oak .No leak .If that wouldn't have heated it up I have no idea would could have short of a trip through a pizza oven .
I split the saw and it actually took me about 2 hours but I noticed a little something .While the thing had about 1/8" or more side slop the design of the seals kind of took me aback .They were not a form lipped seal but rather just had a seal lip that was formed after you installed the seals as the lip folded over .
In all the years of working on things I'd never seen a design exactly like that .Now with new crankshaft bearings the little saw probabley has less than 20 thou side slop now .I however think a person could just install new seals which could be done rather easily rather than replace the bearings and if nothing else gain some time ,maybe even fix a leak long term if there is one .The old seals were stiff as a bone while the new ones were nice and supple .
These things are less than 10 bucks each stateside OEM with after market at about 1/2 price .Cheap fix for what would be a 600 dollar saw if they made a new one which they don't .
On the saw after I got it back together I took it down through 2 cuts buried in 20" oak .No leak .If that wouldn't have heated it up I have no idea would could have short of a trip through a pizza oven .
