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No explanation will help. You have frigged up my mind forever with that mental picture.:lol:

That mental picture of you all hot and creamy will see me into 2016 just fine, Justin. Thanks:D

They do here, for sure. It is interesting to see how having socialized medicine leads to rules about safety gear, such as chainsaw resistant pants/Chaps, seatbelts and helmets for motorcycles. For the simple reason, that when those, who by nature are too dumb to use it, get hurt, we all help...

Boring horizontally will most certainly not increase flexibility! Didn't you make this mistake once before:P Thanks for bumping those threads BTW. Seems like the ones you start always blossom into great discussions. Makes for a good re-read.

Gransfors makes a 3,2 kilos "maul" that is the closest thing to the old DSI hammer I use, that you can get today. It is nice that there still is a place, where they forge axes and stuff the way they did, when grandpa was a kid. www.gransfors.com

So now you'll have the same sort of special relationship to your wedge driver as I have to mine, Burnham.

Here we run into the beforementioned regional differences again. We don't stack wedges, we stack steelplates under the wedges( this has been covered in another thread), I've just started trying out nylon plates to cut down on weight, since I'm not getting any younger. Also almost everybody...

yep, it's 30 inches long and the head is shaped like a maul.

The energy a given object (hammer!) hits with increases proportionally with the increase in weight, but squared to the increase in speed. That is a formula that any martial artist or reloader should know. In short, use a light hammer and some speed for the best result. Burnham, in my neck of...

Yes, Jerry and Burnham there are other options. A 5 pound DSI ( Danish Steel Industry) hammer is one of them. They stopped making this wonderful hammer about 25 years ago, but one can still find them at fleamarkets and garagesales. Every new apprentice I get go on a quest to find one, once they...

I'd rather use a saw with a 24 inch bar( which by the way is considered long here, but I fall a lot of the big stuff) and make 5 cuts, than have to carry a saw with a 40 inch bar all day! We get fined for leaving the stumps too high too. Also for splitting logs and scraping the bark of standing...

My experience with the bore cut is that it will prevent a too thich hinge from splitting the log, by adding flex to the hinge. It'll also make the hinge last longer before breaking, again because it adds flexibility. Over the years of experiencing with this cut,I've found that on most hardwood...

Burnham, we always make the "German" or bore cut on the downside of the undercut. Have you tried the hardhead wedges, the plastic wedges with a steel insert for driving. I find they beat anything else for sheer lifting power( except a jack, of course!) They were totally unknown here until I...

I've used that cut for years on virtually all trees that we pull in. I just don't use it on a humboldt but on a convenyional one. We just refer to it as a vertical cut, for obvious reasons or A German, for less obvious reasons. I don't even know why it's called that. Invented by a german...

Burnham, it is always nice to see guys our age, who are still going strong. Nice pics. Especially the ones of the ponderosa pine.