Search results for query: *

Try putting your back cut below the notch on those hard back leaners. It keeps you from ripping it off the hinge. I believe I learned that from reading Gerry’s book

Just one of many today. I got called because they needed a bigger bar. I almost used my 20” on it to prove a point but they had grabbed the 500 with a 36” out of my box and carried it over. Was rushing so it’s not perfect but it was in the center of an open field ( basically).

Hinge is nice and even. Maybe a little high on the far side but the very far corner was nipped😆. it’s the House’s fault I can pick out small discrepancies on a near perfect hinge. You all turned me into what I am today. 😎

Nipped the corner off on the far side😎

Stig I remember a video with you in it. I might have been mentioned. Ended with not bad for a Swedish chef if I recall😆😎

I get that but are they actually teaching them how to use the sights both ways? Most guys I come across who claim experience don’t even know what those lines on the saw are. Teaching “noobs” is teaching the basics. I get that as well. I’ve bitten my tongue at plenty of training courses that say...

Sorry. I just know. I don’t need to see the chain make the cut. I make my base, then the top angled cut. Angle will vary for what I need but it ends up right first try. I don’t think I’m racist but maybe I am. I won’t drink tequila because once you let one Mexican in you invite the whole damn...

Sorry. In my inebriated state I can not remember the word that @BeerGeek used to describe me. Basically I’m not the norm. I’m the one that goes against that. Basically I screw up the “mean” Edit. Took a few minutes. I’m the anomaly

If I do top cut first I’ll just say it, the notch is proper fooked. I’ve tried. Do my flat first and I don’t let off the throttle or even really need to look and can match the angled cut. All how one is taught. Very seldom do I have to adjust because I miss. When I do I quickly blame it on...

It’s 90+*F here this week and I will say my chainsaw pants are hot as hell. Not that I’ve had an incident but I still have my legs. I can deal with heat if I can still walk in the very slim chance oh shit happens.

Locust Daniel? If so very prone to splitting

Only pic of the day Daniel. I cut off some water sprouts so it still had that last little bit of life in it. The fibers were moist. They seem to have a distinct smell at that stage as well. Can’t describe it but I know it

Hard leaning ( to the left) dead ash from today. A conventional notch with a gap on the tension side and bore cut low in the back for stacking wedges. Worked great. Was able to keep everything out of the stream.

Cory the plate or shim gives you a flat lift for the wedge. Just adding 3/8 or 1/2” of height with the same angle of taper. If you place one wedge on top of another wedge you double the angle of the taper making it harder to drive. Also they like to spit out that way. At least from my experience.

Two is normally plenty here as well Stig. I might just cut up a cutting board today for shims. I like that belt. Been eyeballing one from weaver leather recently. Need to see it up close though. Does yours have a place to stow your axe?

Another one from yesterday. Nothing special Had a slight internal Dutchman though

I’ll recommend only using two wedges with the bore stack method. Every time I’ve used three ( like that pic) it hasn’t worked well. Either something is jamming up the wedges from driving properly or I’m biting off more than I can chew.

Crude drawing but Wedges labeled one get beat into depth. Wedges labeled two get a shim and wedge after ones have opened the kerf enough. If needed after the twos are full depth, remove the ones and stack a pair of shims and a wedge in there place In my pic of the bored wedges they are...

Second set of wedges after the kerf has opened from the first set

After I bottom out or bury the first set of wedges, I’d put a shim in for the next set to rest on. Hoping to not spit them back out like when I set two wedges together.